Bleach maximum times

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HairbyJess

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Hey everyone,

Hope you're all well. Just a quick question about bleach here. So next week I've got a client in for F/H highlights, has been a year since I did her colour last because of lockdowns etc so lots of regrowth and super thick hair šŸ˜ž With the repeated lockdowns and less practice resulting I've found my timing for putting in a FH of foils has just about doubled šŸ˜“ hairdressing is now not my main job either which doesn't help. Yes I have practice heads that I'm hoping to practice my speed on. Also I'm a perfectionist which doesn't help matters šŸ˜‚

Anyway.... What is the absolute maximum time you'd leave bleach foils on with a) 6% and b) 9%? I use matrix lightmaster bleach which I love and ALWAYS use bond ultim8 treatment in bleach too. Matrix officially say don't exceed 50 mins but I know that with years of experience you eventually get a feel for how long you can leave it without compromising hair condition, so shout out to all the pillars of wisdom out there on how long before I have to go back and take my first foils out. I usually do it by sight when I see they're done but would be good to have a rough idea of what point it starts to destroy the hair.

Thanks very much in advance šŸ˜Š
 
I would start with a low developer, mix fresh every 20 mins. After 30 mins I'd move up a strength. You could also invest in a meches system, the wella blondor meche system in particular cuts out after 40-50 mins so the lift is dramatically reduced after that time.
 
To be honest there is no specific amount of time you can leave lightener on, for example for coarse stronge hair can substain more lightening than finer hair.

The least damaging way is to lift the hair slower, so I rarely go over 20 volume in foils.

If it will take a long time to complete the application, you may have to rinse the foils as you are still working.

As you move past the yellow stage the keratin becomes more damaged by oxidation so just watch the colour between levels 8-10.
 

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