Does my hair need protein or moisture?

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philipxxx

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I have recently been gone from black level 2 to now a level 10 blonde I know extreme but i think most of you will agree us hairdressers get bored with our hair often but I did it really slowly to try and maintain the condition of the hair but I am now unfortunately having breakage I am unsure wether it needs protein or moisture because when my hair is wet it seems to break easily with very little tension like it needs moisture but it also feels really soft when wet I wouldn't say gummy just really soft like I needs protein but don't want to use it if it's going to make it break more what's the best products to use on my hair
 
When are ya'll geting olaplex
 
Moisture.

Protein can cause further damage and some people can be protein sensitive and you wouldnt know until you use protein.

Protein can cause pure breakage
 
I have been tought to advise Keratine and proteine after a (intense) bleaching treatment.
This product I recommended has been an award winning product for 11 years.
I think they must have done something right....
 
Thank you for all your replies I did a keratin treatment today followed by a intense moisture treatment both under heat for 20 mins it seems to be better iv started to rap my hair with a silk scarf when it's wet and let it air dry so I don't need to use a heat on it so hopefully I will be better soon , I really want to try olaplex I wish I would be available in the UK it's so annoying not being able to get it
 
Me too! Ive seen so many good things about Olaplex! I love it!
When Guy Tang uses it wow!

Cant u order it online? From the states?
 
I have been tought to advise Keratine and proteine after a (intense) bleaching treatment.
This product I recommended has been an award winning product for 11 years.
I think they must have done something right....

I never said at any point it wasnt a good product...

People can end up with even bigger problems than they started with after using protein. So i just wouldn't risk it.

I'm not saying protein is never good, sometimes protein works brilliantly! Sometimes it cause damage. Its a volatile product i find.

I wouldn't do anything anyone told me until I've researched it myself.
 
I never said at any point it wasnt a good product...

People can end up with even bigger problems than they started with after using protein. So i just wouldn't risk it.

I'm not saying protein is never good, sometimes protein works brilliantly! Sometimes it cause damage. Its a volatile product i find.

I wouldn't do anything anyone told me until I've researched it myself.

I agree a lot of people go straight in with protein when it's not needed , I was just confused with my own hair like it was really soft when wet like it needed to be strengthened but if I tried to stretch it would just snap which is a sign of lack of moisture
 
Hair is weakest and most compromised when it's wet. Never do a strand test right out of the shower or even after combing. Do a few different strand tests: When it's 90-95% dry after washing and then when it's totally dry. If it snaps right away, more moisture.

I agree with Cams protein can actually cause more damage. Especially if you do not need it. In the past 5-6 years so many products now contain protein. Products such as shampoos, conditioners, detanglers...the list goes on. Most clients are using protein on a near daily basis and don't even know it. If it says "anti breakage" or "strengthening" it's a protein. I'm extremely passionate about the abuse of proteins because I've seen it numerous times and the breakage it causes. And then you have products such as coconut oil that mimic a protein. Coconut oil is not a direct protein, but it mimics a protein. Not everyone needs a protein simply because their hair is dry. So while coconut oil may be great for some, it can cause breakage for others who are protein sensitive.

I've had clients with lightened hair over do the protein and it's resulted in breakage. Is a protein mask fine a few times a year? Yes. Does it need to be on a weekly or even a monthly basis? No. And not all proteins are the same. Some demi's contain protein. So let's say a client is doing a protein mask a few times a month, but not properly moisturizing, when you take the demi from the roots and then lightly through the ends, you are compromising the hair. And you can't blame a client for abusing protein because not all masks clearly state they are a protein.

If the strand test breaks when it's dry or nearly dry: moisture. I've recently been helping a client get over protein overload and it's amazing watching the hair strand tests. Just six weeks ago it broke so fast. But she's laying off the heat, stretching out her shampoos, and doing moisture without protein and now the hair is returning to normal. I'm also researching detanglers without alcohol for her and a blow drying serum also. I have so much more to say on this topic, but I'm tired. xx
 
Hair is weakest and most compromised when it's wet. Never do a strand test right out of the shower or even after combing. Do a few different strand tests: When it's 90-95% dry after washing and then when it's totally dry. If it snaps right away, more moisture.

I agree with Cams protein can actually cause more damage. Especially if you do not need it. In the past 5-6 years so many products now contain protein. Products such as shampoos, conditioners, detanglers...the list goes on. Most clients are using protein on a near daily basis and don't even know it. If it says "anti breakage" or "strengthening" it's a protein. I'm extremely passionate about the abuse of proteins because I've seen it numerous times and the breakage it causes. And then you have products such as coconut oil that mimic a protein. Coconut oil is not a direct protein, but it mimics a protein. Not everyone needs a protein simply because their hair is dry. So while coconut oil may be great for some, it can cause breakage for others who are protein sensitive.

I've had clients with lightened hair overdue the protein and it's resulted in breakage. Is a protein mask fine a few times a year? Yes. Does it need to be on a weekly or even a monthly basis? No. And not all proteins are the same. Some demi's contain protein. So let's say a client is doing a protein mask a few times a month, but not properly moisturizing, when you take the demi from the roots and then lightly through the ends, you are compromising the hair. And you can't blame a client for abusing protein because not all masks clearly state they are a protein.

If the strand test breaks when it's dry or nearly dry: moisture. I've recently been helping a client get over protein overload and it's amazing watching the hair strand tests. Just six weeks ago it broke so fast. But she's laying off the heat, stretching out her shampoos, and doing moisture without protein and now the hair is returning to normal. I'm also researching detanglers without alcohol for her and a blow drying serum also. I have so much more to say on this topic, but I'm tired. xx

Thank you for this reply , very informative, I can't believe how may products have protein in like I used to love redken all soft until the changed it and put keratin in it
 
Excellent post satchel.

As a previous poster mentioned, there are some amazing products out there to help treat damaged hair but it's essential that the stylist can accurately diagnose whether the hair needs additional moisture or protein or both in the short term.

Unfortunately, clients self diagnose based on the advertising blurb on the shampoo bottle (anti snap/damaged hair) and go ahead adding protein with each application of shampoo, conditioner, heat protector etc. The protein overload leads to more breakage but then trying to persuade clients that the products they're using at home has contributed to the problem, is a really tough one.
 
I really struggle with this balance!
I have a client at the moment who was over proteined, I turned her on to Moroccan Oil hydration range, and MO light. He hair literally improved by the week. Last time I coloured her hair a couple of months ago it was silky and shiny. But then she came in yesterday with really snapping hair, says she hasn't changed her routine in any way but it just suddenly got dry and started breaking. She wondered if it is because she is doing up a house at the moment and constantly exposed to dust from sanders and stuff. A mate of hers has had success with Well a liquid hair so she tried it and says it made things worse.
I don't know what to advise her from here! Her ends feel dry and she has a lot of snapping. I think it's moisture she needs but she is already using MO which is what I would normally recommend in that situation.
Any wisdom I can use to help her improve things?
Thanks :)
 
It’s tough to say it like that because we all have different type of hairs and everything is dependent on the kind of hair as some people above suggested things, I completely agree with them as in some cases Protein might be a better thing, but in other’s it can just continue the damage, but if you go according to my suggestion then it’s definitely protein that you need to get back on track.
 
What products is she using at home? Shampoo, conditioner, styling products?

Snapping certainly sounds like protein overload. If it's dry it needs moisture but I can't see the dust causing the problems.
 
In terms of shampoo & conditioners, the term 'moisturizing' simply means something that will lubricate the surface of the cuticle, therefore controlling moisture loss and absorption of the hair shaft- not to 'injection moisture' as it suggests, otherwise we could just wet the hair! Protein molecules are large and unable to penetrate the hair, so manufacturers will use hydrolysis to break the protein into smaller molecules, which is considered a temporary solution.
 
In terms of shampoo & conditioners, the term 'moisturizing' simply means something that will lubricate the surface of the cuticle, therefore controlling moisture loss and absorption of the hair shaft- not to 'injection moisture' as it suggests, otherwise we could just wet the hair! Protein molecules are large and unable to penetrate the hair, so manufacturers will use hydrolysis to break the protein into smaller molecules, which is considered a temporary solution.

So what do we do then?:(:confused:
 
I've found clients who only wash hair once a week vs. those that wash several times a week, have different reactions to protein. I've found protein definitely grabs to hair that isn't shampooed and conditioned as often thus causing a more brittle effect.
 
Thanks for the replies :) She uses Moroccan Oil Hydrate range at home, followed by MO light. No styling products. She did say she has started to use the MO glimmer shine spray between washes to counteract the dryness but it seems to improve things short term, then dry out even more. It is definitely pretty dry at the moment which is why I am reluctant to recommend protein. Her hair has reacted badly to protein in the past. Any thoughts on best hydrating products? Thanks!
 

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