Illumina level 5 ash brown advice

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artemiss

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Trying to achieve level 5 ash brown on a level 6 (virgin hair) with Illumina. Fine wavy hair that pulls a lot of warmth even with low developer.

Wella tends to run dark, so I'm worried 5/81 will be almost black in some lighting.. do you think if I mix with half 6/16 it will be enough to counteract the brassy warmth and not be too dark?
Should I use 6% as suggested or could I get away with 4% CT developer? I've seen some root formulas using 4% but I imagine it won't deposit that well.

I tried 6/19 (with 6%) a few years ago on this person, and it was so warm.
Now that I'm comparing 6/19 vs 6/16 swatches in the Wella catalog, the 6/19 swatch does look warm, even though it's technically ash cendre... I understand swatches are not indicative of results, but its strange that its presented as warm... any thoughts on this?
 
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Trying to achieve level 5 ash brown on a level 6 (virgin hair) with Illumina. Fine wavy hair that pulls a lot of warmth even with low developer.

Wella tends to run dark, so I'm worried 5/81 will be almost black in some lighting.. do you think if I mix with half 6/16 it will be enough to counteract the brassy warmth and not be too dark?
Should I use 6% as suggested or could I get away with 4% CT developer? I've seen some root formulas using 4% but I imagine it won't deposit that well.

I tried 6/19 (with 6%) a few years ago on this person, and it was so warm.
Now that I'm comparing 6/19 vs 6/16 swatches in the Wella catalog, the 6/19 swatch does look warm, even though it's technically ash cendre... I understand swatches are not indicative of results, but its strange that its presented as warm... any thoughts on this?
5/81 + 6/16 used to be one of my favourites in illumina. If you want to minimise warmth I'd use 4%. With wella 6% is same level or 1 level of lift so this doesn't tick either of your boxes. 4% will be ample. 1.9% will give you deposit but the coverage will be more sheer - much like a demi permanent /quasi.
Also illumina always appears slightly darker because its naturally cooler than the other ranges. It has a slight violet undertone.
 

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