Achieving ash brown over a red

Judda1

New Member
Looking for advice. I just going back into hairdressing so my skills are a bit rusty. My sister wants to go to a chocolate brown with some ash highlights. She currently has 55/05 colour touch + on hair, so quite red. She has some grey in her crown area, so was looking at using wella 6.1 with 6% to cover red/grey, think 6 wont take the warmth away? She wanted to some lighter ash highlights adding, have done a strand test with bleach using 6%, lifted to about an 8 very warm ideally need to lift to a 9? Any advice about toners to use?
Thank you
 

tsparker78

Well-Known Member
Remember your color wheel. 6.1 won't touch it. You need green, 6.2. Use two formulas. One to cover the regrowth and another to neutralize the red.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Looking for advice. I just going back into hairdressing so my skills are a bit rusty. My sister wants to go to a chocolate brown with some ash highlights. She currently has 55/05 colour touch + on hair, so quite red. She has some grey in her crown area, so was looking at using wella 6.1 with 6% to cover red/grey, think 6 wont take the warmth away? She wanted to some lighter ash highlights adding, have done a strand test with bleach using 6%, lifted to about an 8 very warm ideally need to lift to a 9? Any advice about toners to use?
Thank you
6.l/1 won't cover 55/05?
A level 6 won't cover a level 5 regardless of the tone. You'll either need to stick to a base 5 and add cool mixt tone to the colour like 0/28 or 0/22 to counteract the red. 6/1 or 5/1 isn't pigmented enough to counteract the red, it will only be enough to subdue it. If you don't want to take her that dark then I'd cleanse the old colour out first.
 

caitlinfaulks

New Member
6.l/1 won't cover 55/05?
A level 6 won't cover a level 5 regardless of the tone. You'll either need to stick to a base 5 and add cool mixt tone to the colour like 0/28 or 0/22 to counteract the red. 6/1 or 5/1 isn't pigmented enough to counteract the red, it will only be enough to subdue it. If you don't want to take her that dark then I'd cleanse the old colour out first.
Agreed, do a cleanse first because remember you also usually need to go at least a level lighter in your undercoat when wanting a cool result. So even if you do drop it back down to a 5/1 you will still get a cooler result than it you were to just cover the red with a 5/1. But keep in mind it will depend on what your undercoat is so just make sure it’s as even as possible.
 

Judda1

New Member
6.l/1 won't cover 55/05?
A level 6 won't cover a level 5 regardless of the tone. You'll either need to stick to a base 5 and add cool mixt tone to the colour like 0/28 or 0/22 to counteract the red. 6/1 or 5/1 isn't pigmented enough to counteract the red, it will only be enough to subdue it. If you don't want to take her that dark then I'd cleanse the old colour out first.
6.l/1 won't cover 55/05?
A level 6 won't cover a level 5 regardless of the tone. You'll either need to stick to a base 5 and add cool mixt tone to the colour like 0/28 or 0/22 to counteract the red. 6/1 or 5/1 isn't pigmented enough to counteract the red, it will only be enough to subdue it. If you don't want to take her that dark then I'd cleanse the old colour out first.
Thank you for your reply. Can I just ask what you would cleanse it with either a cleansing shampoo or bleach and water mix, thank you, don’t want too dark
 

Judda1

New Member
Agreed, do a cleanse first because remember you also usually need to go at least a level lighter in your undercoat when wanting a cool result. So even if you do drop it back down to a 5/1 you will still get a cooler result than it you were to just cover the red with a 5/1. But keep in mind it will depend on what your undercoat is so just make sure it’s as even as possible.
 

Judda1

New Member
I will cleanse to lighten first, I know the red will be difficult to cover.
I was using wella koleston 6% due to having grey in crown but just Wondered that using colour touch plus 5/1 would be a better option, softer and not has dark?
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
6.l/1 won't cover 55/05?
A level 6 won't cover a level 5 regardless of the tone. You'll either need to stick to a base 5 and add cool mixt tone to the colour like 0/28 or 0/22 to counteract the red. 6/1 or 5/1 isn't pigmented enough to counteract the red, it will only be enough to subdue it. If you don't want to take her that dark then I'd cleanse the old colour out first.
Bleach and water will help remove excess tone.
If that's not enough, then you can do 1part blondor powder to 4parts pastel.
 

Judda1

New Member
Bleach and water will help remove excess tone.
If that's not enough, then you can do 1part blondor powder to 4parts pastel.
Thank you really helpful
 
Top