Colour correction - toning root bleach

[cejboyce]

So a regular client came in wanting a change from her usual. Normally she gets a root bleach (blondor & 20vol with olaplex treatment) and I tone with instamatic muted mauve. Usually we leave this on as she used to quite like the slight purple tint, which would then fade to platinum. However she said she wants to change things up as she’s not fond of instamatic anymore.

We’re going to root bleach as usual, but she wants a slightly more natural look, showing me a picture of a root smudge, roughly a level 8/9 into a level 9/10. Any advice on toning would be great. Would using 9/38 on the roots blending into a 10/38 work? Her roots tend to go white yellow when we bleach, so it needs to cover that enough. Also developer- would pastel be best to use, or stick with the normal 20vol?

Below are some photos of what she’d roughly like the outcome to be. Thanks in advance!!

 

[ronray]

Pastel, as 20vol will give you hot roots over bleached hair.
You'll need to go down to an 8 at least. A level 9 in to a 10 will almost look like the roots haven't lifted enough.
8/71 would be my go to for this. And then blend it in to 10/38 maybe a few grams of 10/16 or 10/96 if you want that crisp white blonde.
The other options for me would be 8/1 + 8/97.
If I was to do this and aiming for the photo, I'd mix 7/1 with 8/96 but I know some clients are afraid of going that dark. But you have to remember that it is already going over a lighter base, and it will fade.

 

[cejboyce]

Thanks for the detailed reply! And koleston perfect would be fine to use? I’ve been told conflicting things about using it for this?

 

[ronray]

Thanks for the detailed reply! And koleston perfect would be fine to use? I’ve been told conflicting things about using it for this?

It's fine to use with pastel as a toner. Colour touch is my go to for toners, because there's no lifting action - so it does what it's designed to do ( deposit colour)

 

[cejboyce]

It's fine to use with pastel as a toner. Colour touch is my go to for toners, because there's no lifting action - so it does what it's designed to do ( deposit colour)

I spoke to her again this morning, as she was wanting to still do a root bleach first. I suggested that it’s probably best to skip the bleach and go straight in with the level 7 or 8 (her natural colour is roughly a level 6/7). For context she has about 1 or 2 inches of regrowth currently. Because this is new to her she’s understandably a bit concerned about entirely ditching the bleach. Am I correct in saying skip the bleach? Or would it be best to bleach first then add the brown/blonde smudging to make sure it blends seemlessly?

 

[ronray]

I spoke to her again this morning, as she was wanting to still do a root bleach first. I suggested that it’s probably best to skip the bleach and go straight in with the level 7 or 8 (her natural colour is roughly a level 6/7). For context she has about 1 or 2 inches of regrowth currently. Because this is new to her she’s understandably a bit concerned about entirely ditching the bleach. Am I correct in saying skip the bleach? Or would it be best to bleach first then add the brown/blonde smudging to make sure it blends seemlessly?

If she wants a root smudge of a 7 and she's naturally a 6 you will need to lighten first and then re colour. So unfortunately your client is right.
Because it will be so difficult to try and create a blend from her natural root on to the lighter hair with 1 shade lighter than her natural.

Bleach and tone 100%