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Axiom

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GORILLA WARFARE - MALE WAXING UNCOVERED!

Okay… so ripping hair out of fellas isn’t strictly related to nails, but waxing is one of the most common grooming services for men that fellow Geeks email me about, so I thought the following hints and tips might help those of you venturing into this territory for the first time!

With more men up and down the country finally realising that the werewolf look is not a good one, male waxing is gaining in popularity as a salon service. The back, shoulders, chest and eyebrows are the most common areas chosen for deforestation, although some clients – especially athletes, swimmers and bodybuilders – will also have their legs, underarms and groin areas waxed.

If you never worked on male clients at college, the prospect of slathering hot wax over a hairy back or chest might fill you with trepidation. Or it might fill you with utter glee (you know who you are!). Either way, a little inside knowledge goes a long way in making the whole experience less painful for both you and your client.

So grab your trusty spatula, whack up the temperature on that wax pot, and join me on a magical mystery tour through the unchartered seas of Manscaping!

GENERAL TIPS

If you are new to this waxing malarkey, a good place to start is Katelisa’s excellent tutorial: clicky here!


Your basic waxing technique will stay the same regardless of your client’s gender or body part, but there are some extra considerations you should bear in mind for male clients…
  • When pricing your male waxing services, consider a flexible tariff that allows you to pitch your price according to how hairy the client is and how long the treatment takes you. I recommend quoting the maximum rather than a minimum price on your service menu – this prevents any nasty surprises for the customer when it comes to totting up the bill.
  • If this is your client’s first wax, take time to explain the procedure and answer any questions he may have. Remember that most new male clients will have no point of reference and are likely to be feeling nervous (especially if their girlfriend or mates have got in there first with the teasing and tales of terror).
  • Trim long hair with clippers or scissors before you start – you’ll be able to see the direction of growth much easier and his hair won’t get matted in the wax.
  • Tell him what you’re doing, every step of the way. You know when and why you need to cleanse the skin, powder up and apply after-wax lotion, but most first time waxees won’t know any of this, so don’t leave him guessing what that stinky gloop you’ve just slapped all over his red bits is for.
  • The hair growth patterns mentioned below are generalisations – some chaps have circular “whorls” of hair or growth patterns that defy all logic. Stay vigilant and you can’t go wrong.
  • Finally, a plea on behalf of the brotherhood… Please be nice to us! Men make a song and dance about pain at the best of times, so it doesn’t help if our first waxing experience is performed by a demented dominatrix determined to exact her revenge on the male species. Despite our tough exterior, we’re actually big softies at heart and a little tea and sympathy goes a long way in keeping us coming back.

BLENDING


Blending is a useful technique for creating a natural line between hair and hairlessness, particularly on the shoulders, torso and legs:
  • Apply wax directly to a paper or muslin strip, then fold in half and ‘squidge’ the strip together so that the wax becomes slightly less tacky.
  • Unfold and press the strip gently into the area you want to blend.
  • Remove the strip in the opposite direction to hair growth as normal – this will remove some but not all of the hair, resulting in a gradual thinning that looks more natural than a solid line.
CHEST AND ABDOMEN
  • The chest is one of the most tender areas to have waxed. It is not unusual for the client to experience a histamine reaction and blood spotting, so ensure you wear gloves at all times.
  • As a general rule, the hair in the upper third of the chest grows up towards the head and shoulders. There is then a central line of hair running down the middle of the chest to the navel, with the rest of the hair growing down and in towards this. The exception is a thin line of criss-crossed hair that grows up from the pubic bone to the navel, lovingly referred to by some men as their ‘treasure trail’!
  • Clear the central line first, which will give you a clean edge to work from when waxing the sides of the torso.
  • Turn your client’s head to the side when waxing the top of his chest – you don’t want to accidentally clout him on the nose with a rogue strip!
  • Don’t wax over the nipples, although the edge of the areola is fine.
  • To remove hair from the sides of the neck, ask your client to turn his head to either side as needed. Hair on the throat can be reached by instructing your client to tilt his head backwards, thus extending the neck. This keeps the skin taut, but work in small sections and be wary of applying pressure over the windpipe.
  • When waxing the abdomen, ask your client to pull his underwear down slightly so that you can blend into the waistline. Ensure his clothing is protected with a paper towel or tissues.
  • If the stomach is not firm, ask your client to support the skin by stretching with his hand in one direction while you stretch in the other.

BACK
  • Tuck disposable paper into your client’s underwear to avoid getting wax on his clothing.
  • Ask your client to lie face down with his head resting on his arms, or with his arms hanging over the edge of the couch – this gives you easier access to the sides of the body, but be wary of accidentally catching stray armpit hairs.
  • There tends to be a vertical line of hair down the spinal column, with the rest of the hair growing in towards the spine from the sides of the body. Wax the central line first so that you have a clean edge to work from, then clear either side of this.
  • A back wax doesn’t stop at the first sign of underwear! Ask your client to shuffle his trousers and underwear down slightly, enabling you to blend below the waistband for a more natural finish.
  • If your client is particularly hirsute, he is likely to want his neck and shoulders cleared too (see below). Wax these areas with your client in a seated position.
NECKLINE
  • Instruct your client to sit on the edge of the couch while you work from behind – he can then tilt his head forward and to either side, creating a good stretch in the skin as you work around the nape of the neck.
  • Don’t wax too high into the natural hairline. This area hurts as you venture into the densely packed and deeply rooted hair of the scalp.
  • Friction from a tight shirt collar will irritate freshly waxed skin, and remember that this area is vulnerable to sunburn during the summer months.
SHOULDERS
  • With your client in a seated position, remove all the hair from the cap of the shoulders (front and back), then blend to a couple of inches above the elbow where a t-shirt sleeve would sit.
  • Hair around the cap of the shoulders grows up towards the head, with the rest of the upper arm hair growing in various directions.

LEGS AND FEET
  • Unless your client requests otherwise, a men’s leg wax does not stop halfway up the thigh at the edge of his boxershorts. Terminal hair will usually grow higher up the legs of a male than it does on a female client, and there is often an indistinguishable overlap with the ‘Speedo line’ area.
  • If your client is wearing boxershorts, you may wish to provide him with disposable thong-style underwear to allow for easier waxing. Failing that, ask him to tuck a paper towel into the bottom of his shorts and hoist them up and to the side, allowing you to reach the tops of the thighs.
  • Ask your client to hold himself out of the way as you get higher up the inside leg.
  • The back of the thigh where the leg meets the buttock is an area many therapists find problematic. Get this area while your client is still lying on his back: instruct him to hold his knee to his chest, and wax the underside of the thigh (just below the buttock) before turning him over. This keeps the skin taut, making your job easier and reducing the likelihood of bruising (thanks to Lori Nestore for this tip!).
  • Most chaps will also want the hair on their feet and toes removed as part of a leg wax. Wax these areas at the same time as the knee, with his knee bent and his foot flat on the couch.
EYEBROWS
  • Men’s eyebrows should start just before the inside corner of the eye, about a thumb width apart. Avoid overly sculpted arches, creating instead a gradual tapering to the outer corner. The end point of the brow is the same as with female clients, but use the existing shape as your guide and keep things looking natural – most fellas want to avoid leaving the salon looking like a drag queen.
  • Ignore everything you learnt in college about not waxing above the brows. It’s perfectly okay to remove stray hairs from the temples and forehead that would otherwise ruin a tidy line.
  • Unruly hairs can be trimmed with scissors, but keep this to a minimum.
  • If your client has the odd grey hair or two, ask if he would like them tweezed – this can make a huge difference to the finished look, but don’t go overboard or you’ll end up with bald patches.
EARS
  • Using a low-temperature hard wax, you may remove hair from the tragus, earlobe and outer rim of the ear. Never apply wax inside the ear canal.
  • A damp cotton wad can be placed in the ear to catch any wax that might drip.
Continued...

AFTERCARE
  • Your usual aftercare advice applies, and I recommend you provide your male clients with written instructions to take home and read.
  • The back and chest areas are very prone to breakouts, particularly for first-time waxees, and you should make your customer aware of this possibility.
  • Advise your client to bring a clean cotton t-shirt to change into after his chest/back waxing appointment.
  • Men sweat more than women – freshly waxed follicles, sweat, and friction from clothing are not a happy combination, so definitely no gym, sport or other exercise for the next 24 hours!
  • Use of a loofah or body scrub twice a week will help prevent ingrown hairs. A product containing salicylic acid is an excellent retail opportunity, and your client can also use this on his beard area.
  • Remember to book your client in for his next appointment in 4 to 6 weeks time - explain the importance of keeping regular appointments and if you've done all you can to make this a top-notch experience, he'll be a waxing client for life!
That’s all folks, feel free to message or post here if anything’s not clear!

© Andy Rouillard 2006, all rights reserved.
 
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what a superb tutorial axiom, completely comprehensive.
 
Love it ! I don't offer waxing for men but i do wax my boyfriends neck & shoulders lying down so it will be interesting to try it in a seated position. Thinking about it i can see why it would be easier :)
 
Thank you so very much for such a fantastic tutorial, this is something that I am keen to offer but terrified of doing.

I know you were considering running a male waxing course, if it was relatively easy for me to travel to I would love you as a tutor, you have made the written word so easy to understand.

I cannot believe that you have taken the time and effort to share your immense skills with us so comprehensively, i can only thank you most sincerely for doing so.
 
Great just what I needed. I have been wondering what to do about stopping certain areas and it looking odd. Blending is the answer. I just need to persuade someone to let me have a go on them. My husband wont entertain the idea:irked: .
 
Very consise and helpful tutorial. Thanks for this. I have a male back wax to do in a couple of weeks time and to be honest I was pooping my pants as I havent done one before. I think I am going to be a little less stressed now having read your tutorial.

:hug:
 
marvelous mate - fab tutorial - when's the 'final installment' the 'bs&c'

:green: amb x:green:
 
marvelous mate - fab tutorial - when's the 'final installment' the 'bs&c'

:green: amb x:green:

'Shudder' :cry:

Just a thought tho... when you do 'thinning' does this hurt more than ripping off the complete section of hair? I am getting this image of lots of pain? :eek:
 
marvelous mate - fab tutorial - when's the 'final installment' the 'bs&c'

:green: amb x:green:

Hahaha, you minx, I wondered how long it would be before someone asked about that! :green: :green:

I have written something on Brazilian waxing, but it's quite long (no pun intended!) and as such I think it's better off as a separate article - possibly for Sam's new SkinGeek site when it launches? Watch this space, lol!
 
'Shudder' :cry:

Just a thought tho... when you do 'thinning' does this hurt more than ripping off the complete section of hair? I am getting this image of lots of pain? :eek:

It's more irritating than painful - the trick is to avoid "dabbing" at the skin too much, and instead smooth the strip down lightly and remove it against the hair growth as you normally would. Continue to keep the skin held nice and taut with your other hand as you work. Only go over the area a couple of times at most - this is enough to thin out the last inch or so without your client wanting to run away screaming with a wax strip still attached :D
 
strip wax & hotwax is a consideration also, great post....thanks
People should be "taught" to wax guys before taking on innocent victims.
Just because he's a male doesnt make him feel any less pain.
 
now are you implying I get pleasure out of waxing (hee hee).... AND LOVING IT....

An excellent tutorial honey x
 
Excellent Andy!!! xx
 
Hello there.

I have just been reading this thread and wanted to say i found it very helpfull indeed, easily explained just what I needed.:)

I have recently opened up a small salon within a hairdressers and Have introduced waxing for men though ive only been there 10 weeks I have had the pleasure :) of waxing a couple of men ( back and chest )

my question to you is omg if a male client asks for a BCS treatment, hmmm how would I get around this one?

Im confident with female clients doing Hollywood and Brazillian but never ventured to the male parts lol...

Could you please explain the procedure to me coz I just know one day i,m going to be in this situation and id rather be well prepared if you like without getting to embarrassed as male bits are a bit more intimate than a felmales in my opinion.

I would be very gratefull:)
 
Hello there.

I have just been reading this thread and wanted to say i found it very helpfull indeed, easily explained just what I needed.:)

I have recently opened up a small salon within a hairdressers and Have introduced waxing for men though ive only been there 10 weeks I have had the pleasure :) of waxing a couple of men ( back and chest )

my question to you is omg if a male client asks for a BCS treatment, hmmm how would I get around this one?

Im confident with female clients doing Hollywood and Brazillian but never ventured to the male parts lol...

Could you please explain the procedure to me coz I just know one day i,m going to be in this situation and id rather be well prepared if you like without getting to embarrassed as male bits are a bit more intimate than a felmales in my opinion.

I would be very gratefull:)

Yeah it would be nice to have a tutorial section on male intimate waxing. The S (BSC) is the most confusing to me as I have heard horror stories of sking tearing if done wrong.
 
Yes a tutorial would be great but I would not want to be someone that had read a tutorial and waxed my jewels if you know what I mean.

I want to see a certificate on the wall stating that my therapist was qualified to carry the procedure out. Intimate waxing is a specialist area and as such needs to be carried out very carefully. There are contra indications and actions that differ from your normal day to day waxing.

Get yourself on a recognised course and then you will have all the help and advice you need as well as a step by step !!!!

There are plenty of them out there you just need to look !!!
 
Hi there I wax a males back and he came out in lots of spots after and it took 3 weeks to get better what did i do wrong ????:rolleyes::cry:
 
I read your post out of interest, I own and run a unisex beauty salon and I have been doing male waxing for a long time now. There are very few differences in how we work, which will be down to personal preference.

It is good to hear that other people approach male waxing in the right way, as there are a lot of therapists who DON'T.

A TIP for other readers:
The BSC or Back Sack & Crack, is all hair removed from the backside/bottom the crack of the bottom and the full removal of all hair growth on the scrotum/sack including all the pubic growth. In short everything that grows inside the boxer/speedo line. NOT as I have been wrongly informed by male waxing novices the man’s back to shoulders, crack of the bottom and scrotum only!!!! Why would anyone wax so oddly? (Unless requested that is). :grr:
 
It is good to hear that other people approach male waxing in the right way, as there are a lot of therapists who DON'T.

Hurrah! There are so many waxers out there that think they're doing a Brazilian/Hollywood or a BSC and they are clearly not. xx
 
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Great tutorial, the one part of the male body that i always have difficulty with is the back of the legs just under the buttocks, so it was great to have some tips on this area and will try it on my next client, that is if thay want there legs waxed lol :)
 

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