Bleach disaster

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lberg

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Dec 4, 2013
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I'm a professional in France and I have a client who's hair is a complete disaster.
She normally has 2 different shades, dark on one side and the back, blonde on the other side (longer hair)
While a was on holiday, one of my staff bleached her hair twice with 6%, came out very brassy and toned with 10/16 and 10/89. Client was very unhappy and then she toned with a dark gray toner (kis colors) god knows why... 😱
It gets worse, because my client insisted on fixing it she then bleached again with a 9%.
She finally decided to disturb me during my holiday.
My client looks awful. The roots are pale yellow, the mids brassy, the ends white/blue...
This is the first time in my career that I have no idea how to fix thisbor if I can fix this.
My client has to go back to work on Saturday and wants it fixed before.
Help. Any ideas if this is fixable? Her ideal is a 12/96 koleston outcome...
I use wella and kiss in my salon.
 
I'm a professional in France and I have a client who's hair is a complete disaster.
She normally has 2 different shades, dark on one side and the back, blonde on the other side (longer hair)
While a was on holiday, one of my staff bleached her hair twice with 6%, came out very brassy and toned with 10/16 and 10/89. Client was very unhappy and then she toned with a dark gray toner (kis colors) god knows why... 😱
It gets worse, because my client insisted on fixing it she then bleached again with a 9%.
She finally decided to disturb me during my holiday.
My client looks awful. The roots are pale yellow, the mids brassy, the ends white/blue...
This is the first time in my career that I have no idea how to fix thisbor if I can fix this.
My client has to go back to work on Saturday and wants it fixed before.
Help. Any ideas if this is fixable? Her ideal is a 12/96 koleston outcome...
I use wella and kiss in my salon.
I'd work with foil. In fine sections. Apply blondor + 4% to the band let that lift to a pale yellow - same colour as the roots or even slightly lighter. Then apply blondor + 1. 9% to the roots and process until its all a level 10.
Just as this is ready to come off, apply blondor + warm water to the ends to remove as much of that white / blue tone.
Then I'd go over it with colour touch 10/0+ 9/97 + 1.9% add a small amount more of 10/0 before toning the very ends as it seems like they're porous.
If you use Olaplex or innoluxe or anything of the sort please use this! And only do the above if you genuinely think the hair is strong enough.

Do you have photos of the hair?
If you need any further help let me know.
 
>came out very brassy and toned with 10/16 and 10/89.

to me, that sounds like that the brassiness could have meant these toners were too light for the original tone. You mentioned her roots were yellow and her mids were brassy. If you meant her roots were yellow and her mids were yellow/copper then that would imply her mids are now about an 8 which would be why the colleague had an uneven toner.

If we go back to our level chart and our colour chart just remeber:
- Red vs green
- Gold vs violet
- Blue vs copper

Adding more colour to a section increases its ammount of pigment. So it can go darker. But adding a lighter toner then your haird colour won't do much to tone.

I magine your clients tonal levels are:
Roots: 9-10
Mids: 8 (Brassy can mean a lot of things but it sounds like that from what your're writing)
Ends: 10 (especially since you mentioned they absorbed the blue in the ash toner)

Any hair is fixable once you have a plan. Just look at each section individually and find a resolution for that section. Sometimes simplifying it makes it so much easier. 1+2=3

Roots: if they are light, add colour. You want the roots to be the darkest point so I would look at what you can do with the mids and ends to make this judgement
Mids: Foil? but do a hair strand test first. If it fails then I would tone it while alsobeing honest with your client. Show them the failed hair strand and come up with a plan on how to improve the integrity of the hair.
Ends: It's usually fine to keep them lighter but I would discuss with your client if they want their hair to have an ombre effect of if they want it solid of whatever.

Remember to have a plan for the integrity of the hair.

If you want to take anything positive from this, you're going to get the best rapport with your client. She will trust you like crazy after dealing with that. Colour corrections are an amazing thing. Just be mindful of your colour wheel and levels and you'll do great. You go this.
 

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