Advice and colour suggestions please

[C.R]

Hey geeks,
So, I'm still very newly qualified and looking for suggestions on the best method to use on this particular client as well as colours (I use L'Oréal but still very new to this line)
New client would like her regrowth lightened up to what she had done before (which you can see in the pic), and just wondering if I should foil her using lightener and 6% developer for 2/3levels of lift (low and slow, I don't want to expose too much warmth with a higher developer in foils) and then go in after (once hair is dry)to use target shade of maybe an 8.13 in foils? Or, if I were to foil using 1:1 lightener and marjirel in one process, would marjirel lift to a true level 8 or would I have to use a 9 because of the ash in the .13............I hope I'm on the right tracks.......

 

[AcidPerm]

Not sure I can tell from the picture but it Looks like 3 different tones beyond the root area. Is she wanting you to match what's there?

I'd probably foil with bleach plus one colour alternating (9) and flood the rest with a darker tint (7?) Sorry, I don't use L'Oréal so I can't really recommend which colours to use.

 

[C.R]

Thanks AcidPerm, and yes she wants it to match up, think I'll foil alternating with bleach and a 9 then-Do you think it's worth using two different strengths of developer with the 9 to try and match up?

 

[AcidPerm]

No, I'd use the correct developer for the lift required for the level of the tint chosen. So if I want a darker shade, I'd choose tint that's a depth lower or so rather than reduce the developer strength.

In other words, think about the percentage of colour pigment that you get in an ashy 7 compared to an ashy 9 for instance.

Here's a chart I saved from a while ago. It's not intended to be an absolute guide as the pigment levels will vary between colour houses but it helps to explain the colour theory more easily, I think.

Level - Pigment Weight

10 - 3-4 units of pigment
9 - 8 units of pigment
8 - 10 units of pigment
7 - 15 units of pigment
6 - 25 units of pigment
5 - 40 units of pigment
4 - 75 units of pigment
3 - 100 units of pigment
2 - 125 units of pigment
1 - 150 units of pigment

 

[C.R]

No, I'd use the correct developer for the lift required for the level of the tint chosen. So if I want a darker shade, I'd choose tint that's a depth lower or so rather than reduce the developer strength.

In other words, think about the percentage of colour pigment that you get in an ashy 7 compared to an ashy 9 for instance.

Here's a chart I saved from a while ago. It's not intended to be an absolute guide as the pigment levels will vary between colour houses but it helps to explain the colour theory more easily, I think.

Level - Pigment Weight

10 - 3-4 units of pigment
9 - 8 units of pigment
8 - 10 units of pigment
7 - 15 units of pigment
6 - 25 units of pigment
5 - 40 units of pigment
4 - 75 units of pigment
3 - 100 units of pigment
2 - 125 units of pigment
1 - 150 units of pigment

Thank you AcidPerm, that's very helpful, even after qualification the real learning begins! Xxx

 

[vividamnesia]

It is hard to tell from the pic but it looks to me like a faded lv.7Gc or lv.7 Cg depending on how vibrant a copper she likes. I would do a few foils with 20-25vol(1/2 30vol+1/2 20vol=25vol) through the top section first, then do the roots in 20vol+ target color, then refresh ends depending on how much copper she likes. You can do it in a 1 step process without doing the base first then drying the hair then doing the foils.

 

[C.R]

It is hard to tell from the pic but it looks to me like a faded lv.7Gc or lv.7 Cg depending on how vibrant a copper she likes. I would do a few foils with 20-25vol(1/2 30vol+1/2 20vol=25vol) through the top section first, then do the roots in 20vol+ target color, then refresh ends depending on how much copper she likes. You can do it in a 1 step process without doing the base first then drying the hair then doing the foils.

Thank you vividamnesia, very helpful advise and was thinking about the 25vol with the lightener in foils-I think because she's having her hair done for her wedding also, this is the first time I feel under pressure to deliver perfect results xxx

 

[vividamnesia]

Thank you vividamnesia, very helpful advise and was thinking about the 25vol with the lightener in foils-I think because she's having her hair done for her wedding also, this is the first time I feel under pressure to deliver perfect results xxx

I am sure you will do awesome

 

[Bella93xox]

It would be easier if she had a before picture without her regrowth. I would just do foils for this bleach with 9% with bleach 2:1 8.13 majirel xx