Cancelling out copper

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Emmylou411

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Hey, I am a qualified hairdresser and am looking for a second opinion in my decision please. I have a client who had inch 1/2 regroup base 6 and ends faded 7.45 I shall post a pic of now and what she wants- she wants to be a light ash brown all over. The sides and underneath were shaved last time and so that’s all natural now. I am thinking to put 7.11 all over to try and achieve this and mute out the copper. Does anyone thing this may become to muddy or flat looking on her natural? But it’s needed for the copper! Shall I go safe and do 1/2 7.1, 1/2 7 or even 8 because she does t want it to darken xx I explained by getting rid of the gold she will feel darker as won’t get the light reflecting the warm tones
 

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Kw88

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Personally I’d gently cleanse that copper out.
After a few weeks that warmth is going to creep back through otherwise.
Agreed you would need to do different on the root to the ends. The 8 May come out warmer though as your shifting her base and exposing the underlying tone!
 

Emmylou411

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Thanks for your reply, ok yes that’s a good shout for the cleanse. And yes your right about the 8 thank you. Perhaps il do a cleanse, then depending on that, 7.1 or 7.11 on warm ends and 7 +7.1 on natural maybe x
 

Kw88

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Much better option :)
Be careful on using too intense ash after cleanse Incase it goes green!
May only need violet rather than blue!
Hope all goes well x
 

Emmylou411

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Much better option :)
Be careful on using too intense ash after cleanse Incase it goes green!
May only need violet rather than blue!
Hope all goes well x
Much better option :)
Be careful on using too intense ash after cleanse Incase it goes green!
May only need violet rather than blue!
Hope all goes well x
thank you for your help x
 

ronray

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I agree with having to lift out the excess tone. I'd probably be inclined to lift it to a level 8 first, so there's no orange left.
Then tone back down with 7.1 with added violet - this will help with stopping the green hue and give more of an ash /mushroom brown.
 

adamlea87

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I think I'd be asking more about what the client likes about the photo. If it is the silvery lengths and ends they need to pre-lightened to a level 9 or 10 very pale yellow to support a true ash shade. You have to lighten the hair a good two levels lighter than target for a true ash tone, and putting any permanent colour on level 6 coarse hair will expose so much orange pigment.
 

Emmylou411

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Thanks for your reply.. it isn’t the silvery tones that she is particularly interested in getting as shown in the picture, she just stated she would like a nice light brown preferably with an ash tone to it rather than warm. She understands she isn’t going to achieve it in one go as I’ve explained going from such a rich copper colour it’s hard to then go straight to a flat ash colour without distressing the hair in some way. She also sent me a pic of a 7.0 which is just a flat basic light brown ( or blonde in our terms!) so I believe it’s more giving her a more natural cool brown colour x
 

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adamlea87

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Ok I think what I would do in your situation is explain to the client the limits of what you can achieve with different colours and manage her expectations. Really you need to remove that copper before you do anything else.

After that she has three options:
- use a level 6 ash demi, this will cover the warmth but this will look darker
- use a level 7 ash permanent but this will still look warm on the roots, whatever the manufacturers tell you, she will lift with orange pigmentation.
- use a mixture of demi and highlights

If it was my client I would probably try and get them to do number 3.
1) remove the orange ends with a mild bleach bath or cleanse.
2) add foils either highlights or backcombed with bleach until pale yellow
3) apply a level 6 demi on the rest of the hair
4) tone the foils with a level 8 ash.

I feel this would give the most natural ash look without being too dark, on her hair considering her existing colour, natural base and texture.
Of course it would be a decision between you and your client. She might not want to pay for so much work and have a darker color. Or be slightly lighter with a tint and accept some warmth instead of ash.

But I think the most important thing is being honest and realist with the client otherwise they can be disappointed.

That's my honest opinion anyway, hope that helps!
 
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