Base breaking

[HarryLovesColour]

Hi guys, I have a new client who I have just coloured today. She is a natural base 6 but appears lighter towards the front, more like a 7. She has had a full head of highlights with prelightener, and a 7/31 illumina tint around the outside of the packets to add a little extra richness. She hates roots and wants to come back in 4 weeks for a retouch, but it will not be long enough to put a foil into and do her roots (without overlapping). I am thinking of doing a base breaker - do you think something in illumina would be suitable for this? If so, what would you recommend? She wants to stay looking blonde and does not like excess warmth (she sees it as "red"). Many thanks X

 

[Steven Robertson]

Schwarzkopf 12-1 and 12-11 break bases beautifully with minimal warmth!

 

[HarryLovesColour]

Schwarzkopf 12-1 and 12-11 break bases beautifully with minimal warmth!

Ooh ok, what strength developer would you use with this? I don't want to convert her to a global blonde colour because she likes the natural look of highlights, i just want to really break up that pesky 4 week root shadow X

 

[Steven Robertson]

Just 20 vol. And watch it. 10 minutes or so for 1 level maybe a bit more of lift. If you bump too much, warmth will pop in. Don't be greedy! It will ash down any highlights it touches, but that ashyness will wash out. And honestly, I feel like most people both understand and prefer the ashyness.

 

[HarryLovesColour]

Thanks, that's great advice

Also interested in Illumina if anyone has used it in this way? I was thinking about possibly using something like 9/60 and 7/81 in equal parts with 6% if I go down this route. But would this still reveal too much warmth?

 

[cassies97]

Thanks, that's great advice

Also interested in Illumina if anyone has used it in this way? I was thinking about possibly using something like 9/60 and 7/81 in equal parts with 6% if I go down this route. But would this still reveal too much warmth?

You need to use a level 10 colour to break the base really as your formula would bring the highlights down to an 8 plus you need the extra ammonia in the 10 for a boost.

 

[HarryLovesColour]

You need to use a level 10 colour to break the base really as your formula would bring the highlights down to an 8 plus you need the extra ammonia in the 10 for a boost.

What about if I applied it as a root tint and let it fully develop (on new regrowth only), do you think it would come out like a clean 8?

 

[surf girl]

No it will glow

 

[HarryLovesColour]

No it will glow

Hm yeah that's what I was concerned about tbh

 

[cassies97]

What about if I applied it as a root tint and let it fully develop (on new regrowth only), do you think it would come out like a clean 8?

On dry hair with 9% it'd be gorgeous but as a base breaker or on dry with 6% it'd glow as surf girl said

 

[HarryLovesColour]

On dry hair with 9% it'd be gorgeous but as a base breaker or on dry with 6% it'd glow as surf girl said

Okay, well if I can get a nice clean result with 9% on dry hair then I think it would be the perfect solution for this client. The only thing is, I'm feeling nervous about using 9% with a root tint - I trained in Loreal, so when I think about using tint with 9% the first thing that springs to mind is exposing loads of warmth etc haha

However I trust your judgement! If you think 9/60 & 7/89 with 9% will give a good colour then I'm willing to try it

 

[cassies97]

Okay, well if I can get a nice clean result with 9% on dry hair then I think it would be the perfect solution for this client. The only thing is, I'm feeling nervous about using 9% with a root tint - I trained in Loreal, so when I think about using tint with 9% the first thing that springs to mind is exposing loads of warmth etc haha

However I trust your judgement! If you think 9/60 & 7/89 with 9% will give a good colour then I'm willing to try it

Don't worry with illumina and root glow... Using a lower developer however would result in root glow.

 

[surf girl]

I put 9.1 with 9% on my roots once (level 6 base not well a tho) and let it develop fully and it glowed, it was like an 8.3 it was awful, I'd use a double ash 10 with 3% for 10 mins to base break, base breaking is meant to shift the base 1 shade, the amount of ammonia in a 10 will pull the root up even with 3% and the double ash will control the gold

 

[hairbyjamie]

My 'go to' base breaker is 10/1 with 20vol at the basin for a few minutes after 2 shampoos and before conditioner. Works a treat every time. Wella kolleston btw

 

[cassies97]

I put 9.1 with 9% on my roots once (level 6 base not well a tho) and let it develop fully and it glowed, it was like an 8.3 it was awful, I'd use a double ash 10 with 3% for 10 mins to base break, base breaking is meant to shift the base 1 shade, the amount of ammonia in a 10 will pull the root up even with 3% and the double ash will control the gold

Illumina would've been such a saviour in that situation!

 

[Grace_Hair]

You can use the L'Oreal sunkissed oil as a base breaker.

 

[suse82]

I use 10-1 (igora) up to 10 mins watching like a hawk [emoji102]

 

[HarryLovesColour]

I use 10-1 (igora) up to 10 mins watching like a hawk [emoji102]

Which developer do you like to use for this? X

 

[suse82]

Kim vo says 10vol but that was him working on dry hair, so if it's wet I use 20vol and I have only ever applied it to wet hair.