Brassy to ashy

[Georgina94x]

I'm hoping someone can help..I have a client who used to have pretty dark hair, I used to use the shade 55/66 wella KP on her. She then wanted to be blonde and went to a couple of salons had colour removers and highlights each time so she's had quite a lot done to it and it had obviously caused some damage, she came back to me and we did a treatment and a huge cut. She now wants to change her hair again as she's fed up of the colour which keeps going quite brassy which I've explained there's only so much the hair can be pushed and possibly isn't holding onto colour so well. I don't want to use permanent colour on her and I've also explained I'll try and get it as close to what she wants but there's still plenty of chance there's going to be brassiness, I'm just hoping that putting a mixture of lowlights in will make the overall colour seem less brassy. Could anyone suggest what I can use to get as close to this.. sorry for the long post just thought I best out the colour history on to help x

 

[ronray]

I'm hoping someone can help..I have a client who used to have pretty dark hair, I used to use the shade 55/66 wella KP on her. She then wanted to be blonde and went to a couple of salons had colour removers and highlights each time so she's had quite a lot done to it and it had obviously caused some damage, she came back to me and we did a treatment and a huge cut. She now wants to change her hair again as she's fed up of the colour which keeps going quite brassy which I've explained there's only so much the hair can be pushed and possibly isn't holding onto colour so well. I don't want to use permanent colour on her and I've also explained I'll try and get it as close to what she wants but there's still plenty of chance there's going to be brassiness, I'm just hoping that putting a mixture of lowlights in will make the overall colour seem less brassy. Could anyone suggest what I can use to get as close to this.. sorry for the long post just thought I best out the colour history on to help x

I would using something like colour touch 2parts 7/89 + 1part 8/81 + 0/66 for the lowlights. Or Illumina 2parts 7/81+ 1 part 8/69 + pastel.

After highlights then I'd tone it with colour touch 3parts 10/6 + 1part 9/16 + 1part 10/81

 

[Georgina94x]

Thank you! She also wants to dark root look so I'm thinking maybe put that on afterwards and blend it through? With everything she wants she kind of wants to keep it cheap as possible, is there a conversion to xp100? Can't seem to find many in that range. I have explained it's going to be pricey but with not doing hair full time at the moment I don't want to have colours sat there if they're not going to get used either unless any of them can make a nice mix for a nice grey look. Thanks for your help to, you always give great advice on here x

 

[ronray]

Thank you! She also wants to dark root look so I'm thinking maybe put that on afterwards and blend it through? With everything she wants she kind of wants to keep it cheap as possible, is there a conversion to xp100? Can't seem to find many in that range. I have explained it's going to be pricey but with not doing hair full time at the moment I don't want to have colours sat there if they're not going to get used either unless any of them can make a nice mix for a nice grey look. Thanks for your help to, you always give great advice on here x

I believe between us we could convert it. Not that familiar with xp100 but I'm sure we can work it out.
She's kind of asking for a lot to then mention she wants it as cheap as possible . Remember not to undersell yourself.
Make sure her expectations are realistic before you start doing anything to her hair.
I'd also be transparent about the fact that it is going to fade. And yes it probably will fade warmer. Give advice around how she can prolong the colour. Recommend a good toning shampoo. Etc

 

[Georgina94x]

I believe between us we could convert it. Not that familiar with xp100 but I'm sure we can work it out.
She's kind of asking for a lot to then mention she wants it as cheap as possible . Remember not to undersell yourself.
Make sure her expectations are realistic before you start doing anything to her hair.
I'd also be transparent about the fact that it is going to fade. And yes it probably will fade warmer. Give advice around how she can prolong the colour. Recommend a good toning shampoo. Etc

I've seen a few I think maybe similar but I overthink haha and I know, I hate pricing specially when they've been complaining about salon prices infront of me I've explained that I'll try my best and said it will more than likely fade warm so she's prepared but she's adamant she wants it I've also said certain shampoos and not looking after her hair can play a huge part in maintaining it, I told her a while ago I wasn't touching her hair until she started to look after it properly, I warned her before she messed with it from going dark and that's why she went somewhere else and she regrets it now cause of the damage, I just hope she listens this time

 

[Lillyann94]

I would using something like colour touch 2parts 7/89 + 1part 8/81 + 0/66 for the lowlights. Or Illumina 2parts 7/81+ 1 part 8/69 + pastel.

After highlights then I'd tone it with colour touch 3parts 10/6 + 1part 9/16 + 1part 10/81

Hi Ron ray,

Ive just switched to using wella. My mum is turning grey and doesnt wsnt her hair being bkeaxh much longer. We bkeached it today to a paleish yellow ans i used 10g 10/6 + 10g 8/81 and 5g 10/0 in colour touch with pastel. It hasnt cancelled out any of the tellow tones despote me leaving it for 15 mins. Do you have any other formula suggestions? She is going grey and id say 95% salt and pepper but she doesn't like the 'pepper' of it but also hates the yellow her hair is lifting to now its turning grey.
Shall i have used a 10vol nstead of the 1.9% pastel wella reccomends? Im also worrying about growing her greys out as her hair wont be a even canvas and even garder to tone

Thanks if you can help!

 

[ronray]

Hi Ron ray,

Ive just switched to using wella. My mum is turning grey and doesnt wsnt her hair being bkeaxh much longer. We bkeached it today to a paleish yellow ans i used 10g 10/6 + 10g 8/81 and 5g 10/0 in colour touch with pastel. It hasnt cancelled out any of the tellow tones despote me leaving it for 15 mins. Do you have any other formula suggestions? She is going grey and id say 95% salt and pepper but she doesn't like the 'pepper' of it but also hates the yellow her hair is lifting to now its turning grey.
Shall i have used a 10vol nstead of the 1.9% pastel wella reccomends? Im also worrying about growing her greys out as her hair wont be a even canvas and even garder to tone

Thanks if you can help!

If it's yellow you're fighting your formula doesn't have enough violet in it. Change your formula to 8/81 + 9/16 or 9/96 with colour touch 1.9% emulsion on towel dried hair.

How dark is your mum's hair to start with and what's your bleach formula?

 

[Lillyann94]

If it's yellow you're fighting your formula doesn't have enough violet in it. Change your formula to 8/81 + 9/16 or 9/96 with colour touch 1.9% emulsion on towel dried hair.

How dark is your mum's hair to start with and what's your bleach formula?

Thanks so much for the reply. Im a bit scared to use violet as a few months ago i upped the ciolet ans its turned a purple hue (was with a different colour line though as no wella was in my shop)
My mums hair is naturally a 7 and i use L'Oréal blonde studio & 20vol but not loving the results from this bleach so much. It lifts her to a yellow. Thanks i will try this formula and see how i get on. Would you not put no base in that?