Not got the required lift

[fleur75]

Hi, I had a new client in yesterday for highlights, on doing the consultation and asking what colour previously she had on her hair, she said she was told by her previous salon it was tint with bleach in which i presumed it was as she's a base 6 and was very light blonde, i did comb highlights with Wella Koleston 12/1 with 12% and a scoop of bleach, and i did not get the lift that we'd hoped for and the regrowth has heavy yellow tones a toner didnt do much either, her hair is damaged slightly by previous colouring hence why I did the tint instead of just bleach, and now I'm wondering which route to take to lift her roots whether to go over with bleach foils with a 9%, just on the top section of hair??

 

[Perry_Althair]

Hi, I had a new client in yesterday for highlights, on doing the consultation and asking what colour previously she had on her hair, she said she was told by her previous salon it was tint with bleach in which i presumed it was as she's a base 6 and was very light blonde, i did comb highlights with Wella Koleston 12/1 with 12% and a scoop of bleach, and i did not get the lift that we'd hoped for and the regrowth has heavy yellow tones a toner didnt do much either, her hair is damaged slightly by previous colouring hence why I did the tint instead of just bleach, and now I'm wondering which route to take to lift her roots whether to go over with bleach foils with a 9%, just on the top section of hair??

Hey

I always find that highlift tint is more damaging than bleach to be honest... id probably say to go over with bleach at 6% or maybe even 3%...if you've got a gentle ammonia free bleach that'd be even better

 

[fleur75]

Thanks for your reply! I did the tint as my clients hair you could see had been overprocessed and was already starting to break and i believed the wella range to be quite conditioning, would you recommend foils?? as I want to keep it to the roots I was thinking maybe a cap to concentrate on the root for 10 mins or so then comb thru and only leaving it for the minimum amount of time to reduce the amount of damage??

 

[Perry_Althair]

Thanks for your reply! I did the tint as my clients hair you could see had been overprocessed and was already starting to break and i believed the wella range to be quite conditioning, would you recommend foils?? as I want to keep it to the roots I was thinking maybe a cap to concentrate on the root for 10 mins or so then comb thru and only leaving it for the minimum amount of time to reduce the amount of damage??

Is it just the roots that done have enough lift, or the whole of the foils?

 

[Bluerinse]

Thanks for your reply! I did the tint as my clients hair you could see had been overprocessed and was already starting to break and i believed the wella range to be quite conditioning, would you recommend foils?? as I want to keep it to the roots I was thinking maybe a cap to concentrate on the root for 10 mins or so then comb thru and only leaving it for the minimum amount of time to reduce the amount of damage??

Foils or visi colour I use, cap is very old hat personally. bleach with pastel developer is what I would now do, to start I would of used 12/16 to kill both orange and yellow underlying tones in the hair, but like I said bleach fouls now then hopefully all you should need is a silver shampoo after

 

[fleur75]

Is it just the roots that done have enough lift, or the whole of the foils?

just the roots that dont have the required lift!!

 

[fleur75]

Foils or visi colour I use, cap is very old hat personally. bleach with pastel developer is what I would now do, to start I would of used 12/16 to kill both orange and yellow underlying tones in the hair, but like I said bleach fouls now then hopefully all you should need is a silver shampoo after

I was thinking the cap as the bleach would go on all at once rather than taking time to foil as i want to keep damage to an absolute minimum as it is quite strawy?

 

[Perry_Althair]

just the roots that dont have the required lift!!

well i'd say foil, as blue rinse said also...with bleach and a low peroxide and dont take through atall.

 

[fleur75]

Thanks for the advice! will do!

 

[Bluerinse]

I was thinking the cap as the bleach would go on all at once rather than taking time to foil as i want to keep damage to an absolute minimum as it is quite strawy?

Bleach with pastel in foils just on the affected area is a lot kinder than pulling damaged hair through a plastic cap with a hook slapping colour on then yanking the cap back off!

 

[fleur75]

Bleach with pastel in foils just on the affected area is a lot kinder than pulling damaged hair through a plastic cap with a hook slapping colour on then yanking the cap back off!

I agree! thanks for the advice!

 

[Roxi]

I agree with the bleach and pastel toner to sort the roots out. How much bleach did you put in the highlift? Too much will knock the tone out of a colour, hence the brassy result. I usually put in a tiny amount just a touch on the tip of a teaspoon. HTH.

 

[snaz]

I was told on a fresher course that it is useless mixing colour with bleach, has the bleach would just contract the highlift tint.. You should just tone afterwards....

Not sure if they are right or wrong but this is the way I do this now.

Also highlift tint is more damaging to the hair than bleach.. bleach is 8.5-9.5 alkaline and highlift is 9.5-10.5. The only reasons that people think bleach is more damaging has it is used incorrect, i.e mixed with too high peroxide or left on too long.. Bleach only stops working when it drys.

So there's no reason why bleach could not be used..

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this us what I've been recently been told on my course.

 

[Bluerinse]

Dependent on how much you put in it, I find it quite affective, on the courses I take all the information in like a sponge but take on board and follow very little as it puts a dampner on creativity personally.

 

[snaz]

Cheers bluerinse, I will remember this.

 

[persianista]

It's not correct that bleach does less damage due to the lower ph. High lift tints use ammonia buffers to limit the damage of the ph. It's why you can get a texture change on the hair with bleach, but not high lift tint.

 

[lou :)]

It's not correct that bleach does less damage due to the lower ph. High lift tints use ammonia buffers to limit the damage of the ph. It's why you can get a texture change on the hair with bleach, but not high lift tint.

In theory that is true, my personal experience my hair snapped off to an inch short in the crown area so I now use blondor & pastel & find it's loads better & get a cleaner lift..... Maybe it's a horses for courses situation?

Just an opinion, not trying to correct anybody