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Colour change advice

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MJHosie

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hi all, i have a colour change query. i have a new client whose photo is below. she said she wants hair stripped and then to go Golden Brown. Her hair has been box dyed in the past and also bleached in past. The hair looks around a base 5 at present and Golden Brown options come in around base 6. I have sought advices from my HNC colleagues and i'm stuck on option.
I could go ahead and strip the hair and then use a 6v with an 6 base to bring to colour. I would need to be aware of the Red Orange undertone at Base 6. This would need Blue Green tone to neutralise. So i would need a tube of something to cover the Blue Green at Base 6. I may need to prepare a cocktail in case i cant get a blue green i same range.

Or Instead of Stripping I could Bleach the hair with 20 vol and just lift as much as I needed. The undertones and colour would be as above.

Alternatively I could use no bleach or stripper as base is very close i have found the following online with tones and mixing details. Client seems happy with this. I could just apply to existing hair with a 20 vol and mix as detailed. Is this option viable?

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ronray

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hi all, i have a colour change query. i have a new client whose photo is below. she said she wants hair stripped and then to go Golden Brown. Her hair has been box dyed in the past and also bleached in past. The hair looks around a base 5 at present and Golden Brown options come in around base 6. I have sought advices from my HNC colleagues and i'm stuck on option.
I could go ahead and strip the hair and then use a 6v with an 6 base to bring to colour. I would need to be aware of the Red Orange undertone at Base 6. This would need Blue Green tone to neutralise. So i would need a tube of something to cover the Blue Green at Base 6. I may need to prepare a cocktail in case i cant get a blue green i same range.

Or Instead of Stripping I could Bleach the hair with 20 vol and just lift as much as I needed. The undertones and colour would be as above.

Alternatively I could use no bleach or stripper as base is very close i have found the following online with tones and mixing details. Client seems happy with this. I could just apply to existing hair with a 20 vol and mix as detailed. Is this option viable?

View attachment 211173

View attachment 211174
Tint doesn't lift tint. So applying more colour on hair that's already dark, will result in a flatter dark colour, because the colour will just start to build up on the hair. A colour remover is probably the sensible option. It's more controlled and doesn't cause damage.
The difficulty is, whichever method you use to remove the colour, you want really know how it will turn out - meaning that it's difficult to formulate a final colour before you've lifted the hair. Colour correction is such an unpredictable process and can reveal all kinds of problems.
 

liana kay

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I second dont apply dark tint on those ends ! Thing with colourstripping it can be patchy and absorb colour when you tint over the top . I would double check that what this client want
calls golden brown is what you or the chart would call golden brown .
I wouldnt overpromise and do this in several appointments , you could take it lighter gradually by matching up the base 1/2 shade lighter each time and doing roots only , and applying a 10 tint with 3% on ends , may or may not do anything (1/2 shade lift at most) but helps to make the hair look less dense without being a drastic change that then has to be covered up by yet more dark tint
 

Haircutz

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Clients who use box dyes tend to re-apply the product over the entire length when they touch up their roots so the hair is likely to have a build up of colour. I’d probably do some strand tests first to see what you’re dealing with. if the client has only used a demi box colour, then a bleach bath might be enough to lift the colour sufficiently to use a 6 on it after or you might need to use a colour reducer to remove saturated colour build up.
 

vividamnesia

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It is so difficult to see her hair in the pic..... best to know how long ago & how many times box dye was applied & in what level.....same with her bleach applications past details to better assess the situation & choose the most proper process & formula. I would do a test strand or 2 first to know if there is residual color in the hair still or has it been long enough ago that the color has completely faded out leaving only the exposed raw warm pigment.

If there is old color in the hair you must remove it first or else it will just stay the darker level without removal. If the 2nd option is available of just the exposed pigment showing & the old color molecules are long gone....then a lv.6.30 or 6.31(6 Gold+Natural) or (6 Gold+Blue & or Green Ash) N/.0 series colors have a balanced R+Y+B make up & provide the weakest ash for a slightly Orange-gold outcome which is standard for a lv.6. .....A/.1 colors have B or B+Y=G base for a more cooler based lv.6.

I love using intensifiers! You can add about a 1" line of a pure gold intensifier to boost the Y pigment per 30mls/1foz of hair color in to your formula no need to adjust developer to match for a good punch of Gold in your formula! I use Dikson: Full color drops in a lot of my golden brown formulas & the other shades of pigment drops for base balancing pre target color application! It is a concentrated pigment drop specifically for use with oxidative or direct dye colors.
1601859637288.pngAnother little trick is to when your target color is finally applied & processing.....whip in 5 foils in 1/4":1/2" space between 1/4" weave per foil @ 2 foils/ starting just behind the hairline, top most layer along parting to crown both sides of parting......& 1 foil around the crown flowing down the back of the hair with a 20vol bleach for finer hair or 30vol bleach for average to coarser hair types. Remove the foils 10mins b4 30min process is complete, wipe off bleach & smush bleached hair in to the processing color fo the last 10min of processing. This results in a few slightly lighter golden strands looking more like natural golden based haircolors that have been sun kissed which will add a little more excitement to your 1 level lighter color change! It is surprising how just a few soft mini lights can add to the result!
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