Colour advice

[Alan Andersen]

Hello all,
Looking for some advice on colour formula for this client. Base / root normally done with Matrix socolor 7n and 7ma mixed 50/50 with 20 vol and air touch highlights done every 3rd or 4th visit. Looking to get base a bit lighter as its getting more grey, especially in the front. I'd say base is around a 5 but must be 50% white in the front, lessening as you move down the head. Hoping to get it to around a 7 or better still 8, but with cool tone as the client doesn't like warmth. I'm not tied to to any product line and regulary use Wella. Pic attached to show roots.
Many thanks.

 

[ronray]

I'd highlight and lowlight it instead. A base 8 will make her roots look dark. And it'll be very difficult to keep that cool.

 

[Alan Andersen]

Thanks Ron. I had previously did her roots with Illumina 6/16 & 7/81 & 7 equal parts and the colour was ok. I was unable to do her hair for a while and the salon she went to didn't use Wella so used Matrix. I was thinking of the same formula, but swapping out the 6/16 for 8/69. I do periodically lowlight if it's getting too blonde, but the client prefers a balayage look, hence why I don't do high and lows every time

 

[ronray]

Thanks Ron. I had previously did her roots with Illumina 6/16 & 7/81 & 7 equal parts and the colour was ok. I was unable to do her hair for a while and the salon she went to didn't use Wella so used Matrix. I was thinking of the same formula, but swapping out the 6/16 for 8/69. I do periodically lowlight if it's getting too blonde, but the client prefers a balayage look, hence why I don't do high and lows every time

8/69 will only counteract yellow tones. Lifting from her base 5 you will expose red and copper tones. 8/1 might be a better choice. Or add 8/1 to your suggested formula

 

[Alan Andersen]

8/69 will only counteract yellow tones. Lifting from her base 5 you will expose red and copper tones. 8/1 might be a better choice. Or add 8/1 to your suggested formula

I was thinking the blue in the 7/81 would help counteract the orange. Is the 1 tone green?

 

[ronray]

It would as it is, but then because your diluting it by adding an 8 The dye load becomes weaker/less.
And don't forget natural underlying pigment is much stronger and more stubborn than pigment from a tube.

 

[Alan Andersen]

It would as it is, but then because your diluting it by adding an 8 The dye load becomes weaker/less.
And don't forget natural underlying pigment is much stronger and more stubborn than pigment from a tube.

Ok, so do you think I should leave the natural shade out and just mix 7/81 and 8/1? I was using a bit of natural shade due to the high white percentage in the front?

 

[ronray]

Ok, so do you think I should leave the natural shade out and just mix 7/81 and 8/1? I was using a bit of natural shade due to the high white percentage in the front?
[/QUOTE
re formulate for the whiter areas. White hair needs to be coloured differently to a level 5 hair that is being lifted to an 8

 

[Alan Andersen]

Cool, makes sense. Thank you, you're da man on Wella

 

[ronray]

Cool, makes sense. Thank you, you're da man on Wella

Thanks

 

[Alan Andersen]

Sorry, another question. Is there any benefit to using KP or Illumina for this?

 

[ronray]

Sorry, another question. Is there any benefit to using KP or Illumina for this?

I would say koleston is definitely more solid. Gives a more pigmented coverage. Illumina is softer, and more blended.

 

[ronray]

I would say koleston is definitely more solid. Gives a more pigmented coverage. Illumina is softer, and more blended.

But illumina has a violet undertone. Whereas koleston has a brunette undertone.