Bleach and developer

#1
Last time I bleached my clients hair I left the bleach in for 50 minutes and it still hadn't lifted as much as I wanted, so I mixed up some new bleach and applied more on hair and left for another 5/10 minutes.

I used 6% could I use 12% instead so it develops quicker and I won't have to leave it on her hair so long? I know your not supposed to use higher but is it more damaging to leave a low % on for a long time rather than use a high %?

Her base is dark blonde/light brown she used to have a high lift tint which was ok but she wanted it to be even lighter .

Someone said to mix a little bleach in with the highlift tint, would this work? And be better than using bleach on its own? If so how much bleach would I add to the highlift tint and I presume I would have to add more developer too?

I would appriciate any advice :)
 

tsparker78

Well-Known Member
#2
Never put higher than 6% on anyone's scalp. What kind of bleach did you use? What kind of developer? How did you mix it? What level was your client?

Answering these questions will help us troubleshoot the service.

And to answer your question, no you should never mix bleach with highlift tint. It makes no sense to do so.

Also, I believe less damage and better hair integrity is achieved using a lower % developer for a longer amount of time.
 

cassies97

Well-Known Member
#3
Her base is dark blonde?

Dark blonde isn't professional terminology.
 

surf girl

Well-Known Member
#4
Agreed as above, don't put 12% on someone's scalp it's very likely to cause chemical burns, it's most likely your mixture was not right, also in most cases a scalp application will need toning afterward to achieve the actual desired outcome
 
#5
You can use 30 vol on the scalp, some salons will/can only use 20 so check your manufacturers instructions but you can absolutely use 9% on scalp. Makes a huge difference on my hair I once worked in a salon that would only use 20 vol and it did not lift enough at all.
 

Pancakes

Active Member
#6
I once got burned by a coworker with bleach and 30 vol. I don't suggest that. I was an apprentice then so I didn't know better and trusted him. I had to wait 4 months for my scalp to heal.
 

cassies97

Well-Known Member
#7
Definitely wouldn't put bleach on scalp with 9%.
 

Sugarplumfaery

Well-Known Member
#8
Hello, ok so I do an average of two to three scalp bleaches a week, sometimes more than that and I only use 6%.

I've had a look at some of your previous posts and they also seem to be bleach queries. You need to look at your product, what ratio your mixing too, and your application technique.

This is very important when using bleach as it's not like regular oxidative colour at all. If you start at the front, that will lift lighter. If you have a regrowth longer than six weeks, you will get a brighter root and banding.

I use the bricklaying technique and a spatula to apply to ensure accuracy and no overlap, starting at the nape and working up towards the crown. I use plenty of product, and once applied all over I use a plastic cap lightly over the top to keep some heat in. I even reapply after 20 minutes. Make sure you choose a lightener that doesn't dry out. And don't take it off too soon.

Bleaching is an art form I believe! I absolutely love it but also respect it as things can go horribly wrong very quickly.

You need to know your bleaching levels - I tend to go to a pale yellow (level 9) or palest yellow - 10. If you bleach past this to white then the hair will have no structure and break. Protein is yellow in Colour hence why you need to tone after a bleach and not completely remove it.

I think I read that you use the blondor white granular lightener. I personally prefer the blondor cream bleach or the blue blondor over the one you're using. I hope that helps.
 

#9
Thank you all for your reply,

Her base I would say is 7

I used :
Blondor soft blonde cream

Mixed 20ml cream blondor bleach with 40ml (double) 6% welloxon perfect peroxide
I mixed up another of the same batch just over half way as this wasn't enough.

Washed bleach out with anti oxidant shampoo and conditioner

Apply on wet/ damp hair :Used wella 9/60 half a 1/4 tube and wella 9 half a 1/4 with double the 1:2 pastel (30mls)

( left bleach on for about 50 mins, was a tiny bit yellow so I applied more new bleach for 5-10mims) washed out with anti oxi shampoo n conditioner then done toner left on for about a minute n was worried as went dark grey so washed out with water was still yellow so reapplied toner (same batch that was already mixed) left on for another minute then washed out shampoo n conditioner

It came out a really nice colour in the end but she felt her hair wasn't in as good condition as before when she had high lift, so I was just checking if there was anything I could do to help better the condition as I worry the more it gets bleached the worse her hair will get. She said her hair feels fine and normal now ( I'm dying her hair Thursday) it was just dry after having it dyed for a few weeks.

Maybe I left it on too long? I was just waiting for it to go a really pale whitish colour. Perhaps I'll try re applying after 20mins as advised.
 

tsparker78

Well-Known Member
#10
I think the problem was that you rinsed the toner to quickly. When you mix 9/60 and 9/0 you need to develop for at least 15 minutes. The 9/0 prevents the 9/60 from overtoning.
 

Sugarplumfaery

Well-Known Member
#11
No, it sounds like you've done everything correctly, right down to your toner choice... 9/60 does come up quite violet if left for too long, but usually takes between 5-15 minutes to tone. Everyone is different. Remember toning means that the hair might look overtoned but that's the colour working hence why it was still yellow when rinsed off too soon.

I tend to use 60g blondor cream to 120mls 6%. Are you sure she had level 7 hair? If she wanted to be lighter if already using a highlift, then bleach is your only option. Her hair will feel different to using highlift as you are using a bleaching product but that should have been made aware of during your consultation.

Please don't be disheartened. It sounds like you've done a great job. You don't need to sprinkle bleach into your highlift or go to 9 or 12%. You're using a great product that does help (it's still bleach) keep the condition during the process, and using anti-oxidant as well. Just be assertive when she comes in on for her appointment!
 

tsparker78

Well-Known Member
#12
I agree with everthing above. We've all washed a toner out to soon! Once you use the product a few times you'll get a hang of visual development time.
 
#13
I use the bricklaying technique and a spatula to apply to ensure accuracy and no overlap, starting at the nape and working up towards the crown.
What is "bricklaying technique"? Can you explain?
 

Sugarplumfaery

Well-Known Member
#14
You section the hair from ear across crown to other ear so you have two sections. Starting in the nape section at the top take thin sections in bricklaying effect working down the head.

Once your ready to do the top, section down the part line and continue this time working forwards towards the hairline leaving the hairline till very last.

Takes a little getting used too but I don't use any other method now. I hope you understand what I've written!
 
#15
Hi I'm not sure if its any good as I am yet to trial is but I have the wholesalers raving and trying to promote colour phlex. Apparently it's the same as olaplex and they have great reviews!
 

Sugarplumfaery

Well-Known Member
#16
Tweetypie, it's not the same, but there are lots of companies getting on the bandwagon. These new products seem to affect the surface of the hair rather than the internal structure
 

tsparker78

Well-Known Member
#17
Hi I'm not sure if its any good as I am yet to trial is but I have the wholesalers raving and trying to promote colour phlex. Apparently it's the same as olaplex and they have great reviews!
I assure you, it's not. The name alone screams cheap knock off. Olaplex is new technology. No other product has the ingredients or the results of Olaplex.
 
#18
Olaplex it is then!
 

tsparker78

Well-Known Member
#19
Trust me, you won't regret it! This first time I used it as just a stand alone treatment I was blown away.

I'm sure some of these knock off's are make decent conditioners, but that's all they are. Have they been tested? Mixed with every major tint and bleach out there? I doubt it.
 
#20
Well I will have to get them shipped in from the US but I think in the long run it will be worth it :)
 
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