Application of tips, they’re flicking upwards!

#1
Hi guys. Just a bit of advice on tips please.

I did extensions with tips and BIAB (albeit short extensions) on a friend... applied tips with glue and applied pressure on the tips and they looked fine. Once cut and shaped they suddenly looked like they were flicking upwards and even more once I applied the BIAB they flicked upwards. Thankfully it was a friend modelling and when they all popped off within days it wasn’t too embarrassing. Now I’m charging, I don’t want this to happen again. I applied tips on myself for practice, applying pressure on tips to ensure they pointed downwards and then shaped before applying the gel pot. Most of my nails are fine but my thumb did the same as my friends where it flicks upwards. Its fine upon application but seems once I cut and shape the tip the flick becomes noticeable. I built a decent appex on this thumb and it’s barely noticeable now but I can’t help but think I’m missing a simple trick here in application of the tips?! I’m applying a good amount of pressure on the tip when waiting for glue to set, I’m setting them in a downwards motion.... what am I doing wrong?! Help! Thank you x
 

#2
Hi!
There are quite a few things that can cause that. For example, if the customer has a ski jump type nail or nail bed that tilts upwards. Or, very commonly, if you are not shaping them properly and filing too much on the sidewalls in an attempt to make the nails appear more narrow. Are you experiencing the same issue with forms? Because if the same is happening when you sculpt, I'd place a bet on you filing off the sidewalls. The sidewall should be super straight, coming right out of the nailbed when seen from profile. It should not go up or down.
Do you have a photo (preferable from the sides) maybe we can see the issue more clearly?
 

#3
So are you saying I can’t file the sidewalls too much are gluing then down? This photo shows the flicks I mean but with product on unfortunely x
 

#5
The same doesn’t happen when I sculpt. X
 

#6
It looks like the tip might have been too small for the nail, looking at the side of the free edge. Especially since you also say you applied a good amount of pressure to it, which could suggest that you're not using the correct size tips. I only sculpt myself, I don't use tips anymore, but using a tip size too small is a very common issue. But also it can appear as though you have filed too much on the side walls. Further to that, I cannot see an apex anywhere, and incorrect structure can and will cause lifting. Perhaps some more advice from your educator would be worthwhile, you recently graduated they should be able to offer you some free advice.
 
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