How to find "on-the-scalp" lightener salon?

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Joined
Jul 26, 2015
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Location
Memphis, TN
Hello,

I am a client with a salon finder question. I like whole-head bleached blonde hair, toned to look natural, but really light. For 13 years, I went to a man who used the skinny-tip-bottle method. Without me asking, he used premium special bleach to not damage my hair and not burn my scalp. He sectioned very carefully, including around the bangs and front hairs. Even though my hair is dark brown, he only used 20 volume, then just patiently let it sit for about 40 minutes, without a processing cap or anything. During this time for years and years, I had beautiful long blonde hair. It was one length with no breakage, and I always had all my bangs. Strangers would stop me to tell me how "naturally pretty" my hair was, and that I was lucky to be born that color.

When he sadly quit due to health problems, I called around and spoke directly with several salons, asking very detailed questions about whether they were able to do this kind of hair and if they liked it.These are my experiences:

(1) Professional Salon 1 - Promised me that they knew how to touch up roots without overlapping. When I got there with 1/2 inch regrowth, that same hair styling handed a bowl of bleach to a sweet grandmotherly woman in the back room (a shampoo tech) with barely a word of instruction, & never checked on her. The woman called for another, then another bowl, so she put 3 bowls of bleach in my head. When I looked in my purse mirror, this lady had saturated my whole head with bleach down to my shoulders for no reason. I screamed, and the visit went downhill after that. The owner yelled at me for questioning it and said "How do you know that's not normal? You're not a hair stylist! What do you know?"

(2) Professional Salon 2 - Promised me that they were an expert in on-the-scalp bleach touch-ups. Used cheap powder bleach (to make more of a profit) that burned like fire and made my eyes cry. They used 30 volume when I said at the first visit that my hair has been bleached this color for years with 20 volume. She put me under the dryer with the bleach that made my hair weak. She started out application by putting a big saturated swipe of bleach around my hairlines and down the middle back of my head. There is a kind of hole in the back middle of my head from hair thinning out there. My bangs burned off so badly, they were dissolved underneath the follicle, so the hair couldn't get ahead to even start to grow. It felt like I had a 1/2 inch row of sandpaper on the top of my forehead where my bangs used to be. She sectioned hair really tightly with those metal clips, and the clips cut through the top sections of my hair like a knife. If hair was in the way during sectioning or stuck to a clip, she always just ripped it out.

(3) Professional Salon 3 - I showed her the metal clip damage and burnt off bangs, so she was at least sensitive about that. She did neat sections to her credit. But even though I told her my hair does lift with 20 volume for 40 minutes, with NO heat, she put me under the dryer anyway, to save time and fit in more appointments. It burned off random bald spots on the top and crown of my head. When I brushed my hair, I thought it felt funny, but I didn't see and acknowledge the full extent of the damage until I inspected it with a mirror behind me and was horrified and sad. So I got up the courage to ask her to please NOT use the dryer. She didn't use the dryer, but very suspiciously, my hair turned alien white, almost see-through like saran wrap, in 15 minutes! So obviously she snuck 40 volume on head, to still hurry me up.

(4) Professional Salon 4, yesterday - I called this salon to ask them if they did on-the-scalp bleach. The hairstylist on the phone was very sweet and sympathetic, when I warned her that my hair was damaged. She said of course, they should not have put me under the dryer, because it damages hair. I accidentally thought she was nice, and professional. When I got there, I showed her the clip damage that I was growing out, and just asked her to please not use clips. Whew, her response - "Don't be coming in here with ideas for me to do your hair! I'M THE HAIRSTYLIST HERE! I'm using the clips on your hair." Tears were rolling down my face, because I knew she was about to ruin my hair just like all the others. Another hair stylist pulled her aside and I guess confronted her, because when she came back, she said she would still not use the mini scrunchies that I brought, but she would just section with nothing and not use the clips. Second issue - I said my old hair dresser always used 20 volume for 40 minutes with no heat. I showed her pictures when my hair was long, and bright platinum blonde, that he had lightened with the 20 volume bleach. She scoffed, wouldn't acknowledge the pictures, and said you're hair is dark, I'm putting 30 volume on your hair, and she did. Then she put a cap on it too. It lifted way too quickly for it to be healthy lift. And when she took the cap off, a hot vapour mist came out that she had to fan away, and she laughed and said that was the heat trapped in by the cap.

So just within the past couple years, my hair has become short, damaged, and ratty, starting right after my good hair dresser stopped practicing.

I live in a large metropolitan city. I'm a professional with a career, and would gladly fork over any amount of money to have my hair done right. I'm always really nice, and tip exceedingly well, kind of hoping to make them want to do my hair nice. But it's all in vain. They don't care. The ironic thing is, when I bleach & tone my own hair at home, it works out so much nicer. I do really neat pretty rows and don't saturate my bangs. I only use 20 volume. I only use premium crème lightener. I let it sit and lift gently for 40 minutes. Since I can pay for my hair to be done in a salon, I was hoping to find one that could, but salons haven't been giving me a good reason not to start permanently doing my own hair, which is what I might do.

My question: ARE THERE ANY SECRETS IN THE SALON WORLD, TO FINDING A SALON WHO USES THE "SKINNY TIP BOTTLE METHOD", WHO IS PATIENT TO LET 20 VOLUME LIFT SLOWLY AND GENTLY?

Do they even teach this skinny-tip-bottle method in beauty school? Can you actually graduate nowadays without knowing how to bleach hair?
 
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I don't use a skinny tip but... Seek out a salon that uses goldwell silk lift. It's a super gentle bleach with fantastic lifting power at 20 vol. I do appreciate all the issues you've had have probably knocked your confidence with stylists but there are good ones out there honestly.

I'm not very good with the placement of differ States in the U.S. So I can only be general here. I follow a lot of amazing American stylists on my Instagram, if u go have a look at my following (search kahuna hair) their all on there, I'd also recommend finding a stylist that uses olaplex, they will have to up the developer to 30vol to use this but they can explain the whys for that to you at the time :)
 
As for beauty school teaching, I think stylists who ware scalp bleach on their heads are much more efficient at applying it than those who've never experienced that annoying snappage from overlapping!
 
I heard that Goldwell was good bleach. So earlier I sought out a Goldwell salon and asked them to use that bleach on my head. That was the bleach that burned my scalp like fire. But it was because I assumed they would use Goldwell Silk Lift with the Conditioning Serum, which is what I think my good hair stylist used. But I guess that costs too much money, so they were using plain Goldwell powder bleach instead. It makes me nervous when I ask for something, but I really don't know what ends up on my head, like in that scenario.
 
Kahuna, good point - I'm not bossy or anything, but when they act surprised that I know a few things about bleach then asked me where I learned it, I say, from having my own head bleached for 18 years in a row. :)
 
It's true you get kind of involved more than normal when ur having a scalp bleach I think haha, no the platin bleach is a different product, the silk lift does cost more but as long as ur happy to pay then that's why the salons buy it for, maybe you could try the goldwell website salon finder or ring them and ask who they stock it to locally to you, I bet there's plenty of salons around you you'll just have to investigate :)
 
I am so sorry for the experiences you have had. Their is definitely an artistry involved in on the scalp bleach. Each one of your experiences horrified me. You should never have been treated like you were. Some colorists specialize in double processing blonding, and become very good at it. The best suggestion I can give you is to look for women with hair like you used to have, and ask them where they get their hair done.
 
I would love to know about this technique that you are talking about. I'm gathering it's done with oil lightener?
 
I've just been on a Google adventure searching out this technique. And I've found this. It's been one of those days with my kiddlets on summer holidays. Oh why did it have to rain!!!



I still think I achieve the same result using my bricklaying application with my sprush brush but I want to give this technique a try. Not too keen on the end result tone wise but interesting to find what you're talking about.
 
I'm not sure I like that method much, there's defo significant overlapping going on there, I use a normal tint brush
 
Kahuna totally agree. And think of the waste in the bottle. But I'm still going to try it. I just watched a couple of videos and she seems to do 2 weekly regrowths where I typically colour my clients at 4-6 weeks... Sometimes longer!
 
What bleach will u try it with? I can't imagine silk lift coming out of a bottle that easily, it's too thick.
 
Oooh I want to try silk lift. I'll try my blondor first but I'm not sure my applicator bottles are up for this!
 
Thanks tsparker, actually that's a good idea. When I get the nerve to try another salon, the next time around I will seek out a hair stylist who has long platinum blonde hair on her own head. Platinum blonde hair is weird and different from all other types. I think you really do have to have it on your head to understand the every day nuances and the long term effects. It's like a male OBGYN doctor yelling at a lady giving birth, and saying that it can't hurt that bad, because he went to medical school and she didn't, and he read about how much it hurts in school.
 
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Sugarplumfaery, the skinny tip bottle method is used for regrowth 4 weeks or under. It does save your bangs and front hairs especially, and it keeps less overlap on the whole head. This is what wealthy women such as on Park Avenue use, some who get their roots bleached every 10 days, and in that case using the extra tiny skinny tip. My hairdresser used to squeeze out a row of bleach from the bottle along each thin row of hair, then smooth it down with a gloved finger. He had women drive from 3 hours away every 3 weeks for appointments, to keep their bleached blonde hair healthy enough to grow long. When you use the brush instead, you just have to be very extra careful with the front hairs & bangs, which are more delicate and grow slower than the rest of the head, and use the very tippy-tip of the brush without laying any of it down flat. At least that's what I do when I bleach my roots at home, but I've never had a salon be as careful as I am around the front.
 
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Omg I need park avenue clients! I'm gonna have to relocate!
 
Bleach now a day is too thick for an applicator bottle but there used to be an oil based bleach years back that could be run through a bottle and was known for sensitive scalp applications. I havent seen it in years though and don't remember what it was called. Go head hunting in local salons and look for a stylist working that has similar hair you want and ask for whom ever does her hair.Stop a stranger on the street if they have the hair you desire and ask them whom they see get their name to tell the stylist. I have gotten many good clients this way
 
Redken has brought back the oil lightener under the blonde me range.
 
Tsparkler, have you tried the Redken oil lightener?
 

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