Colour advice please

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Caitlinnxx

Colour technician
Joined
Feb 13, 2018
Messages
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Location
UK
I’ve got a new client, had a consultation with her. At the moment she’s got about 5 inches natural level 6 root quite warm then level 5 old red semi perm on the mid lengths and ends, it’s faded to a warm brown but you can still see the red tone. She’s eventually wanting a white balayage (shock!)

I’ve done a strand test it lifted to a warm 7/8 so I explained it’s going to be a very gradual process. We have done 1 session so she’s currently around an 8.23 (L’Oréal) but I could tell she was dissatisfied with how light it was and how there wasn’t much contrast and texture towards the root.

Any recommendations on how to get more contrast in the new few sessions first pic is what the aim is eventually, 2nd is the result of 1 session
 

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A semi shouldn't last very long so it’s either a direct dye on bleached hair that’s stained it or she’s used a demi or permanent colour.

To get a fake white colour, you have to lift to a 10 then tone and it sounds like you’re going to struggle to do this on the coloured parts of the hair if your first attempt has only lifted to a warm 7/8.

The fact that she was dissatisfied leads me to suspect her expectations are unrealistic and she will blame you rather than her own hair when she doesn’t get the look she’s after. If you keep applying bleach to the same sections, it’s likely to cause a fair bit of damage and lead to very dry hair so I’d be inclined to focus on reducing her expectations to something achievable at the next appointment.

Maybe use a high vol bleach mix on a sample of her cut hair and show her the results of what happens when the hair is over-processed and turns to chewing gum. Point out that no amount of products can fix it when that happens and you care about ensuring her hair stays healthy.
 
A semi shouldn't last very long so it’s either a direct dye on bleached hair that’s stained it or she’s used a demi or permanent colour.

To get a fake white colour, you have to lift to a 10 then tone and it sounds like you’re going to struggle to do this on the coloured parts of the hair if your first attempt has only lifted to a warm 7/8.

The fact that she was dissatisfied leads me to suspect her expectations are unrealistic and she will blame you rather than her own hair when she doesn’t get the look she’s after. If you keep applying bleach to the same sections, it’s likely to cause a fair bit of damage and lead to very dry hair so I’d be inclined to focus on reducing her expectations to something achievable at the next appointment.

Maybe use a high vol bleach mix on a sample of her cut hair and show her the results of what happens when the hair is over-processed and turns to chewing gum. Point out that no amount of products can fix it when that happens and you care about ensuring her hair stays healthy.
If she expected to be lighter even after the strand test she was definitely unrealistic.
If you can't achieve what she wants in a short space of time, why don't you suggest that you deepen the root are with a semi/demi maybe a 5/0 or 5/01 so that it's a full shade darker and cooler, which will definitely give you more contrast to the colour on the ends, especially if the ends a slightly warmer.
 
If she expected to be lighter even after the strand test she was definitely unrealistic.
If you can't achieve what she wants in a short space of time, why don't you suggest that you deepen the root are with a semi/demi maybe a 5/0 or 5/01 so that it's a full shade darker and cooler, which will definitely give you more contrast to the colour on the ends, especially if the ends a slightly warmer.

Thankyou that sounds like a good plan - I’ll suggest it to her next time!☺️
 

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