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Client wants super white!

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AJSinger

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Hi everyone, I have attached some photos below to make it easier to explain. I have never done this girl's hair before, she is a friend of a friend. She is not happy with what her hairdresser has done. She just asked for "Blonde" apparently but it looks like she has had some darker level 7 or 8 tones put through maybe? Or it has been toned and faded, not lifted that well and just gone a bit patchy, not sure, looks too dark to me. She told me she just usually has a full head of foils. Her goal is the super white image. (I have pre warned her this might have to be done over a few sessions if I feel her hair is not in great condition) I am going to have a look at her hair hopefully tomorrow because I think it looks slightly damaged and dry in places which worries me and there are all sorts of different tones in there which look different in every photo. Anyway, I am yet to find out if she wants to keep her natural root look and go for the balayage. If that is the case, I was going to go through the hair and pick out the darker tones, lift them with Bleach and 20 or 30vol (Depending on their depth when I see it in the flesh) in foils using a balayage technique. Checking the foils as I am going to rinse any off that are already processed/lifted to my goal level so they don't over cook and damage the hair. I Know that makes it a long appointment but I would rather get off any that are done mid way than just leave it to cook and the hair fall out or become extremely damaged, and I will explain that to her. I feel like I need to lift to a level 10 so I can tone with either a 10/69 or 10/81. Depending how it goes but I can see it being more brassy than yellow so I am thinking 10/81. I have seen some hairdressers online mixing 9/6 with a 10/81 before and it looks so lovely and cool like how this client is asking. I also use Chromaplex with all of my colours and will recommend she uses a toning shampoo after the treatment along with deep conditioners. Thanks for your time and hope to hear back from someone soon :)
 

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ronray

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Hi everyone, I have attached some photos below to make it easier to explain. I have never done this girl's hair before, she is a friend of a friend. She is not happy with what her hairdresser has done. She just asked for "Blonde" apparently but it looks like she has had some darker level 7 or 8 tones put through maybe? Or it has been toned and faded, not lifted that well and just gone a bit patchy, not sure, looks too dark to me. She told me she just usually has a full head of foils. Her goal is the super white image. (I have pre warned her this might have to be done over a few sessions if I feel her hair is not in great condition) I am going to have a look at her hair hopefully tomorrow because I think it looks slightly damaged and dry in places which worries me and there are all sorts of different tones in there which look different in every photo. Anyway, I am yet to find out if she wants to keep her natural root look and go for the balayage. If that is the case, I was going to go through the hair and pick out the darker tones, lift them with Bleach and 20 or 30vol (Depending on their depth when I see it in the flesh) in foils using a balayage technique. Checking the foils as I am going to rinse any off that are already processed/lifted to my goal level so they don't over cook and damage the hair. I Know that makes it a long appointment but I would rather get off any that are done mid way than just leave it to cook and the hair fall out or become extremely damaged, and I will explain that to her. I feel like I need to lift to a level 10 so I can tone with either a 10/69 or 10/81. Depending how it goes but I can see it being more brassy than yellow so I am thinking 10/81. I have seen some hairdressers online mixing 9/6 with a 10/81 before and it looks so lovely and cool like how this client is asking. I also use Chromaplex with all of my colours and will recommend she uses a toning shampoo after the treatment along with deep conditioners. Thanks for your time and hope to hear back from someone soon :)
There looks like there's more than meets the eye here. Definitely take a strand test. Seems like balayage would be a good start. Concentrate on getting the ends light first as this is usually the area where the hair has the most build up.
Toning is something that you can't really formulate until you know how the hair will lift.
 

AJSinger

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I am hopefully seeing her tomorrow so I will steal some hair to test haha !! I think I will have to explain to her that to end up with that result it will take more than one session. I know I need to tone on sight but I just wondered what people thought of that toner. Seems to have great results, I have used it before a few times on one client I see regularly but I know every hair is different! Thank you :)
 

ronray

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I am hopefully seeing her tomorrow so I will steal some hair to test haha !! I think I will have to explain to her that to end up with that result it will take more than one session. I know I need to tone on sight but I just wondered what people thought of that toner. Seems to have great results, I have used it before a few times on one client I see regularly but I know every hair is different! Thank you :)
If I was to achieve that colour my go to would be colour touch 2 parts 10/6+ 1part 8/81 but obviously tweek it depending on what you're applying it to.
 

AJSinger

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Thank you. How comes you put a level 8 toner on ? The picture she has sent me is super light and looks like I need To get to a level 10, will mixing 8 in there dull it down ? I have used 9 and 10 base toners together Before but never 8? Not questioning you by the way I genuinely am curious because I didn’t think that was how toners worked. Thanks so much for your knowledge. :)
 

ronray

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Thank you. How comes you put a level 8 toner on ? The picture she has sent me is super light and looks like I need To get to a level 10, will mixing 8 in there dull it down ? I have used 9 and 10 base toners together Before but never 8? Not questioning you by the way I genuinely am curious because I didn’t think that was how toners worked. Thanks so much for your knowledge. :)
To get the amount of tone you need to get that silver secondary tone on the white hair needs a bigger die load than what a level 10 toner will have.
Mixing 2 parts 10/6 + 1 part 8/81 is essentially the same as mixing 9 something with 10 something.
For example 10/81 on a level 10 will give you a white colour.
10/6 + 8/81 will give you a level 9 icy ash.
Try it on your strand test ;) see what you think. I'll see if I can find a pic of a client I've used it for.
 

ronray

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Here's what 10/6 and 8/81 loos like :)
 

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AJSinger

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That looks delicious !! Thanks so much

So did you lift that to a level 10 ?
 

ronray

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AJSinger

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Thank you. I think she is going to another salon, I have not heard anything. I Hope they treat her hair well! Oh well
 

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