Brush Control When Using Gel.

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geeg

Judge Gigi-Honorary Geek
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Using a pre-mixed or Gel product for making nail enhancements requires a completely different brush technique to Liquid/Powder enhancements. The way you hold the brush will be slightly different and the angles at which you work with the brush are also different. In fact the brush is different being made of synthetic bristles rather than natural hair, which would be too soft to support the product.

As with anything, there are many techniques that can be employed to make a beautiful result with gel. I will detail a couple of them but if you are working and making beautiful enhancements using a technique that is different to the ones I mention, then don’t change. If however you have not got a set routine then some of the ideas listed may help you to develop your own style and efficient way of working.

Gel products vary, as do the products in other systems. There are many gels that are generic (basically all bought from the same manufacturer and labeled by the supplier) and there are others that are branded and still another with very new technology and patented chemistry. They all have their own different ‘feel’ and characteristics and you as the technician must be adaptable to change and learn how to work differently if you decide to change from one system to another.

Some gels hold their shape, some are runny, some become surface smooth when cured under the UV lamp and others tend to pool or self-level, some are very sticky and stringy and some are not. Some gels are ‘one component’ and some are three component. This really means that the system uses one gel for every layer or three different gels to be employed for each different layer.

Whatever type of gel you use, the steps to making an enhancement of one colour are the same: The first layer (generally known as the Bonder Layer) is thin; the second layer (generally known as the Builder Layer is thicker), and the final layer (generally known as the Finishing Layer or top coat glossy layer which is thin). Each layer necessitates a different brush technique.

The Bonder Layer

The grip on the brush is as normal (as described in Brush Control Part 1 – Getting a grip) and the angle of the brush when working is similar to painting a nail.

The bonder layer is always thin and brushed well onto the nail surface. Some describe it as ‘scrubbing’ the gel onto the surface – but that description always makes me cringe at the thought of the brush doing the scrubbing! Not good for the brush! I prefer to describe the brushing technique as similar to painting a wall with a brush and emulsion paint. You never paint in one direction only, but in several directions working the paint smoothly onto the wall. Similarly, this is how you will ‘work’ the gel onto the nail plate when doing this first bonder layer. Always make sure that you have control of the brush and never let the gel touch the skin surrounding the nail plate. If you like you can finish off your brushing in one direction from eponychium to free edge making sure you also carry the gel along the sides and the free edge. Cure under the UV Lamp that belongs to your system and for the recommended time for your system.

Particular attention should be paid to making sure that every layer of gel is brushed onto the sides and free edge of the nail to ensure the entire nail is encased in gel. If you neglect this step, the gel will tend to split away or chip away from the free edge area later. Remember that gels tend to shrink or pull away from where you have placed them when curing, so you must compensate for this trait by ‘capping’ the end of the nail.

The Builder Layer - Technique number I

The grip on the brush is as normal and the angle of the brush when working is perpendicular or at a right angle to the nail. (Handle straight up in the air)

This is the layer where things get very different to Liquid/Powder technique. The reason for this is that gel is a totally different medium and being sticky, it is not possible to pat it into the shape you want. Instead you must ‘tease’ it into the shape you want and very delicately.

Take a scoop of gel onto your brush and then laying the bristles of the brush across zone 2, twizzle or twist the brush out of the bead depositing the bead in zone 2. The bead should be about the size of a ‘petit pois’, or very small pea, for the index middle and ring finger; slightly larger for the thumb and smaller for the pinky finger.

Your brush should be in a nice point and now holding it with the handle straight up in the air you will use only the point of the brush to move parts of the bead where you want them, leaving the bulk of the bead in zone 2 where you want the apex.

The important thing is not to let the point of the brush come into contact with the nail plate. It should stay on or near the surface of the bead and ‘drag’ the gel to the area you wish to cover. If you let the brush come into contact with the nail plate, the surface of your enhancement will be lumpy and full of ridges, which will only have to be filed out later.

So lets get back to the bead sitting in zone 2 waiting to be moved. I start at the left hand side of the bead (lefties may want to start on the right) and using the point of my brush I drag some of the gel from my main bead, up the side of the nail plate to the eponychium and leave it there. I go back to the bead and drag more gel up to the eponychium and so on until zone 3 is evenly covered. Next I start again on the left and drag the gel down the left hand side of zone 1 making sure I cover the edge. I then go back and do the same again working my way across the tip until it is covered evenly. The last move is to make sure that the free edge is ‘capped’ or covered with gel. This you can do by simply brushing gently along the edge of the tip with the gel on your brush.

It is worth having a good look at what you have done from all angles to see if there is anything you need to correct or any ‘dips’ that need to be filled, before curing under the UV Lamp.

If you need to fill a gap or a dip, simply touch the point of your brush to the gel on one side of the dip, pick it up and then touch the other side of the dip with the point of the brush. Doing this will pick up a small strand of gel and deposit it where you want it. You may do this as many times as you need to fill the gap … but a warning … the less you ‘play’ with the gel the better. Less is definitely more with gel or you can get into more difficulties than you want.

When satisfied, cure under the UV Lamp that belongs to your system and for the recommended time for your system. You may add a second builder layer of gel if needed.

After curing, wipe away the sticky inhibition layer of gel with a lint free pad and the recommended solution for your system.

Using a 180 grit abrasive, gently shape and refine the enhancement.

The Builder Layer - Technique number II

The technique I personally use is what I call the 'log' technique and for me this builds a central vertical apex down the whole length of the nail for great strength and also a beautifully rounded C curve.

Take a scoop of gel onto your brush and then laying the bristles of the brush
vertically down the centre of the nail, twist the bead out of the brush so it forms a log down the centre of the whole nail.

Your brush should be in a nice point and now holding it with the handle straight up in the air you will use only the point of the brush to move parts of the bead where you want them, leaving the bulk of the bead in centre of the nail where you want the apex.

Working from the central 'log' of gel and starting at the Eponychium, 'tease' the product out and to one side of the nail and then the same on the other side making sure not to let the product come into contact with the skin.

It is worth having a good look at what you have done from all angles to see if there is anything you need to correct or any ‘dips’ that need to be filled, before curing under the UV Lamp.

When satisfied, cure under the UV Lamp that belongs to your system and for the recommended time for your system. You may add a second builder layer of gel if needed.

After curing, wipe away the sticky inhibition layer of gel with a lint free pad and the recommended solution for your system.

Using a 180 grit abrasive, gently shape and refine the enhancement.


The Top Coat Gloss

The grip on the brush is as normal and the angle of the brush when working is similar to painting a nail.

One of the things that makes gels popular with clients is the permanent nature of the glossy surface of the enhancement. As gels do not break down easily with solvents, the Top Coat Gloss will stay beautifully shiny even after enamel has been removed.

Once all dust has been removed after filing, apply your Finishing Layer of gel. This layer is pretty much applied as you would apply nail enamel making sure the sides and free edge are covered.

When satisfied, cure under the UV Lamp that belongs to your system and for the recommended time for your system.

Note:

  1. A different brush technique is used for the builder layer when using the new technology gels from Creative Nail Design. Brisa Gels™ are not as sticky as generic gels and can be manipulated in a different way.
  2. It is also important to note that there are many different types of gel. It is always a good thing to do a class with the supplier of your chosen products. It only makes sense to let them teach you the techniques that work best for their system.
Important things to remember:


Make sure you 'cap', or cover, the sides and the free edge of the nail enhancement with every layer of gel.

Always keep uncured gel off both the client's and your skin.

There is a tendency to apply gels too thinly. Make sure that your gel enhancements are as strong as a liquid and powder enhancement by giving them the same strength over the stress area.
 
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Most excellent....this has answered some of my problems areas... :Love: em
 
This is such brilliant advice and clealry explained.

Thanks

Debra
 
Gigi,

I am definately getting there with your help! :lol: Thanks so much.

Lulu
 
Thanks, lovely put, like a refresh, makes me realise i have picked up bad habits over time got lazy.
Debbie
 
Always love the finish of Gel, thanks for interesting tips. but I do find gel is much more difficult to remove, any tips. Linda
 
Thanks Geeg, I have finally realised that I need to angle my brush differently. Very well explained and easy to understand
 
brill.. printed and filled along with the others...until your book comes out..lol
 
hey gigi,
excellent advice wasnt sure if i was manipulating gel properly now i have a better understanding thanks for advice
keevs
 
Very well explained. Now see why my gels are lifting. Couldn't remember and retain everything at my Brisa gel course, so this is a grea follow-on.
 
please can you explain how to apply the white in zone 1 usinf briza gel and how to perfect the smile line...oh the problem i'm having is putting me off using it..please help....
 
Thanks so much, i was having a terrible time with gel, it wasn't lasting very long & after reading this, i now have a good idea of what i may be doing wrong. Bless you.

Lynn Victoria x
 
am new to here and nails - this is brillant!
 
hi this is my first time on the site. wondered if i can get ome advise on how to apply high gloss gel over acrylics.:confused: . foz
 
Hi Foz
would you mind filling out your profile please so we can see which products you use, it will help with replying as different products require different applications.
 
:green: Thanks for posting this, good advice:lol:
 
Thanks for the great tut.. :O)

I have read this over and over again lol... Do many find that using a flat end brush more difficult than a brush with a point for gel ?????
 
Thank you for your excellent explanation. Do you have any video on Youtube? It would be worth putting one. When using one's own nail polish with gels, I understand one puts it on top of the gel-top coat. Then can you use a gel top coat on top of the nail polish? or how do you get a permanent polish over nail polish please?
 
Thank you for your excellent explanation. Do you have any video on Youtube? It would be worth putting one. When using one's own nail polish with gels, I understand one puts it on top of the gel-top coat. Then can you use a gel top coat on top of the nail polish? or how do you get a permanent polish over nail polish please?

No you can't put gel over normal polish.
You can use a gel polish or the wonderful Shellac from CND for instant dry and permanent shine.
 
THANKS SO MUCH !!! This was VERY helpful !
 

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