Glowy roots on brown hair help!

[LilMissCreative]

Hey guys!

Just need a bit of input. I had a client come to me who is a full head dark brown (around a 5/0) her natural regrowth is around a shade 6 -7 but quite ashy & flat. She's complaining that whenever & wherever she has her hair coloured, she always ends up with 'glowy' roots which she hates. She says she's just been having a permanent 5/0 with 6% (Paul Mitchell colour < I haven't worked with PM colours) where she's been previously but she isn't happy with the lighter root area.
She doesn't want to drop to a 4/0 as this will be too dark & harsh when her natural colour starts coming thru. The ends of her hair is a lovely rich colour and she's happy with that, as I say, it's just the roots causing the problem.

Just wondered how anyone else would tackle this as it's not something I've come across very much. Other than adding blue to the brown to counteract the golden tones or possibly trying 6/0 with 3% on the roots, I'm a bit baffled. (Possibly having a blonde moment here I know. lol) I work with koleston/Clynol.

Any suggestions would be appreciated! X


...LilMissCreative...

 

[marie hilton]

3%? 6% will lift and she doesn't need the lift as she's darkening x

 

[LilMissCreative]

3%? 6% will lift and she doesn't need the lift as she's darkening x

Yes, this is exactly what I thought but I spoke to a hairdresser I know who's supposed to be a colour technician & she was like "but 3% isn't permanent & the colour would fade off easy..." I'm like what??? Lol. This is what's baffled me! I don't think I'd do 5/0 & 3% as I fear this would end up more like a 4/0 possibly? Maybe 6/0 with a tiny bit of 5/0 & 3%.

Thank you for your reply! X


...LilMissCreative...

 

[marie hilton]

Yea that sounds good, if in doubt of shades go in between! iv always been taught 3%is permanent? Anything less is quasi then semi? I would say it's glowing because it's being unnessisarily lifted. X

 

[LilMissCreative]

Yea that sounds good, if in doubt of shades go in between! iv always been taught 3%is permanent? Anything less is quasi then semi? I would say it's glowing because it's being unnessisarily lifted. X

Yes, me too! Thank you for confirming what I first thought, I feel better now. I shouldn't have doubted myself in the first place really, but it's good to get a second opinion!! &#128516; Thanks hun xxx


...LilMissCreative...

 

[marie hilton]

Yes, me too! Thank you for confirming what I first thought, I feel better now. I shouldn't have doubted myself in the first place really, but it's good to get a second opinion!! &#128516; Thanks hun xxx


...LilMissCreative...

No worries x

 

[LilMissCreative]

No worries x

Also, when using 3% am I right in thinking that putting her under heat isn't necessary as I'm not wanting to lift, just deposit colour?? Leave it on for 40mins without heat? X


...LilMissCreative...

 

[marie hilton]

Also, when using 3% am I right in thinking that putting her under heat isn't necessary as I'm not wanting to lift, just deposit colour?? Leave it on for 40mins without heat? X


...LilMissCreative...

I never use heat anyway. But if u did it would be more for lightening. So no jus leave it without heat x

 

[LilMissCreative]

I never use heat anyway. But if u did it would be more for lightening. So no jus leave it without heat x

You're a star. Thank you!! Xxx


...LilMissCreative...

 

[dolly dimple]

Have you considered a double base colour for more depth x and I would use 6% my opinionx


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[dolly dimple]

3% with semi colour x


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[ColourGirly]

I think PM basically say 3% is a Demi anything else is permanent .....I don't get that as you can't remove ammonia from a colour any change the way it works!

My question is what happens to her ends after her roots?

If she's been have a tint refresh then this may have cause colour build up the ends may look like a 4 make the roots look 'glowy'

 

[magentahair]

I think PM basically say 3% is a Demi anything else is permanent .....I don't get that as you can't remove ammonia from a colour any change the way it works!

My question is what happens to her ends after her roots?

If she's been have a tint refresh then this may have cause colour build up the ends may look like a 4 make the roots look 'glowy'

Does she have any grey? If not then yes use a semi, taken through every third time.

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[LilMissCreative]

Hi guys!

No she doesn't have any grey hair but her natural hair colour is very ashy.

I don't think the problem is colour build up on this occasion as she said she's recently had her colour cleansed (from colour build up about a level 4) she had it lifted to a 6/0 (mid lengths/ends went around a 5/0 so roots were very light as you can imagine) So she ended up going 5/0 hoping this would sort her roots out but it hasn't.

I suggested using a semi on her to give a more even/natural colour. However, she's adamant that she doesn't want a semi for it to "wash out all over her towels & bedding" FFS.

I thought about using a double base, but I've only ever used double bases on grey/white stubborn hair, so I'm not confident about using them on non grey hair! Can you even use them on non grey hair??

Thanks for the replies guys! X


...LilMissCreative...

 

[ColourGirly]

Semi perm won't do it

Personally id just match up what she has and use 3%, make sure you only use a 6 on the ends to avoid build up.


It's down to you to educate her

Semi- 4-6 washes
Demi - soft regrowth/less pigment
Permanent - more pigment/solid colour

If she's has a permanent previously using a Demi would look softer and lighter and glowy- I don't think this would help.

 

[magentahair]

Semi perm won't do it

Personally id just match up what she has and use 3%, make sure you only use a 6 on the ends to avoid build up.


It's down to you to educate her

Semi- 4-6 washes
Demi - soft regrowth/less pigment
Permanent - more pigment/solid colour

If she's has a permanent previously using a Demi would look softer and lighter and glowy- I don't think this would help.

Why not?

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[ColourGirly]

A semi is a foam or mousse colour. If you use it on the regrowth it's not powerful enough to deepen 2levels. If a permanent has been used before then this type of colour wouldn't blend the harsher regrowth.

 

[hair_321]

I used to get this problem on my mums hair all the time! I've found adding a 1:4 of a warmer colour to 3/4 base has worked great with 3% which just deposits as 6% lifts and deposits and you don't want any lift also recommend she gets it done a Little more often if needed? Some clients go 8+ weeks with white re growth I've always found the sooner the bet as you don't et the definite colour line from where they have build up to where the colour is on the grey x

 

[Pancakes]

Hey there! I would use a demi permanent with the lowest developer you are supposed to use with your product.
It's true however, some brands leave the hair quite translucent afterwards, so consider leaving on a bit longer for a more opaque finish or pick a tad deeper shade to mix with.
E.G. If you desire a deep 5-0, mix it half with a 4-0 to have enough desposit on your regrowth. But be careful when pulling through to not further darken the lengths! Just wet them in the sink and then apply quickly for a few seconds (maybe even a lighter shade!) The ends tend to grab really fast.
This is how I address this situation on lighter clients who want to be darker, no grays for sure (Using Schwarzkopf)

 

[Dondon90]

Just because you use 3% with a permanent doesn't make it a semi! Also why would you use 6% on her ends if your matching it up on her roots?