7/89 to 6/89

[Amonavis33]

I am having trouble with a client who is very prone to warmth and only likes ashy dark blonde hair.

I know CT 6/89 doesn’t exist but I’d like to create it. The 9 subtone doesn’t matter, I mostly need 6/8. Should I simply add a tiny bit of CT 2/8 to the 7/89? Or is it a better practice to combine 5/1 with the 7/89 since it’s closer? I am just worried I won’t get as much blue which I need to neutralize brassy level 6.5 hair.

The client pulls very warm, using the 4% developer with 7/89 and 7/1 (half and half) somehow looks quite warm on her after a few washes.

i tried correcting it with 7/89 only (still used 4% developer though). It barely made any difference.

Now I want to go darker and more blue on her, and use 1.9% for more deposit and no lift.

Thoughts? Had anyone ever heard of mixing 7/89 with 2/8? These are the only /8 options it seems.

 

[Reide]

Before developping the colour formula I would look into why its looking warm.

1. Whats her aftercare
2. Are you lightening her enough
3. Is her hair strong?
4. How are you foiling
5. Whats her base level and whats her colourtreated hair level
6. Whats the porosity
7. What is the toners processing time

Throwing blue at her and hoping for the best may not get her the results she wants. If she is "red" in the sence of levels she is a 7, yes. But blue and cendre + red equals purple. When the blue fades red will be left. Cendre also has red in it due to the violet since that is mostly blue with a dash of red. As I havent seen her hair and I am still an apprentice I'm not sure about giving you formulas but sometimes analysing over the simple things helps.

 

[ronray]

I am having trouble with a client who is very prone to warmth and only likes ashy dark blonde hair.

I know CT 6/89 doesn’t exist but I’d like to create it. The 9 subtone doesn’t matter, I mostly need 6/8. Should I simply add a tiny bit of CT 2/8 to the 7/89? Or is it a better practice to combine 5/1 with the 7/89 since it’s closer? I am just worried I won’t get as much blue which I need to neutralize brassy level 6.5 hair.

The client pulls very warm, using the 4% developer with 7/89 and 7/1 (half and half) somehow looks quite warm on her after a few washes.

i tried correcting it with 7/89 only (still used 4% developer though). It barely made any difference.

Now I want to go darker and more blue on her, and use 1.9% for more deposit and no lift.

Thoughts? Had anyone ever heard of mixing 7/89 with 2/8? These are the only /8 options it seems.

7/89 is a colour touch shade, so by adding 4% your creating that warmth that the client sees after a few washes.
The underlying pigment of their natural colour is being exposed because of the developer.
To create a 6/89 you'd be better off using 6/0 + 0/88 using the rule of 11. And use 1.9% as you developer. When you're depositing tone, or correcting tone you need the lowest developer.