The most common fault of amateurs and students is that they use the brush at the wrong angle when creating the ‘stress area, which gives a bulky barrel-like appearance to the finished nail enhancement. Remember the brush angle in Zone 2 should be almost parallel to the nail.

The thickest part of the enhancement is zone 2 (also known as the stress area and the apex) where the nail takes the pressure when put under stress. Although this is the thickest part of the enhancement, it does not mean that it should be ‘thick’, just a touch thicker than the product at the smile line itself. This zone should never cover more than half the visible nail plate. This is important, as you must leave enough room in zone three to work the bead without touching the skin in that zone.

It is also important when making the finished enhancement with your brush, that you leave no ‘ledge’ of product in zone 2. The product should melt into the nail plate. This will ensure that you do not end up with 2 apexes (or ridges) in the enhancement that you have to file away later. In order to achieve this ‘melting into the nail’ effect, you must learn to push and then pull the bead in one easy fluid movement of the brush.

It is very important that when you lay your brush on the bead, that the flags of the brush extend just a tiny bit over the edge of the bead and are not resting in the middle of it. If the flags are not in the correct position, then you will force up another ledge of product, which you definitely do not want.

The push pull method is a similar movement to that which professionals employ when applying nail enamel. When you have placed your liquid/powder bead in the position you want and let it settle for a second or two, you lay your brush on the bead and push it toward the eponychium (gently but firmly) first (just enough to thin out the ‘ledge’ of product), before pulling your brush (lightly) over the rest of the enhancement to the tip. You will also employ this method for zone 3. Learn to vary your pressure for the push (firm but gentle) and the pull (light).

Many technicians at first, fear that pushing the bead will back the product into the brush and make it all gooey. If your mix is correct, this wont happen so just go for it and try the method because it will change you life as a technician and the look and the lasting ability of your enhancements. This method will reduce filing also because the enhancements will be beautiful and well balanced before you start to file them. Less filing means stronger enhancements and less dust and work for you, the technician. You win all the way around when you incorporate this method of application.