Ash brown on cleansed copper hair

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Emmylou411

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Hi, so I posted the other day with this client and she previously had majirouge 7.45 on her hair which was done last November. She now wants to go a natural light ash brown or the best I can achieve without highlighting or bleaching. She has done a home colour cleanse to help remove some of the orange tone and it has resulted slightly lighter but very golden still. She wants just a colour all over to tone it all back to a nice natural light brown. I shall put now pics up after the cleanse. My thoughts are to apply 7.1 all over. Her natural base 6 lifts up warm as I have used 6.1 in the past and it was slightly golden. I can’t decide on whether to use double ash to have a better chance of knocking out that orange/gold?
 

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ronray

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Hi, so I posted the other day with this client and she previously had majirouge 7.45 on her hair which was done last November. She now wants to go a natural light ash brown or the best I can achieve without highlighting or bleaching. She has done a home colour cleanse to help remove some of the orange tone and it has resulted slightly lighter but very golden still. She wants just a colour all over to tone it all back to a nice natural light brown. I shall put now pics up after the cleanse. My thoughts are to apply 7.1 all over. Her natural base 6 lifts up warm as I have used 6.1 in the past and it was slightly golden. I can’t decide on whether to use double ash to have a better chance of knocking out that orange/gold?
I think your client needs to lower her expectations, ideally to rid of any warmth you need to either pre lighten and then re colour or you need to drop 2 levels. Otherwise after a few washes it's going to creep back through.
Underlying pigment is always stronger than anything that comes out of a tube.
Also the fact that she is putting cleansers / colour removers etc on it herself isn't great.
If she doesn't want to be any darker than a 7 and for whatever reason doesn't want you to prelighten it then I think her goal of 7.1 is unachievable.
 

Emmylou411

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I think your client needs to lower her expectations, ideally to rid of any warmth you need to either pre lighten and then re colour or you need to drop 2 levels. Otherwise after a few washes it's going to creep back through.
Underlying pigment is always stronger than anything that comes out of a tube.
Also the fact that she is putting cleansers / colour removers etc on it herself isn't great.
If she doesn't want to be any darker than a 7 and for whatever reason doesn't want you to prelighten it then I think her goal of 7.1 is unachievable.
Thanks for your reply. I know, I have given her all the options I could do to get the best result but she just says ok leave it up to you what ever you think! She just wants to go with one colour al over to cover it up. Not too worried about how much ash she gets at the end but would like to try and neutralise the gold/orange that is there as much as possible by doing this. Her hair has only just recovered from a really bad perm ( not done by me!) it is all grown and been cut out now and so doesn’t want to start having harsh stuff like bleach on it. So I’m thinking by applying 6.1+7.1 all over should get a nice toned down looking brown. Just can’t decide whether to use double ash on the ends or if it may go too much and look khaki? X
 

ronray

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Thanks for your reply. I know, I have given her all the options I could do to get the best result but she just says ok leave it up to you what ever you think! She just wants to go with one colour al over to cover it up. Not too worried about how much ash she gets at the end but would like to try and neutralise the gold/orange that is there as much as possible by doing this. Her hair has only just recovered from a really bad perm ( not done by me!) it is all grown and been cut out now and so doesn’t want to start having harsh stuff like bleach on it. So I’m thinking by applying 6.1+7.1 all over should get a nice toned down looking brown. Just can’t decide whether to use double ash on the ends or if it may go too much and look khaki? X
The tones I can see is yellow - orange so if you use 7.1 or 6.1 it's green. So you'd get a khaki tone anyway. You need to be using blue and violet in your formula. I'd safely say to go with a level 6. Her roots are at least a level 5. So you can't put a level 7 on it and achieve one even colour.
 

Emmylou411

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The tones I can see is yellow - orange so if you use 7.1 or 6.1 it's green. So you'd get a khaki tone anyway. You need to be using blue and violet in your formula. I'd safely say to go with a level 6. Her roots are at least a level 5. So you can't put a level 7 on it and achieve one even colour.
Thank you, I have only ever worked with majirel so a 7.21 would be ideal but don’t think that exists! 7.12 does and could mix with a 6 maybe .
 

ronray

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Thank you, I have only ever worked with majirel so a 7.21 would be ideal but don’t think that exists! 7.12 does and could mix with a 6 maybe .
I'm not too familiar with majirel. Do they have intensifiers/ mix tones?
 

Emmylou411

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Yes they do
I'm not too familiar with majirel. Do they have intensifiers/ mix tones?
yes they do have mixers, there is a blue and a Mauve. I never thought about this, only used the red one before to intensify a red tone.
 

ronray

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Yes they do

yes they do have mixers, there is a blue and a Mauve. I never thought about this, only used the red one before to intensify a red tone.
I trained with wella, and what I would do is for every 30g of 6.1 I'd add 2.5g of mix to tone.
So in this case I'd use 1.5g blue and 1g mauve
But I'm not 100%sure if L'Oréal follow the same rules
 

Emmylou411

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I trained with wella, and what I would do is for every 30g of 6.1 I'd add 2.5g of mix to tone.
So in this case I'd use 1.5g blue and 1g mauve
But I'm not 100%sure if L'Oréal follow the same rules
Ok great thanks for this, I shall look into it. I appreciate your help on this .
 

Dee5

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IMO the undercoat looks orange. So that’s a level 6.
with majirel and using the .1 ranges or the cool cover ranges you typically need to go up a shade. So if you are aiming for a 6 base, you would use 7.1
Ash will always appear darker.
Also don’t forget to check for porosity sensitivity as this can change your whole formula and application.

ideally I’d do an efassor cleanse with water just try bring that under coat up a little more, the pre colour as required then go in with my permanent.
 

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