Perfect Form – It’s All a Matter of Degree.

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Perfect Form – It’s All a Matter of Degree.

No matter how well your nails have been prepared … No matter how perfect your mix ratio or how brilliantly you control your product and your brush, at the end of the day it is the final look of the enhancements in which your client is interested … if the final look does not please then the technician is in for trouble.

The final look is all about consistency. Creating the exact same form on every nail is of paramount importance and as usual, in order to achieve this you must adopt a ‘system’ or technique and stick to it rigidly for each nail.

Let’s define the terms first so we know what we are talking about.

Most people refer to the shape of the nail as being oval, round, square, square round (or soft square), squoval (or tapered square), stiletto etc. Really these terms do not apply to the shape they apply to the Form, in other words, the outline of the nail … that view which we see when looking straight on to the top of the finger. This view is one-dimensional.

Shape refers to the side view of the nail, which is three-dimensional having depth and height and length.

This tutorial is concerned with creating the perfect Form time after time after time.

It is not possible for you to draw the form that you want to make, on the nail. You must develop your ‘eye’ for perfect form and be able to see it in your mind. Looking at beautiful images of perfect nails is a good way to develop your ‘eye’ and to help you create the same thing for yourself. As always though, there are some simple ‘rules’ to follow that will help you create the final picture.

Learn to visualize an invisible centre line that runs down the nail.
Know, that to create symmetry, the sidewalls must be exactly the same length on each side of the nail and on every nail.
Know, that to create symmetry, the angle from the centre line to the sidewalls must be the same from each side of the centre line to the sidewalls and the same on every nail.

Once you learn and stick to these 3 simple rules, the rest is easy.

It’s all a matter of degree!

The Perfect Square Nail (or Competition Nail)

Make sure the sidewalls are of equal length, perfectly straight and parallel to each other.
At the free edge, the angle from both sides of the centre line to the sidewalls should be at 90°

The Soft Square Nail (or Rounded Square)

Make sure the sidewalls are of equal length, perfectly straight and parallel to each other.
At the free edge, the angle from both sides of the centre line to the sidewalls should be at 90°
Use your abrasive from the underside of the nail and gently soften or ‘round’(use no pressure) each corner off by using a gentle rocking motion.

The Tapered Square Nail (or Squoval)

Make sure the sidewalls are of equal length, perfectly straight but tapered in slightly (at the same angle on each side) toward the centre line.
At the free edge, the arc from both sides of the centre line to the sidewalls should be very gently curved and not straight across.
Use your abrasive from the underside of the nail and gently soften or ‘round’ (use no pressure) each corner off by using a gentle rocking motion.

The Round Nail

Make sure the sidewalls are of equal length, perfectly straight but tapered in slightly (at the same angle on each side) toward the centre line.
At the free edge, the arc from both sides of the centre line to the sidewalls should be more dramatically curved until a rounded appearance is achieved. Always use the abrasive from the underside of the enhancement, so you can see what you are doing. Work from the centre line to the sidewalls on each side and make sure the arc of the curve is the same from both sides of the centre line to the sidewalls.
There will be no corners on this nail.

The Oval Nail (or Almond)

Make sure the sidewalls are of equal length (short in this case), perfectly straight but tapered in slightly (at the same angle on each side) toward the centre line.
The angle of the arc from the centre line to the sidewalls should be at 45°
The centre point and all other angles should be gently softened from the underside of the nail using a rocking motion with the abrasive. Nothing should look sharp.

The Stiletto Nail

Make sure the sidewalls are of equal length (short in this case), perfectly straight but tapered in slightly (at the same angle on each side) toward the centre line.
The angle from the centre line to the sidewalls should be at 30°-35° and can be cut into the tip, before product application, using a pair of curved scissors to save time filing.
The point and all other angles should be gently softened from the underside of the nail using a rocking motion with the abrasive. This nail will look very dramatic and stylized.

The Asymmetrical Lipstick Nail

In the case of this nail form, the sidewalls are of unequal length but should be the same for every nail. It is up to the technician and client to determine the appropriate length for the client.
The angle from the centre line to each sidewall will comply with joining up the asymmetrical walls by using the abrasive at the appropriate angel.
The corners can be softened or not as the technician and the client see fit.

Hopefully you will now see that each nail form is changed only by the degree of the angle or arc from the centre line to the sidewalls and the length and angle of the sidewalls.

Developing your ‘eye’ to see the form you want to achieve is vital along with the system you use to create it.

Developing a system that works for you is the key to decreasing your time with each client. Clients expect a professional to take a certain acceptable amount of time for each appointment. The time taken should allow the client to relax and to feel pampered too.