Colour advice needed

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sabby33

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Please no negative comments, I'm a graduate hairdresser from before lockdown so I'm trying to regain my knowledge. A friend asked me to colour her hair (picture from before and after below) she wanted all over scalp bleach (she had overgrown roots with bottom bleach hair already, she did her bleach at home and then put a permanentbox dye on top, though it was awhike ago hence the root growth) so I did that at 20 vol following manufacters instructions then used wella colour touch 10/81 to tone but roots were still light and some gingery tones, and top half different colour to bottom though she states niw she doesn't like it bright and wants a dark blonde (or close to color bleach she had before) put all over it, I'm not sure what toner to use? She is 22 next week and wants me to sort it out this weekend to have it looking reasonable, to be fair her roots are very light
 

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ronray

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The second picture looks quite a lot warmer, what did the root lift to?
The ends look warmer too? Was it just 10/81 for the toner? Over the lighter ends I would have expected that to have gone a very cool blonde.
 

sabby33

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Root lifted to a silver/white, had ginger off tones, it had white running through it, yes the ends went darker, I just used a 10/81 toner all over, I don't understand why bottom went darker? Now she wants it all toned to a dark blonde and with the different colours I'm wondering what colours to use? She wants it done tomorrow?
 

adamlea87

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When clients lighten their hair at home, they usually are unable to lift their hair to a level 10 due to the home-products not being stong enough & lack of technique.

What I believe has happerned is that you lightened the hair to a lighter level than the lengths and ends. When you then tone the hair with an ash toner, the top looks ash, but the ends still look warm since they were not light enough for the toner. The contrast between ash & warm tones makes it look even more contrasting.

I do believe that this is more noticable in the second photo due to it being taken in direct sunlight making the ends look very warm.

Try to think in terms of what is your target shade? For example is it a 9-gold or gold/beige?

Lets say you want to see a level 9 gold beige, first is their any ash tone left in the hair or has it all washed out now?

If their is still some ash you first need to remove it with a mild bleach bath (since ash tones are incompatable with gold tones)

Once the ash toner is removed you can then re-tone with the level 9 gold-beige toner. Apply to the roots-mids first and once almost ready then go over the porous ends for the last few minutes.
 

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