Guy Tang direct dye

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AJSinger

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Hi, one of my clients has guy tang direct dye. She has had it done twice by myself last year. Last time we done it was December last year.both times I have used guytang direct dyes. Blue on the roots and then purple on the ends or pink. I cannot remember the exact shades. Her hair has faded but she has a green/blue tinge through the top below her roots of course. She nows wants to be platinum blonde. I've told her it won't happen over night and she will need a good chop and it all depends on the condition of her hair. Any advice please ? I've done a bleach wash before but it wasn't on greem/blue and I know they're really tricky colours to get rid of. I'm concerned I won't be able to get rid of that colour. I've also told her I suggest highlights using foils as a gradual process to platinum. Thanks in advance
I'll attach a photo of what her hair looks like now
 

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Haircutz

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You should always use a direct dye remover, never bleach, otherwise you risk it staining the cuticle layer.
If you can’t remove it, try to neutralise it with tint but you‘re very unlikely to get it to Platinum.
 

AJSinger

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Thanks, any recommendations for a direct dye remover? I see Guy Tang is bringing one out in May
I Have told her platinum is a looong way off and she needs to be prepared to wait for it. I think she thinks I can just bleach it and it will be okay
 

Haircutz

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Be really firm about not using bleach as it probably won’t budge if you do. :(

Most of the colour houses that sell their own fashion colour direct dyes offer a direct dye remover now. I think the last one I used was by Joico?
Pulp Riot do one too and I think they’re sold in either Capital or Sally’s.
I’m not based in the U.K. so you’d need to check online but there’s so many options now compared to a few years ago.
 

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Thank you, I genuinely thought I could do a bleach wash as online searches suggests I can!!

And other hairdressers have recommended I Use bleach. So glad I checked on here

I have found a Crazy colour remover in Sally’s and it says it can be used on any direct dyes so I will give that a go and hope for the best

Otherwise, do you think something like a 8/3 will cover it as it has the warmth in it? Okay she will not be platinum but at least she will not be blue!!!!

Or even a 9/3? I thought going a bit darker would be better
 

Haircutz

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It’s a tricky one because the colour molecules in direct dye semi’s sit on the outside of the cuticle layer but the molecules in an oxidising colour go under the cuticle layer so don’t actually cover over it, strictly speaking.

Try the direct dye remover, maybe twice on the blue, and see what you’re left with.

If you’re aiming to neutralise the colour, you’re obviously going to end up with more of a beige than platinum blonde.
I recommend doing a strand test at this point as it’s helpful in terms of showing your client what’s realistically obtainable without ruining the condition of the hair.

Unfortunately, a few clients who like to chop and change their hair colour think that their hair is ‘super strong’ because it’s covered in silicone based conditioners and they equate that soft feeling with being in good condition, when it’s actually just masking damaged porous hair.
 

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I also suspect that the hairdressers recommending bleach haven’t used a colour reducer when removing oxidised colour either. :oops: ;)
 

AJSinger

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Okay I will give the remover a go and see what happens. I am not happy just whacking bleach all over her which I suspect many would do and she probably just expects me to do. I have already prepared her. Wish me luck!!!
 

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Follow the instructions on the colour remover, however, you absolutely MUST agitate the crap out of the hair whilst it's in and whilst you are removing it or the colour will resettle and be back in a couple of days. Malibu colour removers are good, and there's a couple of different ones depending upon the dye already in the hair.
 

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okay thanks. Will the colour come back though if it is a direct dye and it is just sitting on the surface?
I am nervous as I think my clients expectations are not realistic but fingers crossed the remover works. The dye is Guy Tang, and I have found a crazy colour remover which removes direct dyes apparently. It is just a direct dye on her hair, nothing else. And the green is left over from the blue we put on. It has just faded to that. Guy Tang is bringing out his own remover but it is not out in shops yet. Thanks for all your help.
 

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Follow the instructions on the colour remover, however, you absolutely MUST agitate the crap out of the hair whilst it's in and whilst you are removing it or the colour will resettle and be back in a couple of days.
No, I think you’re getting confused with the process used when removing an oxidised colour. (Where you mix the tint with developer.) The tiny molecules left inside the hair shaft re-oxidise and grow big again.

Direct dye (semi) colour molecules are much bigger and sit on the outside of the cuticle layer so once they’ve rinsed away, they’re gone.
 

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We attempted it last night. I tried colour remover twice!! and nothing, did not even budge. She said her mate done her own and bleached it twice and it came out, I said sorry I am not doing that. Put me on edge a bit as I felt like I was being undermined. But anyway, I tried a few different tints (what I had available as I don't stock heaps of colours) and it just went a bit green - I tried a Golden Blonde (level 8) Should I Have maybe tried a red colour? Would that have got rid of the blue and actually turned out really red or just neutralised it? Anyway, we ended up with a dark root and I mixed it with what I had which was rose gold/Majirel Glow L22. I think it looked lovely and she was happy. I just said over time we can let it grow out and keep an eye on the condition and go from there. I am slightly concerned it will just fade back to blue and when she comes back again in a couple ofmonths, I will not know what to do again. Such a headache these kind of corrections.
 

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She also had a very green tinge on the ends
 

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Haircutz

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That looks really lovely. You did a great job and more importantly, the condition won’t be compromised either.

If the direct dye has been left on a while (re-applied?) and applied to porous hair, it was always going to be tricky to remove it fully.

Chances are her mate has chewing gum hair slathered in silicone based conditioners and thinks it’s in great condition... :oops:
 

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Thanks so much. I was so worried and it made me really doubt myself. But I think it looks lovely too. Her hair is not great, I have told her to get some decent conditioning masks now and really look after it but I don't think she will. I also told her to come back for regular cuts. Yep, I reckon her friends hair is not great!!!
 

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Hi, so she is now ready for the next stage, originally she wanted platinum, now she wants balayage. Which might work out better. You can see the photo above, this is what it looked like a few months ago when I tried to get rid of the blue. The purple has faded to a level 9 blonde with hints of green and blue in there still. (not much, mainly underneath) Of course I am not putting bleach over her ends. But I want to add some depth back in there
So over the blue and green tones I was going to use a level 5 brunette/golden brown which should work right? Her roots have faded to a very warm colour, level 7 I would say. I will give her a Face frame but also want to put some depth through, I want to stick with a level 5 to give her the depth she wants in her root and throughout. But do you think I will need to use a pearl 5 through those golden grown out roots or will a flat 5 work? Just worried about that golden look she has atm. Thanks and hope I Have made sense.
 
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