Hair not lifting

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audreyduff

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Looking for some more experienced help as I'm still new to this. Doing a test cutting for a client that I am planning to do a purple ombré on Tuesday. She is currently a base 4 and also has wella 4/0 all over with pink underneath and at the fringe. I have tried to bleach the test cutting with bleach and 3% and after an hour it didn't lift at all so I tried bleach and 6 and after 45 mins it didn't lift either. I applied heat for 2 mins with just my hair dryer and it started to lift which now looks red. Any advice as to why it's not lifting and where to go from here? Thanks in advance
 
ImageUploadedBySalonGeek1408130981.582177.jpg this was after an hour of 3%
 
ImageUploadedBySalonGeek1408131029.105223.jpg this is after 6% and heat added
 
If it won't lift it won't lift!
 
If there has been a lot of colour build up it won't lift. Try a salon protein treatment which can repair the cortex and help budge the colour.

Are you keeping the bleach moist as it's lifting? If you let it dry out it will stop lifting.

Tell your customer it'll be more than a one time colour, it may take a couple of times to lift, and if she wants it purple you'll have to lift it up quite light to see the purple tone.
X
 
If it's a lot of build up of colour u may need 30 vol with heat
 
General levels of lift when bleaching out dark hair is warm browns to red to orange to yellow
 
Has anyone used a colour remover? We never got shown any colour remover in level 2 so not had any experience with it as yet but wondering if this would be a good road to go down or not? Any suggestions would be great
 
I find colour remover good if a client has darkened their hair and changed their mind, so their only removing one coat of colour, I don't find it good for built up colour, I would use bleach and 30vol it works for me
 
Try using the loreal effasor! Or cleansing (bleach bath) the strand x
 
The bleach with 6 and heat is prob as powerful as you can get (without 9% obv)

Remover, cleansing, effasor, bleach bath are all gentler than using just good old bleach.

How did you mix the bleach it's look very thin on that foil.

Don't just bleach it then blast the hair. You haven't lifted but you will still damage, so the client will have a result she didn't want, colour that won't hold, and damage.
 
There may be color build up on her hair which causes more layers of pigment to be penetrated before the actual hair shaft is reached. Faulty developer or lo-grade bleaching powder tough to say! If your just lifting the ends for ombrè do not be afraid to use 9% or a 50/50 mix of 9% + 12%(35volume) developer if the hair is in average health. Slap it on quick,foil it even lo-heat it for 10mins. Usually natural dark hair has a thicker hair shaft to penetrate for chemical services. I also never measure my bleach & mix it according to my needs. I go for consistency of pudding to Greek yogurt still smooth in texture & not powdery. Bleach takes a min or two after mixing to puff up a bit, gauge it after it puffs up! A thicker bleach works well on darker/coarser hair & is stronger than a 50/50 measure. You just need to make sure the hair is coated well with the thicker product as it does not spread as much as thinner bleach mix does. It is stronger too than a measured 50/50 mixture.
 
Thank you for all your replies. I will have a think about it before I go ahead with it. Thanks again
 

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