Quantcast

Canceling brass/yellow base break

SalonGeek

Help Support SalonGeek:

BriBriBarn

New Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2019
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Chicago
Hi,

So I have a client that is about a level 7 naturally, highlighted to about a level 9. We tried a base bump/ base brake on her, about an inch of new growth.
I used schwarzkopf blondme lifting ice, which I’ve used on other clients around the same level and it shifts well and less warmth.
This client lifted unfortunately more brassy/gold, and she prefers to be cooler (I did warn her she could lift warmer with base brake)
I then tried neutralizing with Shades EQ 9P, and while it was still a little warm, it neutralized. I had a feeling she would eventually think it’s still too warm for her and I thought the shades EQ might not have been strong enough or stay in her hair. So I anticipated her calling back a couple days later.

My gut is saying try Wella color touch relights /86 to try canceling out the warmth and hopes that it will stay in her hair until the next round of highlights. Or perhaps 10/81?
Or trying like Illumina 10/69?

My salon is mostly Wella, does anyone have suggestions on what I can use to neutralize?

It seems so simple, but I’m stumped
 
Last edited:

Haircutz

Super Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Premium Geek
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Messages
10,473
Reaction score
6,710
Location
West Cork, Ireland
To be honest, I’ve never understood the point of base breaking and would genuinely love to understand the reasoning behind it. I know it’s a popular service in the States but I don’t know any European hairdressers that routinely offer it.

As far as I can tell, you just lift it enough to expose the underlying colour pigment and then tone at that level?
If it’s yellow brass, then you can’t have lifted it beyond an 8 so you’d need to use a level 8 tint to neutralise it as I don’t think there is enough colour pigment in a 10 to neutralise or even subdue it.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2015
Messages
2,347
Reaction score
1,107
Location
South Wales
Hi,

So I have a client that is about a level 7 naturally, highlighted to about a level 9. We tried a base bump/ base brake on her, about an inch of new growth.
I used schwarzkopf blondme lifting ice, which I’ve used on other clients around the same level and it shifts well and less warmth.
This client lifted unfortunately more brassy/gold, and she prefers to be cooler (I did warn her she could lift warmer with base brake)
I then tried neutralizing with Shades EQ 9P, and while it was still a little warm, it neutralized. I had a feeling she would eventually think it’s still too warm for her and I thought the shades EQ might not have been strong enough or stay in her hair. So I anticipated her calling back a couple days later.

My gut is saying try Wella color touch relights /86 to try canceling out the warmth and hopes that it will stay in her hair until the next round of highlights. Or perhaps 10/81?
Or trying like Illumina 10/69?

My salon is mostly Wella, does anyone have suggestions on what I can use to neutralize?

It seems so simple, but I’m stumped
Definitely sounds like you need an 8.
Try kp 8/96 and pastel.
Or illumina 8/69 and pastel.
 
Last edited:

ronray

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2015
Messages
2,347
Reaction score
1,107
Location
South Wales
If you want to try something totally different, you could also use colour touch instamatics muted mauve with 1.9% be careful not to overlap
 

Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
9
Reaction score
3
Location
Canada
Lifting from 7 to 8ish often pulls orange and needs pearl, not violet, to tone.

I've never had luck with relights tbh, the results are inconsistent and sometimes imperceptibly faint, and most relights use situations would probably be better served by a non oxidative tone/gloss

but wella ct 10/81 + smidge of /88 should tone without darkening the base

I've found ct 8s tend to deposit like 7+s so wouldn't rec ct at 8 level on its own but a lil bit of 8/81 (or even 7/89) as a booster is good for some extra smokiness
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2015
Messages
2,347
Reaction score
1,107
Location
South Wales
If she's starting with a 7 and lifts it, it can't be a 7? Which is why we think an 8 would be more appropriate to tone, so in this case you would need violet. If she is showing orange then either the clients natural base is darker than a 7 or the hair isn't lifted, and that's all she's done is exposed the underlying warmth. Which in that case you would use blue-violet, as the undertones on a base 7 would be orange - yellow.
 
Last edited:

Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
9
Reaction score
3
Location
Canada
"Exposing the underlying warmth" is exactly what happens when you lift from a 7 to an 8 - lifting one level is by definition fairly subtle and often (particularly if the base is ashy) shifts hue more significantly than it lightens. Blue-violet then takes you to a neutral-to-warm 8, but if your end goal is more in the ash range it's counterproductive. You'd have to throw in something ash to counteract the pinkishness in the blue-violet anywway so better to just leave that pinkishness out to begin with and just do a straight blue.
 

Haircutz

Super Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Premium Geek
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Messages
10,473
Reaction score
6,710
Location
West Cork, Ireland
If you’re lifting from a 7 that’s an ashy base, why would you end up with a warm 8?
Also, the undertone of 8 is yellow not orange. If it’s got orange tones, it’s still a 7.

I agree with @ronray and use a blue-violet or violet to tone. You’ll end up with a horrible khaki colour if you tone an 8 with a blue. o_O
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2015
Messages
2,347
Reaction score
1,107
Location
South Wales
If you’re lifting from a 7 that’s an ashy base, why would you end up with a warm 8?
Also, the undertone of 8 is yellow not orange. If it’s got orange tones, it’s still a 7.

I agree with @ronray and use a blue-violet or violet to tone. You’ll end up with a horrible khaki colour if you tone an 8 with a blue. o_O
I thought I was going crazy for a second!
I kept running it over in my head and kept thinking "if you put blue on intense yellow you'd get green!"
 

Latest posts

Top