Haircolor question

#1
Hi everyone! Im new to this site and am hoping maybe some of you seasoned colorists can help me. Im a fairly new stylist, only 1 1/2 years experience. I work out of my home so I dont have any other stylists to ask.
Anyway, i have a client that has nat. level 4/5 hair down to the middle of her back that has been bleach out to a level 9/10. Right now she has about 1 1/2 inch outgrowth. What steps would you take to get her outgrowth match her lengths without banding? Her bleached hair was toned but has faded. Then on top of that she wants dimentional blode so im thinking lowlighting after dealing with the outgrowth. Can someone please give me a few suggestions? If it makes a difference I use Paul Mitchell color line. Thanks for any input.
 

minky

Well-Known Member
#2
Hi hun , welcome to salon geek , I see you are not in the UK but
perhaps you may have similar products over where you are ,

Anyways here is something that may help,

I use a high lift bleach called proclere oil bleach
specially made for on the scalp bleaching only
from a level 4/5 it produces up and beyond (that very pale blonde )
without the burning or the itch ,
it comes with sachets for the degree of lightness you want

its so much less discomfort for the client and I only ever use 6% with it
check it out its fab and fast too .

I get mine from salons direct ,
they also do proclere toners in a range of tones to match

Wella also do a lovely Colour Fresh toner for blond bleached hair in 0/6 sliver ,

The hair first needs to be lightened past that baby chicken yellow blonde and up to that light creamy stage with the proclere oil bleach ,

(but don't go past the creamy stage or condition may be lost and toner will not hold ),

Then when the 0/6 toner is used after washing off the proclere oil bleach , it will give that white platinum blonde look

If you dont want it white blonde you could use one of the other shades in the proclere toners
you will need two or more for longer hair .

ps , always follow all manufactures instructions and always preform strand tests and skin tests before any bleach or tint procedure

minky


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#3
Thanks so much! Im in the US but I have used Wella Blondor powder bleach before. The Paul Mitchell bleach I use is called Dual Purpose for on and off scalp bleaching. If used on scalp only use 10 -20 vol( 3 or 6%) peroxide. Since she has 1 - 1 1/2 inch outgrowth I wouldnt want to to apply directly to scalp area to start would i since it would lift faster with body heat? I would need to apply 1/4 to 1/2 inche from scalp out to the previous blond(not overlapping) then go back in and hit the scalp area? Then process to a close match of previous blonde. Then do I tone entire head avoiding the pourous ends? This particular client makes me especially anxious and makes me feel incompitent for some reason. Then after I do all that, to low light should I just go back in and foil some maybe level 7 lowlights? She doesnt want in her words "brown" lowlights just something for noticeable dimension. Sorry to rattle on. Just grateful someone is willing to help.
 

minky

Well-Known Member
#4
Hi , I would have thought it would be ok to do the bleaching all at once in a warm room as it isn't too much of a re growth, (but as I cannot see it)

if you feel that it is a bit too much of a regrowth
then yes your way might be better .

Just follow the manufactures instructions on the bleach pack as to what volume they recommend for use on the scalp ,
if you do get any yellow tones anywhere , don't worry you can always spot bleach these out .

As for toning if you need to use anything with ash in on the roots to counteract any yellow tones ,
whatever you do don't take the ash through to the ends (in case of grab)
swap it for a natural instead

eg ; just say for instance you used 9/1 on roots for yellow tones then it would be a 9/0 on mid lengths and ends and watch carefully,

do follow all manufactures instructions as to whether you need to apply the toner to wet or dry hair .

If you use Wella do ring the wella helpline for more guidance on toning with their Colours , they are excellent and they can also advise on their bleach product Blondor too.

As for the lowlights I would make it easier on yourself and
do these at the next appointment,
as it may take too long a time doing it all at once.

I think you are very wise to use a level 7 for lowlights,
but I would also do some test pieces first,

I would pick a level 7 with warm gold tones in it ,
as the blonde hair may get grab and go khaki or flat looking if there isn't any warmth or gold in it .

I tend to go no lower than level 6/3 or 7/3 for blonde low lighting as it can sometimes grab and go too dark
but you will find this out with your test pieces first,
then you can add some more warmth accordingly.

Hope this makes sense :hug: x minky

Ps , hopefully some other kind geekys may be able to help also x

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#5
Yes that helped alot. Sometimes you just need someone to confirm your thoughts!
Thanks again
 

minky

Well-Known Member
#6
Hi you are very welcome ,
sometimes I tend to go into lots of detail ,
as I think it may help some other hairdressers who are reading these posts
too :hug: lol x

I know lots of other hairdressers toning tips have helped me loads too x :hug

.
 

Jeni Giles

Well-Known Member
#7
Hi you are very welcome ,
sometimes I tend to go into lots of detail ,
as I think it may help some other hairdressers who are reading these posts
too :hug: lol x

I know lots of other hairdressers toning tips have helped me loads too x :hug

.
More detail the better, too many things to consider with haircolor!! It's always IHO to give more info so that the best choices can be made.


Addressing the 1 1/2 inch outgrowth, you could approach it with the traditional virgin application 1/2 inch away from the scalp then go back in, or a little easier method is to apply scalp out so you can see your band, then lighten it again. (This is what I have to do for my boss- if she has more than 1/4 inch of outgrowth we get a band a rather ugly yellow/gold band!)

The low lights, I agree, don't go darker than a 7, they will appear darker against the blonde any way. I would suggest using a demi permanent or deposit only to avoid overprocessing on her long hair.

Low lighting may take care of your tone issue also, having the darker pieces sometimes mutes the gold or yellow, I would lighten and lowlight, then tone last if I needed too.
 
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