Fibreglass questions

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Deena

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I have just started a fibreglass course at college <VTCT>. I previously did an ezflow conversion, using a spray activator and the fox file <180 grit, I think?>. This course is using NSI products, with a brush on activator and the 'Shaping' file is one I can't identify <white on one side and a pinky/orange on the other>, which I 'Think' is a 330<?> according to the instructions in the kit box.

I am only just getting going with it, so I know I can't expect too much too soon, but I'm struggling with the consistency. I can't seem to build much of an apex with it and the brush on activator just seems to splodge it around, rendering the application a bit lumpy. I've tried using more/less, but I'm still not too happy with it.

It's early days, but can anyone give me a few pointers, please, with regard to the best grit files for fibreglass and the use of a brush on activator. Any help would be much appreciated. :)
 
I have just started a fibreglass course at college <VTCT>. I previously did an ezflow conversion, using a spray activator and the fox file <180 grit, I think?>. This course is using NSI products, with a brush on activator and the 'Shaping' file is one I can't identify <white on one side and a pinky/orange on the other>, which I 'Think' is a 330<?> according to the instructions in the kit box.

I am only just getting going with it, so I know I can't expect too much too soon, but I'm struggling with the consistency. I can't seem to build much of an apex with it and the brush on activator just seems to splodge it around, rendering the application a bit lumpy. I've tried using more/less, but I'm still not too happy with it.

It's early days, but can anyone give me a few pointers, please, with regard to the best grit files for fibreglass and the use of a brush on activator. Any help would be much appreciated. :)

Well I always have used soft grit files and buffers. 240 or more so the 330 sounds fine.

Brush on activator should barely touch the surface. Just flick the brush really quickly over the top of the surface. It doesn't take much for the polymerization to start and you don't use the brush like applying polish. Flick Flick and your done.

wraps do not normally have any apex (like when you use a paint-on gel). It is possible to build an apex with many layers but not practical unless you have a builder resin. Not many systems have it. If you are going to build apexes then go to L&P or gel.

A wrap is what it sounds like; a thin fabric wrap over a natural nail .. what you see is what you get generally.
 
Thanks geeg, I can see I've got to sort this out! The thing with the resin I'm using is it doesn't have a long nozzle <just comes straight <splat> out of the bottle, you can't drizzle it around the nail> and we've been told to just put a small bead in centre of the nail and work it outwards with the brush on activator. I shall have to learn to just skim the nail with the brush, as it's starting to set into troughs at the moment, whilst I'm still trying to get an even coverage. Still, early days! Thanks geeg. :):hug:
 
Thanks geeg, I can see I've got to sort this out! The thing with the resin I'm using is it doesn't have a long nozzle <just comes straight <splat> out of the bottle, you can't drizzle it around the nail> and we've been told to just put a small bead in centre of the nail and work it outwards with the brush on activator. I shall have to learn to just skim the nail with the brush, as it's starting to set into troughs at the moment, whilst I'm still trying to get an even coverage. Still, early days! Thanks geeg. :):hug:

It is easy to buy longer nozzles for your resin! Apply the resin to the whole of the fabric first with your nozzle (even the one you have now) and only then do you use your activator brush to do a your flicks over the top.

Do these college teachers actually know anything about the products they use? They don't even equip you with the right tools. It really is an absolute scandal.
 


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