Hair is weakest and most compromised when it's wet. Never do a strand test right out of the shower or even after combing. Do a few different strand tests: When it's 90-95% dry after washing and then when it's totally dry. If it snaps right away, more moisture.
I agree with Cams protein can actually cause more damage. Especially if you do not need it. In the past 5-6 years so many products now contain protein. Products such as shampoos, conditioners, detanglers...the list goes on. Most clients are using protein on a near daily basis and don't even know it. If it says "anti breakage" or "strengthening" it's a protein. I'm extremely passionate about the abuse of proteins because I've seen it numerous times and the breakage it causes. And then you have products such as coconut oil that mimic a protein. Coconut oil is not a direct protein, but it mimics a protein. Not everyone needs a protein simply because their hair is dry. So while coconut oil may be great for some, it can cause breakage for others who are protein sensitive.
I've had clients with lightened hair overdue the protein and it's resulted in breakage. Is a protein mask fine a few times a year? Yes. Does it need to be on a weekly or even a monthly basis? No. And not all proteins are the same. Some demi's contain protein. So let's say a client is doing a protein mask a few times a month, but not properly moisturizing, when you take the demi from the roots and then lightly through the ends, you are compromising the hair. And you can't blame a client for abusing protein because not all masks clearly state they are a protein.
If the strand test breaks when it's dry or nearly dry: moisture. I've recently been helping a client get over protein overload and it's amazing watching the hair strand tests. Just six weeks ago it broke so fast. But she's laying off the heat, stretching out her shampoos, and doing moisture without protein and now the hair is returning to normal. I'm also researching detanglers without alcohol for her and a blow drying serum also. I have so much more to say on this topic, but I'm tired. xx