Meanderings and musing of a Geek
Bigger is not better
I just found time to read through the latest issue of Scratch magazine (Sept 07) when I came across Marian Newman's article titled 'Is the professional industry listening to the market?'. My interpretation of the article was that enhancement services are becoming less desirable while natural nail services are becoming more in demand. Knowing Marian, I am aware that this wasn't exactly what she was getting at, instead I believe that she was trying to challenge more professionals to be more pro-active in natural nail care (which is a very important part of any professionals skill set). Regardless, I thought a slightly different take on the matter would make for an interesting blog addition 
The natural nail market is bigger than enhancements
Marians article is a 'wake up call' to technicians to put more emphasis on natural nail care (mainly manicuring) as the market is 'naturally' larger and covers a larger demographic than nail enhancements. Marian is correct in the her points that consumers are rapidly getting over the 'wag' look. Many consumers are indeed getting tired the 'extreme' look (long, cheap, artificial looking enhancements made with French tips and/or deep smile lines that damn near touch the lunula). However in no way does that mean that the market for nail enhancements is diminishing.
Marian points out the recent survey completed by The Guild magazine for 2006-2007. Specifically:
I am told that The Guild has the largest circulation rate in the UK of beauty therapists. Their nail centric readers are only a tiny fraction of their circulation (and thus, their survey-ship). In my eyes, these figures are a reflection of the increasing division between the nail and beauty industry. More nail professionals are becoming dedicated to nail only services and fewer beauty therapists are focusing on enhancements. This is a very good thing and in no way indicative of the state of the industry. Imagine if Scratch were to do the same survey of its reader base? Virtually all would be doing manicures and enhancements while little to none would be increasing their holistic therapy offerings.
The Associate Nails survey is a little more relative as it appears to be a consumer sampling. However I really do not know the geographic sampling or size, what questions were asked and for what purpose. Since Associate Nails are a distributor, it is impossible to say that this is an accurate sampling of the marketplace. However in this case I feel that the figures are pretty relative to the real world:
This figure makes sense even without historical surveys to refer to in order to determine which services are on the rise and which are on the fall. Personally I would lay money that as a percentage, more women are having enhancements now than 3 years ago.
The natural difference
The higher rate of manicure interest is natural. More women are going to have manicures than enhancements. Manicures are quick, easy, require little to no commitment and can be done at home if in a pinch (many women look at a manicure as 'a paint job').
The problem with this from a professional viewpoint is that the natural nail care market is extremely saturated and extremely transient. Consumers having manicure services come and go and therefore make it more of a challenge for nail professionals to build a strong client base out of manicures alone (look at how many 'nail bars' focusing on mainly natural nail care have come and gone over the past 8 years).
Enhancements are another story as they require consumer commitment. Like having hair colour, consumers must commit to regular visits and costs to maintain the service. This key reason is why enhancement consumers are so much easier to build a client base from - but at the same time one of the biggest reasons why the market is more limited than manicures: Consumers must be able to budget time and money to the service. Regardless, a client committing to enhancements will on average visit the salon more often and spend more money than an average manicure client.
Socio-Perspective
The socioeconomics of the marketplace will also have a big impact on how certain geographic areas respond to nail services. Large metropolitan areas with a high cost of living (i.e. London, New York, LA, etc...) have substantially fewer women having regular nail enhancement treatments. This is really down to the fact that there are fewer quality enhancement specialists per capita in these areas. This doesn't mean there are not highly skilled professionals in these locations - it means that as a ratio of public to professional, there are fewer than in other areas of the world. Why? The amount of time and commitment it takes to build your skill set enough to make a good living in these high-cost-of-living metropolitan spots equate to fewer professionals developing their skill set enough to meet the needs of these markets. This in turn affects the consumers perceptions that live in these areas. For instance, since most beauty editors live and work in London or New York (the 2 areas lower in quality enhancement specialists per capita) really only see naff nails. These editors are far too manic to budget the time for hour long appointments every couple of weeks and more importantly, they don't have the time to 'risk' finding the quality enhancement specialists.
So does that mean that the beauty editors are wrong about consumers being tired of the wag look? Actually, I think they are pretty accurate there. While professionals are enamoured with their ability to continue to push their smile lines deeper and deeper (not to mention nails with tropical sunsets or 3D flowers), Consumers are moving to professionals that can make their enhancements beautiful and natural.
Enhancements are not becoming less popular... it is just that the consumer demand for more natural and beautiful enhancements are growing!
An enhanced opportunity
A 'glass is half full' kind of person will identify this as a fantastic opportunity to turn transient manicure clients into higher income generating enhancement clients! This is simple to do with the focus on developing your skill set accordingly. Ditch the time spent trying to learn how to reproduce your favourite scene from 'The Sound of Music' on a pinkie nail and instead invest it into refining your custom blending, application and finishing techniques. Then revisit your marketing strategy to speak to those traditionally wanting manicures.
nJoy
The natural nail market is bigger than enhancements
Marians article is a 'wake up call' to technicians to put more emphasis on natural nail care (mainly manicuring) as the market is 'naturally' larger and covers a larger demographic than nail enhancements. Marian is correct in the her points that consumers are rapidly getting over the 'wag' look. Many consumers are indeed getting tired the 'extreme' look (long, cheap, artificial looking enhancements made with French tips and/or deep smile lines that damn near touch the lunula). However in no way does that mean that the market for nail enhancements is diminishing.
Marian points out the recent survey completed by The Guild magazine for 2006-2007. Specifically:
- Availability of manicure services has remained the same: 71%
- Availability of pedicures has increased from 71% to 72%
- Availability of extensions dropped from 42% to 38%
- Most popular service is manicuring at 18%
- Extensions are only offered at 7% of those in survey
I am told that The Guild has the largest circulation rate in the UK of beauty therapists. Their nail centric readers are only a tiny fraction of their circulation (and thus, their survey-ship). In my eyes, these figures are a reflection of the increasing division between the nail and beauty industry. More nail professionals are becoming dedicated to nail only services and fewer beauty therapists are focusing on enhancements. This is a very good thing and in no way indicative of the state of the industry. Imagine if Scratch were to do the same survey of its reader base? Virtually all would be doing manicures and enhancements while little to none would be increasing their holistic therapy offerings.
The Associate Nails survey is a little more relative as it appears to be a consumer sampling. However I really do not know the geographic sampling or size, what questions were asked and for what purpose. Since Associate Nails are a distributor, it is impossible to say that this is an accurate sampling of the marketplace. However in this case I feel that the figures are pretty relative to the real world:
- 22% claimed they had a manicure or pedicure more than once a year
- 11% had enhancements more than once a year.
This figure makes sense even without historical surveys to refer to in order to determine which services are on the rise and which are on the fall. Personally I would lay money that as a percentage, more women are having enhancements now than 3 years ago.
The natural difference
The higher rate of manicure interest is natural. More women are going to have manicures than enhancements. Manicures are quick, easy, require little to no commitment and can be done at home if in a pinch (many women look at a manicure as 'a paint job').
The problem with this from a professional viewpoint is that the natural nail care market is extremely saturated and extremely transient. Consumers having manicure services come and go and therefore make it more of a challenge for nail professionals to build a strong client base out of manicures alone (look at how many 'nail bars' focusing on mainly natural nail care have come and gone over the past 8 years).
Enhancements are another story as they require consumer commitment. Like having hair colour, consumers must commit to regular visits and costs to maintain the service. This key reason is why enhancement consumers are so much easier to build a client base from - but at the same time one of the biggest reasons why the market is more limited than manicures: Consumers must be able to budget time and money to the service. Regardless, a client committing to enhancements will on average visit the salon more often and spend more money than an average manicure client.
Socio-Perspective
The socioeconomics of the marketplace will also have a big impact on how certain geographic areas respond to nail services. Large metropolitan areas with a high cost of living (i.e. London, New York, LA, etc...) have substantially fewer women having regular nail enhancement treatments. This is really down to the fact that there are fewer quality enhancement specialists per capita in these areas. This doesn't mean there are not highly skilled professionals in these locations - it means that as a ratio of public to professional, there are fewer than in other areas of the world. Why? The amount of time and commitment it takes to build your skill set enough to make a good living in these high-cost-of-living metropolitan spots equate to fewer professionals developing their skill set enough to meet the needs of these markets. This in turn affects the consumers perceptions that live in these areas. For instance, since most beauty editors live and work in London or New York (the 2 areas lower in quality enhancement specialists per capita) really only see naff nails. These editors are far too manic to budget the time for hour long appointments every couple of weeks and more importantly, they don't have the time to 'risk' finding the quality enhancement specialists.
So does that mean that the beauty editors are wrong about consumers being tired of the wag look? Actually, I think they are pretty accurate there. While professionals are enamoured with their ability to continue to push their smile lines deeper and deeper (not to mention nails with tropical sunsets or 3D flowers), Consumers are moving to professionals that can make their enhancements beautiful and natural.
Enhancements are not becoming less popular... it is just that the consumer demand for more natural and beautiful enhancements are growing!
An enhanced opportunity
A 'glass is half full' kind of person will identify this as a fantastic opportunity to turn transient manicure clients into higher income generating enhancement clients! This is simple to do with the focus on developing your skill set accordingly. Ditch the time spent trying to learn how to reproduce your favourite scene from 'The Sound of Music' on a pinkie nail and instead invest it into refining your custom blending, application and finishing techniques. Then revisit your marketing strategy to speak to those traditionally wanting manicures.
nJoy
Total Comments 17
Comments
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Blimey Sam, why didn't you post this in the forum? Talk about a thought provoking thread! I totally agree with what you say about manicures, we should push them more. But also as you say our bread and butter for nails is rebalances as the commitment is there. I have to say that here in Spain I have yet to see the Tanya Turner style nail ... and it's only young English tourists that ask for the square French. Viva les ongles naturel!Posted 02-09-07 at 11:11 AM by Sassy Hassy
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I think that's a brilliant post babe. A lot of incite and food for thought, for many!!
Posted 02-09-07 at 11:20 AM by Mrs Geek
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yeh i agree it should have been on the forum, but sam how on earth did you come up with words like socioeconomic on a flippin sunday morning
you must have had strong coffeePosted 02-09-07 at 12:20 PM by dee
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Fab read as always
and thought provoking.
On Thursday, I had my regular grey pound client for her monlthly manicure - she has a couple of nails which we have to "nurse" as they tend to split vertically from the free edge. I suggested that we perhaps used Fabric to help strengthen those nails and she was over the moon - might end up with her having a full set and regular maintenance with a bit of luckPosted 02-09-07 at 01:03 PM by Snugglepuss
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Great post Sam and I agree that as much as I love pushing myself to achieve competition style smiles, my clients are asking more and more for natural looking smiles in soft white or custom blend.Posted 02-09-07 at 01:09 PM by jac extreme
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Great read...could it be like anything...change in fashion ?? even make up goes through stages ... a more natural look isn't about less/no make up, its about using more natural shades and less heavy products. I have clients who have gone from last year having bright white, long, very square nails to...soft oval...short and natural looking. It my job to be able to move with the times and be able to offer more than just 1 look. xxPosted 02-09-07 at 01:31 PM by Bagpuss
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Definately some good food for thought there, especially about the Socio Perspective, very interesting indeed.Posted 02-09-07 at 02:48 PM by Cathie!
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Glad you guys enjoyed it
I didn't post it as a thread as it is more of a personal observation. If anything it could qualify as an article, however I thought it looked nice as a blog tooPosted 02-09-07 at 03:04 PM by The Geek
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I think as well with your socio-perspective is that "false" nails are perceived as chavvy and rather tacky by those of "the Chelsea set"Posted 02-09-07 at 03:33 PM by Sassy Hassy
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Great blog entry and certainly makes good reading. I for one certainly took the article in Scratch to indicate that manicures and natural nail care are the way to go.Posted 02-09-07 at 04:32 PM by PLAOH
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WoW!! I loved this read. Very interesting, particularly for someone like me who is so new to this. Never had enhancements myself and never knew anything about them until I started my training with Creative.
Where I live in a tiny village on Dartmoor, I was so, and still am, worried about my client base. I now have 9 regulars. £ of which are manicure and natural nail. The rest all have enhancements and I haven't once done square. they all like mine which I have to keep fairly short because of my current day job as a decorator.
When I did my Brisa gel course my model wanted square and I had to get shown again on how to do them as I have no call for them here.....yet. It seemed to be very popular to Plymouth. I suppose some areas must have certain styles that people wear and this rings true in nails also.
Sorry, I waffled on then,,,,,,,,,,excellent thread!!Posted 02-09-07 at 06:12 PM by PeepPaws
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This is too good not to be a thread Sam! I have recently relocated to an area where I don't think nail enhancements are as popular as they were in Essex but I think that is merely because people aren't as aware of what benefits can be achieved by wearing great natural looking enhancements. I also think that trends vary for different reasons. When I worked in London, natural nail care was more in demand than enhancements simply for the reason that most people in Central London are in extremely busy and demanding jobs and don't have the time to get enhancements done. Most of my old clients in Essex were enhancement clients who wore them to remedy problems they had with their natural nails and liked the nails to look as natural as possible. If I had to solely concentrate on natural nail care before I relocated, I wouldn't have stayed in business as the demand for manicure services, although important, wasn't substantial. The trend may be different now from what I am used to but I like to be able to offer my clients great services that are most appropriate to them whether it be natural looking enhancements or a great manicure.Posted 02-09-07 at 06:53 PM by Urban Geek
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Thanks guys, I added a thread and poll to gauge the increase/decrease of business amongst other geeklins here.Posted 02-09-07 at 07:36 PM by The Geek
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The bulk of my clients are enhancement clients, and the bulk of my enhancement clients want a more natural look! I don't often do long, white, square - in fact Soft White is probably my most used free edge colour.....
I'll take a peek at the thread too!Posted 03-09-07 at 08:20 AM by Vetty
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... I agree wholeheartedly with your obsevations.. I just wonder how i can relate to my girls who want the soak off, fresh white tips, overlay routine time and time again..
I am growing in my field.. but my clients are not.. I have ONE nn manicure client.. thats right ONE! my bread and butter is tip overlay/ rebalance. why? because thats what they see on the TV!
Soooo.. whats the answer for me?.. well Sam.. you answered it for me
An enhanced opportunity...
I must show them another way...Posted 04-09-07 at 01:24 AM by littlegrohl
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ooopsPosted 28-10-09 at 04:03 AM by uniq12u
Updated 28-10-09 at 04:08 AM by uniq12u -
hit the wrong button againPosted 28-10-09 at 04:04 AM by uniq12u
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