After lockdown advice

[MJHosie]

Hi, New Member.
I have now just had my graduation and stand ready to work with Clients on a mobile basis once the lockdown here in Scotland is lifted. I had planned to do all hair cutting, styling and blowdrying but excluding colour work as its the bit that scares me the most.
Anyway I figure that after the lockdown is listed the ladies will be desperate for their hair to be done and would you agree its lots of Root Regrowths?
As Root regrowth is Virgin Hair it may need lightening but shouldnt need tonnes of bleach.
Questions=
Is it likely to be Bleach with 30vol at Roots - or is 30 too strong
Existing Hair shouldnt need bleached as it just at Target colour
Once lightened is it then as matter of having agreed with Client the Tone we just apply Toner with 30% over whole head not just the prelighted Roots area?
Also.. With bleach the 48 hour test is not normally involved but if toner applied i guess it is. With a new Client phoning to have roots done What is the Best Method for covering the topic of knowing what colour/brand etc the client used before? Then mixing with what Vol or peroxide?
Is it, Chat, Then visit to cut /style and come to agreement on product etc, then pop out and get the colour needed. take round the next to get a tube of toner and 30% and Bleach. Do test , leave 48 and if not a reaction/problem then as above its bleach and tonnes while damp?

 

[AcidPerm]

30% eeek!
You'd never use anything stronger than 6% or 20vol on the root area.

Root re-growth colouring isn’t always straightforward. You want to avoid hot roots and a demarcation line between the roots and the old faded colour so it needs a lot of thought and careful execution for each client. Ideally, you have a selection of go to toners for use after bleaching so you can blend them to create the right colour for the job.

Do you have much salon experience because if you’re straight out of college, you might find it beneficial to work alongside other colleagues to increase your experience, especially with colour. If you can rent a chair in a salon, that might help?

 

[ronray]

Hi, New Member.
I have now just had my graduation and stand ready to work with Clients on a mobile basis once the lockdown here in Scotland is lifted. I had planned to do all hair cutting, styling and blowdrying but excluding colour work as its the bit that scares me the most.
Anyway I figure that after the lockdown is listed the ladies will be desperate for their hair to be done and would you agree its lots of Root Regrowths?
As Root regrowth is Virgin Hair it may need lightening but shouldnt need tonnes of bleach.
Questions=
Is it likely to be Bleach with 30vol at Roots - or is 30 too strong
Existing Hair shouldnt need bleached as it just at Target colour
Once lightened is it then as matter of having agreed with Client the Tone we just apply Toner with 30% over whole head not just the prelighted Roots area?
Also.. With bleach the 48 hour test is not normally involved but if toner applied i guess it is. With a new Client phoning to have roots done What is the Best Method for covering the topic of knowing what colour/brand etc the client used before? Then mixing with what Vol or peroxide?
Is it, Chat, Then visit to cut /style and come to agreement on product etc, then pop out and get the colour needed. take round the next to get a tube of toner and 30% and Bleach. Do test , leave 48 and if not a reaction/problem then as above its bleach and tonnes while damp?

30 vol and bleach is a no go on the scalp, unless you have a scalp bleach specifically designed to be used with higher developers - this only applies to certain brands. Usually 20vol gives more than enough lift on the scalp anyway.

You certainly don't want to be using 30vol /9% with a toner. Generally toners are applied with 10vol/ 3% or less.

As for matching roots etc @AcidPerm is right, it's not always as straight forward as choosing a colour and applying it. Most clients will be due a full colour now, and you generally wouldn't use the same colour an developer all the way through.
Most clients roots will be at least 2 inches long or more - this comes with its own complications.

It may be beneficial for you to take a colouring course - this will give you a better insight and more information for when it comes to tackling situations like these.

 

[MJHosie]

Thanks very much @AcidPerm and @ronray . Your advice is brilliant. I've been lucky with tuition and placements but I know I must learn lots more, unfortunately when lockdown is lifted getting salon experience is going to be tricky.

I understand lots of your guidance and know that root regrowth is complicated, I have never given opinion of simplicity with colour whereas some of colleague have. Roots will be certainly 2 inch of virgin hair often needing lifted by some layers. The existing hair likely to need refreshed as well. Watching our for demarcation lines is essential.

I realise that key is always neatness, precise sectioning and finese. Likely to be Good Quality Bleach and this needs to have low peroxide as it works powerfully with Good Bleach, hence maybe 10vol or 20vol on roots.. Hot Cross Brush section and carefully apply bleach to the regrowth only avoid too cclose to scalp due to swelling potential. Leave to lighten hair then shampoo.

By careful lifting during hot cross but we should have neat sections and a minimum of overlap.

Now blonde will need a toner to roots likely to need some Ash or Pearl in it. If Roots are at a Level 8 use a 9 ash/pearl to tone with 10vol peroxide on Roots for 10mins. After 10 mins apply rest of the 9, ash/pearl etc to mid/ends. Leave all for another 5-7mins.

Then wash, shampoo and Condition.

 

[ronray]

Thanks very much @AcidPerm and @ronray . Your advice is brilliant. I've been lucky with tuition and placements but I know I must learn lots more, unfortunately when lockdown is lifted getting salon experience is going to be tricky.

I understand lots of your guidance and know that root regrowth is complicated, I have never given opinion of simplicity with colour whereas some of colleague have. Roots will be certainly 2 inch of virgin hair often needing lifted by some layers. The existing hair likely to need refreshed as well. Watching our for demarcation lines is essential.

I realise that key is always neatness, precise sectioning and finese. Likely to be Good Quality Bleach and this needs to have low peroxide as it works powerfully with Good Bleach, hence maybe 10vol or 20vol on roots.. Hot Cross Brush section and carefully apply bleach to the regrowth only avoid too cclose to scalp due to swelling potential. Leave to lighten hair then shampoo.

By careful lifting during hot cross but we should have neat sections and a minimum of overlap.

Now blonde will need a toner to roots likely to need some Ash or Pearl in it. If Roots are at a Level 8 use a 9 ash/pearl to tone with 10vol peroxide on Roots for 10mins. After 10 mins apply rest of the 9, ash/pearl etc to mid/ends. Leave all for another 5-7mins.

Then wash, shampoo and Condition.

Be careful applying ash over a level 8. Also a level 9 toner isn't going to do a great deal over a level 8.

 

[BeautIsh]

When I finished my level 2 at college I wasn’t happy with what I was taught, so I done my level 3 privately and they took me right back to basics and I feel a million times better for it.

If you are not comfortable with something my advice is unless it’s a family member or very close friend who will completely understand if something goes wrong then do not do it.
All it will take is for something to go wrong with one client and for them not to be understanding and it will completely knock your confidence.

Lots of hairdressers during lockdown have shared videos and educational resources that might interest you as well.

 

[MJHosie]

BeautIsh
Thanks for your guidance. I have applied for my hnc however everything is up in the air due to the virus. I've had conditional offer and hope to get in. I've come to industry very late in my career and spent most of my life as an insurance underwriter so I know Risk and committing to something i'm not comfortable with is an Alien concept.
I do however have a question. Once lockdown is raised its likely many customers will be looking to have Root Regrowth done. 3 month of Roots is likely to be common. My education about Roots have been on idea of an Inch or so. I have been trained to hot cross bun, and apply a bleach mix with 10vol to roots, as close as possible but not touching scalp. Leave for 30 to lighten hair, washing, shampoo and apply the Toner used on mid/end (hopefully from client record card) at root with 10 vol , apply to lightened section for 10 then pull through rest of hair for final 10 and wash, shampoo and condition. What if Any Differences will this extended lockdown have caused with longer Roots?

 

[House Beauty]

BeautIsh
Thanks for your guidance. I have applied for my hnc however everything is up in the air due to the virus. I've had conditional offer and hope to get in. I've come to industry very late in my career and spent most of my life as an insurance underwriter so I know Risk and committing to something i'm not comfortable with is an Alien concept.
I do however have a question. Once lockdown is raised its likely many customers will be looking to have Root Regrowth done. 3 month of Roots is likely to be common. My education about Roots have been on idea of an Inch or so. I have been trained to hot cross bun, and apply a bleach mix with 10vol to roots, as close as possible but not touching scalp. Leave for 30 to lighten hair, washing, shampoo and apply the Toner used on mid/end (hopefully from client record card) at root with 10 vol , apply to lightened section for 10 then pull through rest of hair for final 10 and wash, shampoo and condition. What if Any Differences will this extended lockdown have caused with longer Roots?

Am beauty so cannot comment on the colouring but personally the only thing I would change from a usual hair colouring is plop they client outside on a chair on a non rainy day or tell them to go for a walk or sit in their car with a towel or bin bag over the seat while it develops. You can nip out to check on it. If they’ve had no garden all this time they would probably love being outside and having some privacy.

As much as wearing a mask etc, limiting the closeness is more important. No point sharing the same air for an extra 30mins or whatever. Would include price of an extra mask so you can get some fresh air in another room or the garden too.