Illumina 10/ help

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james28

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Hi all, need some advice on how to approach correcting a root tint gone wrong!

Natural base: 6 with 50% grey

Hair has been previously tinted at roots and had t section of bleach foils to break up to a lighter overall colour. This was done with another stylist at another salon.

Problem was the bleach was damaging clients hair. Client didn’t want to be a 6 all over as was “too dark”. So decided to go in with 1/2 8/0 and 1/2 8/1 30 vol. Too much warmth was chucked off with this so changed formula to KP 8/0 and /88 special mix with 30 volume. This controlled the issue with too much orange. Have successfully been doing root applications for a few months now with this formula.

Here comes my issue. Today I have done the steps I would normally do, however, stupidly had a mad moment where I thought instead of 3 grams of /88 for every 60g of tint that it was infact 3 grams for every 30!! :/ I do know that it should have been 1.5g per 30 grams of 8/0. I usually count from the target shade up to 11 and know that’s the correct amount for a whole tube of tint. Bottom line during my mad moment I have added 6 grams instead of 3grams of /88.

The root colour has now obviously sunk quite dramatically. It’s a very dull ashen colour. No where near an 8/0.

I didn’t have time to correct it immediately so will be doing it tomorrow. I used clarifying shampoo which removed it a little obviously not enough.

My question is can I use 10/ illumina to shift this back to or close enough to an 8? Would I use it with 30 or 40 volume? Under heat or not? I have used it to remove colour bands before successfully but never on scalp and only when there is a small difference in depth or tone...I don’t want to use lightener, I think it would be too dramatic??? And would go completely against what I have been doing to avoid bleach.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
 
Illumina 10 plus heat? Sorry, but I’m not understanding your thought process?
General rule is that tint won’t lift tint.
You’re just adding ammonia to open the cuticle layer and extra lighter coloured molecules on top of the existing ash colour.

Just use a low developer with bleach to lift out the excess colour. You can always re-tone if you leave it too long
 
Hi all, need some advice on how to approach correcting a root tint gone wrong!

Natural base: 6 with 50% grey

Hair has been previously tinted at roots and had t section of bleach foils to break up to a lighter overall colour. This was done with another stylist at another salon.

Problem was the bleach was damaging clients hair. Client didn’t want to be a 6 all over as was “too dark”. So decided to go in with 1/2 8/0 and 1/2 8/1 30 vol. Too much warmth was chucked off with this so changed formula to KP 8/0 and /88 special mix with 30 volume. This controlled the issue with too much orange. Have successfully been doing root applications for a few months now with this formula.

Here comes my issue. Today I have done the steps I would normally do, however, stupidly had a mad moment where I thought instead of 3 grams of /88 for every 60g of tint that it was infact 3 grams for every 30!! :/ I do know that it should have been 1.5g per 30 grams of 8/0. I usually count from the target shade up to 11 and know that’s the correct amount for a whole tube of tint. Bottom line during my mad moment I have added 6 grams instead of 3grams of /88.

The root colour has now obviously sunk quite dramatically. It’s a very dull ashen colour. No where near an 8/0.

I didn’t have time to correct it immediately so will be doing it tomorrow. I used clarifying shampoo which removed it a little obviously not enough.

My question is can I use 10/ illumina to shift this back to or close enough to an 8? Would I use it with 30 or 40 volume? Under heat or not? I have used it to remove colour bands before successfully but never on scalp and only when there is a small difference in depth or tone...I don’t want to use lightener, I think it would be too dramatic??? And would go completely against what I have been doing to avoid bleach.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
Kokeston perfect 10/0 will lift through tint. But personally I think I'd just use bleach and water this won't lift the hair and will just remove tone. But 10/0 with 6% will be enough if you didn't want to use bleach and water.
 
Illumina 10 plus heat? Sorry, but I’m not understanding your thought process?
General rule is that tint won’t lift tint.
You’re just adding ammonia to open the cuticle layer and extra lighter coloured molecules on top of the existing ash colour.

Just use a low developer with bleach to lift out the excess colour. You can always re-tone if you leave it too long

Thanks for replying :) think I’ll have to give in and use bleach as you say.

Logic behind the 10/ came from Wella colour specialist. She uses it when colour has been applied over colour and a band forms. Obviously I haven’t applied colour over colour I have put the wrong colour over virgin regrowth. Unfortunately she is on holiday so I am left fending for myself :/. I don’t understand how or why that works and as a result didn’t want to attempt it if it wasn’t the correct scenario to be using it.
 
In future use /81 to avoid this issue. /88, /66 and /11 are very dense and tend to unnecessarily drag the depth down I find. Replace with /81 for /11 and /88 and /65 for /66.
 
Thanks. I’ll just use bleach and explain to the client. Colour specialist is away and don’t want to be heading into correction territory without advice from a more experienced colourist. I’ll stick with what I know and use bleach! Thanks
 
Just checked and they no longer do /81[emoji24] sorry for misinformation!
 
In future use /81 to avoid this issue. /88, /66 and /11 are very dense and tend to unnecessarily drag the depth down I find. Replace with /81 for /11 and /88 and /65 for /66.

Thank you. That’s useful to know. Will defo do that next time.

Do you think I have identified the natural base incorrectly and that she may actually be a 5? If she was infact a 5 I would be lifting to a 7 with 30 vol and infact be working with the underlying pigment of a 7? Hence so much orange left in the first place as I’m treating it as if I have lifted up to an 8. I have just never seen so much orange before at what should be an “8” Or am I seriously overthinking it.

Thanks again for replying I appreciate the advice. :)
 
Thank you. That’s useful to know. Will defo do that next time.

Do you think I have identified the natural base incorrectly and that she may actually be a 5? If she was infact a 5 I would be lifting to a 7 with 30 vol and infact be working with the underlying pigment of a 7? Hence so much orange left in the first place as I’m treating it as if I have lifted up to an 8. I have just never seen so much orange before at what should be an “8” Or am I seriously overthinking it.

Thanks again for replying I appreciate the advice. :)
Its possible. An 8 is considered to be yellow in undertone, however sometimes if someone has a lot of pheomelanin (orange/yellow/red) then you may still see orange at an 8 when lifting with tint. So it could be either really. I'd try not to stress too much about it.

I think a true 8 is one of the hardest colours to achieve, its either too light or too dark, too warm or too cool.

I also find a lot of people mistake a natural depth 7 for an 8 when in fact the latter is very rare and a lot lighter than people realise!
 
Thanks for replying :) think I’ll have to give in and use bleach as you say.

Logic behind the 10/ came from Wella colour specialist. She uses it when colour has been applied over colour and a band forms. Obviously I haven’t applied colour over colour I have put the wrong colour over virgin regrowth. Unfortunately she is on holiday so I am left fending for myself :/. I don’t understand how or why that works and as a result didn’t want to attempt it if it wasn’t the correct scenario to be using it.


10/ illumina and 10/0 does remove bands. When I did my Master Colour expert training with Wella we were told this for banding. I use it all the time still and it still amazes me, we all know the rule tint wont lift tint but this works.

The short of it is there is the minimum amount of tone in a 10 (/0 which is an artificial colour is in the smallest quantity). by having the smallest amount of tone there is hardly any pigment present so therefore it helps to break through some artificial color enough to remove banding.

The method is apply, once banding has been removed comb off excess colour and apply target shade over the top. However if it was in your situation I would remove it, dry and assess to see if you need to recolour once its dry.

I know people use bleach and water to remove tone but I only recommend this on lighter blonde as I personally feel you do get a shift in colour aswell as tone, if it is just the roots you need to treat then bleach and water will affect the ends and if theres alot of different porosity levels you're going to get more problems coming up.
 
10/ illumina and 10/0 does remove bands. When I did my Master Colour expert training with Wella we were told this for banding. I use it all the time still and it still amazes me, we all know the rule tint wont lift tint but this works.

The short of it is there is the minimum amount of tone in a 10 (/0 which is an artificial colour is in the smallest quantity). by having the smallest amount of tone there is hardly any pigment present so therefore it helps to break through some artificial color enough to remove banding.

The method is apply, once banding has been removed comb off excess colour and apply target shade over the top. However if it was in your situation I would remove it, dry and assess to see if you need to recolour once its dry.

I know people use bleach and water to remove tone but I only recommend this on lighter blonde as I personally feel you do get a shift in colour aswell as tone, if it is just the roots you need to treat then bleach and water will affect the ends and if theres alot of different porosity levels you're going to get more problems coming up.

Thanks! That was really helpful. Gunna give the 10/ a try. What peroxide’s can be used for this type of application? I know it’s hard to say for certain without seeing it, but are there any important do’s and don’ts?
 
10/ illumina and 10/0 does remove bands. When I did my Master Colour expert training with Wella we were told this for banding. I use it all the time still and it still amazes me, we all know the rule tint wont lift tint but this works.

The short of it is there is the minimum amount of tone in a 10 (/0 which is an artificial colour is in the smallest quantity). by having the smallest amount of tone there is hardly any pigment present so therefore it helps to break through some artificial color enough to remove banding.

The method is apply, once banding has been removed comb off excess colour and apply target shade over the top. However if it was in your situation I would remove it, dry and assess to see if you need to recolour once its dry.

I know people use bleach and water to remove tone but I only recommend this on lighter blonde as I personally feel you do get a shift in colour aswell as tone, if it is just the roots you need to treat then bleach and water will affect the ends and if theres alot of different porosity levels you're going to get more problems coming up.

Thanks! That was really helpful. Gunna give the 10/ a try. What peroxide’s can be used for this type of application? I know it’s hard to say for certain without seeing it, but are there any important do’s and don’ts?
 
Thanks! That was really helpful. Gunna give the 10/ a try. What peroxide’s can be used for this type of application? I know it’s hard to say for certain without seeing it, but are there any important do’s and don’ts?

They say use 12% for best results but you could always try 9%. not really any does and don'ts but I would say apply plenty of colour and be neat and precise (which I'm sure you will).
 

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