Color issues

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Cheyannej45

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Hi,

This past weekend I had a new client come in for a color service. She had about 1 1/2- 2 inches of new growth. She is a natural level 9 and wants to be dark. We chose a level 6N and i used 20 volume developer with it. I applied to the new growth first and then went back and applied to the rest of the hair. It processed for 30 minutes and everything was processing perfectly. Once I rinsed the color out it didn’t grab on to the new growth. I went in with level 5 to see if that would help. As soon as I rinsed it out it didn’t take as well. So I applied a level 4 on her and it took ash/ brown or know as a very mucky brown color. So I advised her to come back the next day and I would be able to clarify her hair and try again. We ended up using a 4rb + 5mm to tone it but it still was lighter.

I was informed that the client wasn’t on any medications but used a Shea moisture curl smoother on her hair.

Why in the world would color not take to complete Virgin hair?
Please help
 
You should only attempt this if you are a qualified hairdresser because from what you’ve written, you’re either doing this as a total diy-er or you’ve not done much colour training.

It’s actually really straightforward to go from light to dark but you have to take into account the underlying pigment in a level 6 when formulating your tint.

Also, think about what job the developer needs to do before deciding what strength to choose. Do you know what ‘hot roots’ are?
 
I am a licensed cosmetologist. I have never had any problem with “hot roots” before as I’m just 1 1/2 years out of school. This was the first time that it had happened to me. I wasn’t sure if it was a problem with the color line or her hair wasn’t taking the color. But i have learned a lot from this situation. Thank you for helping realize what had happened.
 

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