Colour advice please

[rachel1234]

I have a client that's had a friend highlight her hair and it is now too ashy for her, khaki in places, the highlights are placed well, just completely wrong colour. She prefers a golden blonde like in attachment but is a base of a 10 now and very ashy. Would like some advice on what some more experienced colourist would do to get her to Paris's colour. I work with wella's full range if that helps.

 

[HairbyCass]

It depends on what level of ash she is. Ash tones on the same level as warm tones are actually darker.

So if she is a ten ash, and wants to be a 10 gold you will need to do a light colour bath to remove the old toner. I would mix powder lightener and water and apply to shampood hair at the basin for a minute or two to remove the cool tones. Watch that it doesn't break through the natural hair base as well.

Then I would go back over with a level 10 gold semi, process visually, but leave it for as long as you can, as it will be good for condition and shine.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific with what to apply, I work with goldwell, so I hope this gives you some direction,

 

[rachel1234]

Thank you, what ratio would you mix the powder to water? I've only ever done bleach baths with peroxide and shampoo in the mixture also.
I'm a little worried about the tone fading as she has slightly porous hair as it is anyway, will a semi be enough?

 

[NiCshairstudio]

Always the with a Demi when you can as nothing holds on blonde but they hold better and as they help keep the condition last longer

I'd do the same powder water and shampoo will only need a few mins so keep watching. And then apply a gold Demi xx

 

[rachel1234]

Thank you guys, not had much exposure to colour corrections since leaving college, so I like to make sure I'm going about them the right way when I do get one booked in

 

[HairbyCass]

2:1 water to powder lightener.

This will be enough to just budge the tone a bit. You're not lifting, so you don't need to mix with peroxide as that will be to strong.

 

[rachel1234]

Would you still apply this like a tint to mid lengths & ends first and is the mixture thick enough to apply at the chair or is it a basin job haha?

 

[NiCshairstudio]

Basin job on washed and wet hair x

 

[rachel1234]

Lovely, thank you! Just one more question... What is the science behind a developer-less bleach bath? Does it just work on the pigment in/on the cuticle or does it penetrate into the cortex at all?
I always thought it was the peroxide that lifted the cuticle to allow colour/bleach molecules into the cortex?
May sound strange but I like to be able to visualise the chemical process & know what it's doing to the hair shaft

 

[akallday8888]

This is what I would do.
First I would make sure to tell your client that you will be applying a lightener (sounds less scary than bleach) to hair that has already been prelightened so it may cause it to be dryer and she should use a good conditioner (great time to sell her product or deep conditioning treatment). Most likely she will still agree to the service.

Have her sign a release form.

I personally would use the lowest volume activator in the salon with lightener to do the bleach cleanse. Wet hair do not shampoo it. and carefully apply to her pre-existing highlights. then watch for it to turn a pale color.

If you have time you could also use the lowest activator w/lightener and refoil her hair. I would check the first foil and wash it out almost immediately as im sure the ash will lift out very quickly.

I would tone her with a equal parts 9/03 and 9/83. While toning her I would tell her how to prolonge the life of her blonde by using cooler water yada yada yada. She will love you for keeping her filled in for the whole process and now you have a new client!

good luck id love to hear how it turns out!

 

[kimi1101]

This is what I would do.
First I would make sure to tell your client that you will be applying a lightener (sounds less scary than bleach) to hair that has already been prelightened so it may cause it to be dryer and she should use a good conditioner (great time to sell her product or deep conditioning treatment). Most likely she will still agree to the service.

Have her sign a release form.

I personally would use the lowest volume activator in the salon with lightener to do the bleach cleanse. Wet hair do not shampoo it. and carefully apply to her pre-existing highlights. then watch for it to turn a pale color.

If you have time you could also use the lowest activator w/lightener and refoil her hair. I would check the first foil and wash it out almost immediately as im sure the ash will lift out very quickly.

I would tone her with a equal parts 9/03 and 9/83. While toning her I would tell her how to prolonge the life of her blonde by using cooler water yada yada yada. She will love you for keeping her filled in for the whole process and now you have a new client!

good luck id love to hear how it turns out!

That is the loooooongest way for a shortcut. Ever.

Bleach and water, to a pouring consistency. This will remove tone only, so will help to budge your ash tone. Remove when you are happy visually with the result then tone. Off the top of my head I can't think what there is in colour touch but maybe like a 9/73, again developed visually.

 

[kimi1101]

Lovely, thank you! Just one more question... What is the science behind a developer-less bleach bath? Does it just work on the pigment in/on the cuticle or does it penetrate into the cortex at all?
I always thought it was the peroxide that lifted the cuticle to allow colour/bleach molecules into the cortex?
May sound strange but I like to be able to visualise the chemical process & know what it's doing to the hair shaft

Without developer it just removes tone (unless you left it on hair for ages then you would see a small element of lift)

With developer it's to remove depth and tone but as you said, she's happy with it all apart from the tone.

Go get her!!

 

[NiCshairstudio]

This is what I would do.
First I would make sure to tell your client that you will be applying a lightener (sounds less scary than bleach) to hair that has already been prelightened so it may cause it to be dryer and she should use a good conditioner (great time to sell her product or deep conditioning treatment). Most likely she will still agree to the service.

Have her sign a release form.

I personally would use the lowest volume activator in the salon with lightener to do the bleach cleanse. Wet hair do not shampoo it. and carefully apply to her pre-existing highlights. then watch for it to turn a pale color.

If you have time you could also use the lowest activator w/lightener and refoil her hair. I would check the first foil and wash it out almost immediately as im sure the ash will lift out very quickly.

I would tone her with a equal parts 9/03 and 9/83. While toning her I would tell her how to prolonge the life of her blonde by using cooler water yada yada yada. She will love you for keeping her filled in for the whole process and now you have a new client!

good luck id love to hear how it turns out!

She really doesn't need to go through the foiling it all out or using bleach with developer at all, she only needs to remove the tone, not lift, so water only instead of developer is the best advise I would say.

Apply to shampooed hair because shampoo opens the cutical to allow the bath to its job this is also why shampoo is used in baths to allow the bleach inside the hair shaft.

Recoiling or using developers are just adding unnecessary stress and processing to the hair and will dry it out. A developer free bath for a few minutes with a depositing colour to tone is the easiest, least complicated and best method and won't do anything to the hair her lady will love her for achieving the goal without complicating things and charging for things she didn't need to do and her hair stays in the same condition if not better from the Demi.

Do retail your prods though explain about how toners always fade and the best way to keep a colour is with the condition of your hair and the best way to look after that is pro prods, and why. Xx

 

[Jinnyjinbob]

Hydrogen Peroxide causes the chemical process when mixed with bleach. Its called oxidation. The higher the % peroxide, the more oxygen in it. However lightener will still oxidise when mixed with water as h2o also contains oxygen. Just in a much milder way than with peroxide. So it's not strong enough to lift, just remove tone. X

 

[rachel1234]

Thank you all for your help, her hair came out much like the picture, looks lovely, but as we were toning her hair, she saw a picture of a darker blonde in a magazine and has now decided she wants to go darker, typical client but hey ho, keeps me on my toes I guess