Covering 100% grey - Wella

[NickyMcK]

Hi all

Just needed a bit of advice about coloring 100% grey.

My (new) client has very blonde hair (probably the same depth as a hi-light tint). Am I correct in thinking anything over a base 9 will not cover 100% grey?

I was thinking of using a /00 in Wella KP with 20 vol as I only want to deposit the colour and I also will probably pre-soften first as its very resistant.

She also want a few scatter foils to break up the block colour and I was thinking 12/17 as it comes out lovely.

I'm just a tad nervous as this client has just come over from Toni and Guy to me (freelance and solo!) and want to make sure I get it right!

Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated Hair Geeks!

x

 

[ColourGirly]

When you say same depth as a highlift tint I suppose you mean a base 10?

12/17 wouldn't cover the grey in foils and it's not suitable to cut through old colour.

Are you looking for a gold/ ash etc?

I'm unsure on the pre soften side of things, the peroxide we use is acidic so closes cuticle hence defeats the purpose. Just as a side thought - shouldn't tints be good enough to cover without this extra step? Surely it's more time consuming?

 

[NickyMcK]

Hi, thanks for replying.

Yes a base 10. Client has 1/2 regrowth of 100% grey with highlights currently (golden blonde) and she is looking for me to up keep this and wants to avoid ash! Pre-softning is time consuming but I have 2 clients I do this for currently as they have very resistant hair and client advises me she was 'baked' in the salon so it would take. I always leave on for the full development time (40 min)

I was thinking of the 12/17 hilights just weaved on the top of the head (not to cover grey but break up blonde). She has her roots done every 3 weeks then hilights every 12 wks so there would be colour to colour if that makes sense?

I'm just a bit flumaxed as the 100% grey coverage has thrown me a bit....strength of peroxide etc...

 

[ColourGirly]

Has she actually got a harsh line of coverage?

I would either do 2/3 99/0 mixed with 1/3 of a 10 line. Or if she doesn't mine a softer coverage used a 10.

She may only look lighter as the salon may have used a 9 and it hasn't covered very well, I assume by being 'baked' she was left under heat? So I'd guess they were trying to achieve a good coverage.

You need to used 6% either way.

In the scatter foils, I'd use bleach with a pastel developer. 12/17 would do much as it's a level 10 anyway.

I made the transiston from wella to goldwell for this reason, pre softening and no coverage and over developing is time consuming - not had one single issue - I just put a tint on a get the coverage.

 

[NickyMcK]

Thanks - great advice and will do that - Yes harsh growth line and baked...the luxury of a climazone. Yes I am thinking of changing from Wella...not as great as other brands I here!

Thanks again x

 

[ColourGirly]

I highly recommend goldwell, it's my 4th brand I've used I don't think I'd change again.

If you fancy taking a chance then 40ml 6% 25ml 9NN 15ml 10BG or 10P is cooler but not too ash and some bleached foils....... Lush!

 

[stewie16]

Wella is really good as long you know how to use it and right measurements. Some colour manufacturers can look very artificial and found wella to be very natural looking

 

[mariaIC]

Wella is fab if used correctly. I would use killed ton perfect 99/0 and make sure it is covered well and leave for the full time. As for coverage the client needs to decide if she wants 100% coverage or lightness because 10 isn't to cover white hair it will blend it. Blondor and pastel developer will be fine with the highlights. Good luck 😊

 

[mariaIC]

Kolleston perfect lol

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

The good thing about blondor and pastel is it's been known to give white hair a slight golden tone that mimics a yellow undercoat a little x also you can tone your highlights with a golden level 9/10 and because the prelightener increases the porosity it will be more likely to take x you could also try foiling with 10/0 and a couple of inches of 10/38 and tinting in between with 99/0 x

 

[soozgribb]

99/0 is probably your best bet for the regrowth. However you cant mix it with anything else but mixtones. You could h/l after though with blondor and pastel for some subltle h/l's.

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[NickyMcK]

Thanks everyone for your replies. Really appreciate it. So I called Wella just as a back up (they are really helpful) and I was given advice to use a 9/0 for the roots...and guess what..it didn't cover the grey very well! (I am a stickler for timings and measurements too so I know I did everything in my power!)

Luckily a lovely client and as it was my first time I explained, and I'm going to go for the recommended 99/0 (I know, I should have listened first time!) Then tackle the highlights on her third colour service.

Thanks again - I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[stewie16]

Thanks everyone for your replies. Really appreciate it. So I called Wella just as a back up (they are really helpful) and I was given advice to use a 9/0 for the roots...and guess what..it didn't cover the grey very well! (I am a stickler for timings and measurements too so I know I did everything in my power!)

Luckily a lovely client and as it was my first time I explained, and I'm going to go for the recommended 99/0 (I know, I should have listened first time!) Then tackle the highlights on her third colour service.

Thanks again - I'll let you know how it goes!

I would have used 99/0 and a lil bit of mix tone and left it for 45-50mins and it would have covered I've used it on very stubborn 100% grey and it's covered can't get over that Wella said use 9/0?!

 

[dolly dimple]

To be fair everyone's hair is different I did a lady today 9.0 with grey covered lovely and some blondor and fine hilights. Hair was fine though , just goes to show what works on one person might not on another x


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[NickyMcK]

I agree Stewie16, I was surprised at the advice but the reasoning was it would give a more sheer result. I can't knock the Wella helpline though 9 out of 10 times they are always spot on and very helpful!

 

[Nook]

Wella is really good as long you know how to use it and right measurements. Some colour manufacturers can look very artificial and found wella to be very natural looking

I’m really interested by this thread and would like your advice because i have used the new version 9/0 + 9/03 twice this week on salt and pepper hair with very disappointing results - namely that it came out a dull brown and not the blond i expected. Furthermore i was doing my mother’s hair the second time (thank god) and the blondor bleach just looked super white rather than the yellow i expected. Have you had this experience and do you habe any advice? I’m thinking maybe i over processed it (left it an hour) but this is the first time i’ve ever experienced this. Thanks

I was using it in high/low lights both times.

I agree Stewie16, I was surprised at the advice but the reasoning was it would give a more sheer result. I can't knock the Wella helpline though 9 out of 10 times they are always spot on and very helpful!

I have been using equal parts 8/0 + 9/03 (And sometimes 9/0 and 8/03) on greying hair with great results - it’s multitonal and ends up looking like highlights. I usually do the roots and then if the ends have gone too gold i might draw the colour through freehand in stripes to break it up.

 

[Noodle]

I’m really interested by this thread and would like your advice because i have used the new version 9/0 + 9/03 twice this week on salt and pepper hair with very disappointing results - namely that it came out a dull brown and not the blond i expected. Furthermore i was doing my mother’s hair the second time (thank god) and the blondor bleach just looked super white rather than the yellow i expected. Have you had this experience and do you habe any advice? I’m thinking maybe i over processed it (left it an hour) but this is the first time i’ve ever experienced this. Thanks ❤

I was using it in high/low lights both times.


I have been using equal parts 8/0 + 9/03 (And sometimes 9/0 and 8/03) on greying hair with great results - it’s multitonal and ends up looking like highlights. I usually do the roots and then if the ends have gone too gold i might draw the colour through freehand in stripes to break it up.

Welcome to Salon Geek.

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