Balayge or foils

[mjmhair]

Just curious how others might approach this situation.
Client got a bad "hairpainting" job and was referred to me to fix it.
two inches of regrowth level 4 and then it melts into solid caramel and a few lighter pieces and ends.
She wants a rooty look which is essentially what she has but the application was kind of terrible so the line of demarcation is ugly.
The issue I have is that I balayage about 90% of my clients and I don't see the balayage really breaking up that line enough. I don't want to paint V's of a low light or straddle in there because I need to get a lot more light pieces through it.
So I am thinking of going back to foiling her balyage some of the pieces in between, shampooing and then smudging her with a dark demi at the roots so I will have some of her natural and break through that line and still be able to get the ends lighter.
Thoughts?

 

[Claire Olsen]

Did you ever hear of a blur brush?

 

[adamlea87]

Is the demarcation from an all over colour? When the whole base needs correcting I tend to tackle that first, maybe basing with a demi and balayaging lowlights though the midlengths or blending it down to correct the line, then shampoo dry and rebalayage. I think if you feel that you can't fix it in one go then I would break it into two steps, I always get a better result when I do that x

 

[hairgaga]

You could do Baby lights around the face and part then go back & do a root drag to blend out the foils
Balayage in between and underneath

 

[mjmhair]

Is the demarcation from an all over colour? When the whole base needs correcting I tend to tackle that first, maybe basing with a demi and balayaging lowlights though the midlengths or blending it down to correct the line, then shampoo dry and rebalayage. I think if you feel that you can't fix it in one go then I would break it into two steps, I always get a better result when I do that x

The line of demarc is from lightner that was hairpainted. I am hoping not to mess with her base as its natural and she's not grey but a demi is a great idea.
I had not thought about balayaging the lows lights. and yes I told her to bring lunch cause she's going to be with me for awhile.

 

[mjmhair]

You could do Baby lights around the face and part then go back & do a root drag to blend out the foils
Balayage in between and underneath

yes agreed. I think as long as her face is framed right she will be much happier than she is now.

 

[Steven Robertson]

Just curious how others might approach this situation.
Client got a bad "hairpainting" job and was referred to me to fix it.
two inches of regrowth level 4 and then it melts into solid caramel and a few lighter pieces and ends.
She wants a rooty look which is essentially what she has but the application was kind of terrible so the line of demarcation is ugly.
The issue I have is that I balayage about 90% of my clients and I don't see the balayage really breaking up that line enough. I don't want to paint V's of a low light or straddle in there because I need to get a lot more light pieces through it.
So I am thinking of going back to foiling her balyage some of the pieces in between, shampooing and then smudging her with a dark demi at the roots so I will have some of her natural and break through that line and still be able to get the ends lighter.
Thoughts?

I would do exactly what you stated to chill out the line, and then mention that hair painting would be so pretty on her afterwards or on her next color. Set her up for some future excitement. But I agree, balayage probably won't break up that line. Foil and demo-glaze on the first appointment.

 

[mjmhair]

I would do exactly what you stated to chill out the line, and then mention that hair painting would be so pretty on her afterwards or on her next color. Set her up for some future excitement. But I agree, balayage probably won't break up that line. Foil and demo-glaze on the first appointment.

Thank you for the reply.
what do you like to gloss brunettes with Steven? I want to soften but not mute it too much. I stock color touch and shades but I have only really done demi's over my blond girls.

 

[Steven Robertson]

Thank you for the reply.
what do you like to gloss brunettes with Steven? I want to soften but not mute it too much. I stock color touch and shades but I have only really done demi's over my blond girls.

If she is a natural 4, and you highlighted all through that dark base with what, probably a lightener and 10 vol? I would probably glaze back over it with a Shades 6N for about 10 minutes on the first 1" of her root). It'll make her natural look like a much softer brown now. Any lighter and you'll have highlight lines going through her root. I don't let it fully process so it doesn't create a new line of demarkation. I would even consider taking little vertical-diagonal-back slivered sections on top and pulling some 6N + 7N + 7NB through that carmel area (where you finished applying the 6N glaze), to add some shadow dimension through the midsection and break up that solidity. And then just leave the ends.

Sometimes it's hard to type that kind of process out in to words. Is that coming off clear?

 

[tsparker78]

It's coming across clearly, but why not use clear to dilute shades and go with the full processing time? I'm always a little iffy about using shades eq this way, as it does seem to effect the longevity. Thoughts?

 

[Steven Robertson]

It's coming across clearly, but why not use clear to dilute shades and go with the full processing time? I'm always a little iffy about using shades eq this way, as it does seem to effect the longevity. Thoughts?

I don't like diluting shades at dark levels. It makes them too translucent. Before Redken came out with a 7N just barely, mixing a 6N + 8N to make a 7 would give you better coverage than diluting a 6 with clear to get a 7. Makes the pigment too soft. I mean, more translucency on levels 7+ can work in your favor, but when you're glazing back down highlights in to roots that are levels 6 and below, I feel like the better coverage prevents the "lines" from the foils showing.

I avoid full processing time to avoid a new line of demarkation from appearing where I stopped the shadow effect. If I diluted the level and let it process the full time, I'd be left with the appearance of highlights plus a line of demarkation still. I'm not necessarily looking for it to fully deposit to a 6 (in the example above), but just to dinge out and darken down the highlight. Basically to make it so the bright highlights stop reflecting light at the root when they're dry so they no longer look like highlights, but a softer brown tone. (or red, or gold or whatever tone). I've never had an issue with longevity. Maybe because the pre-lightened highlights hold on to the stain aspect of the demi pigment for a good 6 week period.

If I were using shades as an all over color, or a refresher for faded ends, this situation would be entirely different, as I would be fine diluting and processing for the full time to ensure longevity. I would be applying it to dry hair (instead of damp hair, like above) and possibly using heat (for reds and coppers).

 

[mjmhair]

If she is a natural 4, and you highlighted all through that dark base with what, probably a lightener and 10 vol? I would probably glaze back over it with a Shades 6N for about 10 minutes on the first 1" of her root). It'll make her natural look like a much softer brown now. Any lighter and you'll have highlight lines going through her root. I don't let it fully process so it doesn't create a new line of demarkation. I would even consider taking little vertical-diagonal-back slivered sections on top and pulling some 6N + 7N + 7NB through that carmel area (where you finished applying the 6N glaze), to add some shadow dimension through the midsection and break up that solidity. And then just leave the ends.

Sometimes it's hard to type that kind of process out in to words. Is that coming off clear?

yeah that makes perfect sense. I was def just going to use 10 vol so i dont get too light at the scalp on the hilights. And yes i line the idea of melting down with the 7N & 7NB is a great idea so i don't just get a foggy base with no melting down into lighter.

 

[mjmhair]

what steven said about the clear is true in my experience as well. Seems to be great on blondes.
But on the darker levels I have ended up with some of those tones that aren't necessarily bad but they are not a real definable color either. The level remains but the tones get kind of wacky.

It's coming across clearly, but why not use clear to dilute shades and go with the full processing time? I'm always a little iffy about using shades eq this way, as it does seem to effect the longevity. Thoughts?[/QUOT

 

[mjmhair]

It was actually in way worse shape than I thought from her pics.
This was about 7 hours monday and another 2 hours tonight but.....

i am pretty stoked on the results.