This is a tutorial based on technique and spray tanning application. It is not the only method there is but for those who may need some extra help you may find this useful. It is the method I use and have been using for a few years now and it has only brought me success. I hope you find it helpful. For the purpose of this tutorial I use a HVLP and have never done airbrush tanning but theoretically the method ought to be the same regardless of machine.

At all stages of the tan we are working at a distance of between 4 and 6 inches between mist applicator/gun and body. This is generally the distance from the gun to the end of your wrist so that’s how close you need to be to your client.

Starting at the back of the body

Start spraying the body directly over one shoulder and down the full length of the back in careful and even vertical strokes to the top of the knicker line while slightly overlapping each “stripe” of colour guide.

Tip: If the client has chosen not to wear pants, or is wearing a thong, cover to the top of the bum, where the knicker line would be when you do the back, and then the bum cheeks as you go down the back of the legs.

Cover the whole back this way and when you get to the other shoulder, re-cover the area in the same method only quicker so as to give more of a light mist (not a full second coat)

This ensures a more even tan.

Back of the arms

With your client standing with their arms by their sides, ensure there palms are facing in towards their thighs.

Spray from top of the arm to the wrist, this bit tends to take 2 “stripes” sometimes 3 depending on size of surface area you are spraying.

There is no need to do a second mist on the arms as we will be going over the arms again further on.

Do this on both arms obviously!

Back of the legs

Start just slightly over the bottom of knicker line and work your way down towards the ankle, slightly overlapping each “stripe” of guide colour as you did on the back. Picturing the legs as having 3 “stripes” of colour, inner stripe, middle and outer stripe, as opposed to having 3 solid stripes stopping at the ankle, imagine an upside down Y shape at the bottom of the ankle, so for the inner stripe pull out to the left and the outer stripe pull out to the right. I have a diagram for this which may help you visualise the 'Y' technique, please PM me.

Once you have gone from one side of the leg to the other go back over the leg using the same method with a light mist, as we did on the back, still making the Y shape at the ankles.

I hasten to add there can be more than 3 stripes I was only referring to 3 to explain the Y theory! You can do as many as you need so long as you Y off as described above at the ankles and don’t overspray.

HANDY POINTER
Remember to keep the mist applicator/gun upright all the way down the legs; there is a tendency to want to tilt your wrist down when you get to the ankle. Bear in mind this will make the distance between mist applicator and skin increase when it needs to be consistent to ensure an even tan

Side of the body

Get your clients to do a quarter turn so they are standing with their side facing you

Lift the clients arm so it’s slightly away from the body and spray from top of the shoulder and down in slightly overlapping stripes, going off at a Y at the wrists (in the same way as described with the legs) and when finished go back over with a very quick lighter mist again.

Turn the arm over so the palm is facing upright, and cover the inner arm just the same as the outer arm, Y off and give a very light second mist.
Now get the client to lift there arm in the air, above their head, bringing the hand and wrist out of the tent if needed, if you ask them to stretch the arm back slightly as to open the arm pit area (tell them it’s like doing the Y out of the YMCA except with one arm!)

Now from the hip spray up in slightly overlapping stripes, stopping just at the base of the armpit, going back to give a light second mist.

Now lightly (you can pull the mist applicator/gun back slightly if needed) lightly mist the arm pit, only ONCE for this area. Then spray over any bits of inner arm that remain white, using exactly the same method as we have previously.

Inspect fully to ensure even coverage.

Leaving the arm in the air, spray from the hip down towards the ankle maintaining the Y theory and 2nd light mist again.

Tip: While you do this with the arm in the air it allows the arm pit area to fully dry, being a crevice area this part of the body is harder to dry but by the time the leg is done it will be dry and the client can put their arm back down and can then shimmey round to the opposite side, you then repeat the process.

Front of body

Before starting to spray a lady (or larger man!) ask your client to lift their arms in the air and lean back slightly so you can spray under the bust/Pectorals first by spraying lightly in a ‘sweeping’ motion from side to side.

Tip: Larger ladies may need/want to lift the bust completely they can do this by lifting under the bust and up with the palms of their hands while you spray lightly. It is imperative you remember to put the mist applicator/gun down to wipe the client’s palms and fingertips after this.

Now for the chest area we need to imagine a bikini is being worn (if it actually is all the better!) and spray over each breast/Pectoral spraying the shape of each cup of the imaginary bikini top, same method overlapping and a second mist on each breast/Pectoral.

Tip: The area in the middle will be covered later.

To cover the abdomen, starting at the top of the knicker line and working up towards the bust releasing the trigger as you get under the breast/Pectoral, cover the entire abdomen and go back and give a light second mist.

To cover the front of the legs, start at the bottom of the knicker line and work down the leg to the ankle, in overlapping stripes and Y off at the ankles, cover a second light mist as previously described.

For the inner legs get the client to stand with their foot at a 90 degree angle (keeping their hips facing forward), turning their leg outwards and keeping their knee slightly bent, spray this area only once and there is generally only about 2 stripes here. Repeat the entire process for the opposite leg.

The Face

Ask your client to close their eyes, spray up and down from the bottom of the neck up over the ears and so forth until you are at the opposite side, holding their breath, when you say, as you cover the nose and mouth.

Stop and let your client breathe a second then spray a further light mist.

Tip: The face is the area that tends to concern the client the most so before spraying the face stop and fully explain how you are going to do it. Remind them not to scrunch their eyes, nose or mouth as this could create creases affecting the evenness of the tan. Explain that you will tell them to breathe in at the right time, you can even blow the air from the mist applicator/gun over the clients face to give them an idea of how it will feel. As you work over the ears keep talking through the process and when you reach the cheek bones say “don’t breath in now” /”hold now” and work quickly over the nose and mouth, continually talking them through it.

Example:“ok Mrs X keep your eyes shut, going up over your ears, up over your cheek, don’t breathe in now, ok breath now, going over your next cheek and over the ear now, relax for a second Mrs X and remember to breathe!!”

Hands

Finally I always finish with the hands, you can either pull your mist applicator/gun back a bit, or turn down the control flow, working in quick light mists, pinkie to wrist release, and so forth until you get to the thumb. Alternatively you can pull back the mist applicator/gun and provide a light mist to the relaxed (naturally curved) hand.

Wipe palms and nails on hands and feet and you’re done. The client should be dry enough now to get dressed.


This may seem an exhaustive technique but once done a few times it becomes very routine. It takes me about 10 minutes to do a spray tan. Plus 5 for consultation, however I book out half an hour in my diary to air on the side of caution.

Please also refer to my Tanning Hints and Tips Tutorial.

Happy Tanning Geeks

Tonilee