Illumina

[SS1506]

Anyone tried Wella Illumina 10/96 with 12% instead of high lift 12/1 on base 6/7?

 

[cassies97]

10/69*

Not on a base 6 no, 3 shades of lift maximum so why would you consider it for a 6?

You'd need to mix in a bit of something with pearl in too to neutralise the orange from a 7.

 

[SS1506]

10/69*

Not on a base 6 no, 3 shades of lift maximum so why would you consider it for a 6?

You'd need to mix in a bit of something with pearl in too to neutralise the orange from a 7.

I know yes but sometimes you want a softer blonde , sometimes 12/1 goes too light and mixing 12/0 makes it too gold. Would you just keep 12/1 and use 9%?
Someone told me to try 12/1 and 6% but leave for 90 mins to get good result less gold he claimed & also less stress for scalp. I haven't tried this yet as I cant believe it wouldn't be too brassy!

 

[cassies97]

I know yes but sometimes you want a softer blonde , sometimes 12/1 goes too light and mixing 12/0 makes it too gold. Would you just keep 12/1 and use 9%?
Someone told me to try 12/1 and 6% but leave for 90 mins to get good result less gold he claimed & also less stress for scalp. I haven't tried this yet as I cant believe it wouldn't be too brassy!

It wouldnt give you a softer blonde on a base 6 though. 10/69 is made to neutralise on a level 10, the results would end up very warm because it wouldn't lift to a level 10.

You should be using 12 line with 12% on a base 6.

12/1 isn't really the best option for a highlift. Ash doesn't neutralise anything.

It stops working after 60-65 minutes so leaving it on for 90 would be pointless.

 

[SS1506]

It wouldnt give you a softer blonde on a base 6 though. 10/69 is made to neutralise on a level 10, the results would end up very warm because it wouldn't lift to a level 10.

You should be using 12 line with 12% on a base 6.

12/1 isn't really the best option for a highlift. Ash doesn't neutralise anything.

It stops working after 60-65 minutes so leaving it on for 90 would be pointless.

Don't you find though that 12/81 or 12/61can leave pink or violet staining - especially along hair line?

 

[cassies97]

Don't you find though that 12/81 or 12/61can leave pink or violet staining - especially along hair line?

Not if your applications on point, definitely not on a base 6 either, but I wouldn't use 12/61 on a base 6!

 

[SS1506]

so what would you use??

 

[cassies97]

so what would you use??

For what result?

 

[SS1506]

For what result?

Ok so customer in mind is base 6, approx 25% grey (the front hairline is particularly white so will not be using 12/ on that will apply 9 & 6%. Rest normally use 12/1 & 12% koleston, which I love normally even though you don't recommend it... Tried different brands in past but settled on this while ago & she was happy. Now she feels its getting too light, - doesn't want darker foils put in but wants a different tone of blonde. More cream but not gold. I tried 12/0 & 12/1 last time but that goes the other extreme - too yellow in places.
Have used toner which looks great straight after colour but doesn't hold & high lifts are designed for single colour process so shouldn't really need a toner. I
I am mobile by way, not worked in salon for while. Am going to book myself on course as refresher I think so can learn different methods/applications as I use same things all the time - because I know they work, I don't get chance to play around much with different things, so its good to see what other professionals are doing.

 

[cassies97]

Theres absolutely nothing wrong with toning after a highlift.

Try 9/8 kp with 12%.

Or 9/60 with a few cm 7/81 in illumina with 12%.

Everyone lifts differently so some base 6's may have great results with 12/1, but most of the time 12/1 isn't a great option.

 

[SS1506]

Theres absolutely nothing wrong with toning after a highlift.

Try 9/8 kp with 12%.

Or 9/60 with a few cm 7/81 in illumina with 12%.

Everyone lifts differently so some base 6's may have great results with 12/1, but most of the time 12/1 isn't a great option.

Thanks for all the advice
You surprise me though with your response as you say illumine 10/69 wont lift enough but you advice base 9. I wouldn't of dreamt of trying that on base 6. Happy to do some test pieces though...fingers crossed.

 

[cassies97]

Thanks for all the advice
You surprise me though with your response as you say illumine 10/69 wont lift enough but you advice base 9. I wouldn't of dreamt of trying that on base 6. Happy to do some test pieces though...fingers crossed.

Well yeah cause you only get 3 shades of lift with 12%... So why would a 10 be any exception?

 

[Kreativehair]

I really struggle with blondes on a base 6. Had a client tonight base 6 could be near on the 5 side! Anyway i used wella 12/89+0/81+40vol for 60mins, was really warm. Is there anything else i can do i have been through all the hi lifts.

 

[cassies97]

I really struggle with blondes on a base 6. Had a client tonight base 6 could be near on the 5 side! Anyway i used wella 12/89+0/81+40vol for 60mins, was really warm. Is there anything else i can do i have been through all the hi lifts.

Bleach and tone if you're trying to get it up to a 10.

 

[tsparker78]

Thanks for all the advice
You surprise me though with your response as you say illumine 10/69 wont lift enough but you advice base 9. I wouldn't of dreamt of trying that on base 6. Happy to do some test pieces though...fingers crossed.

Excuse me if this ground has already been covered, but i believe what cams is saying is that your only going to get three shades of lift with 12% so using a 10 won't give you enough deposit to nuetralize the warmth exposed when lifting from a 6 to a 9. So you might as well use a 9 that has enough pigment instead of a 10. Yes?

 

[cassies97]

Excuse me if this ground has already been covered, but i believe what cams is saying is that your only going to get three shades of lift with 12% so using a 10 won't give you enough deposit to nuetralize the warmth exposed when lifting from a 6 to a 9. So you might as well use a 9 that has enough pigment instead of a 10. Yes?

Yes!![emoji120][emoji120][emoji120]

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

I get you Cam!

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

I find 12/89 and 12/81 better on the 6 level- level 6 can be heavily pigmented. If I feel I need more tone I add /81 but never more than 5 grams per 30g tint.

You always do the hairline last as the hair there is so fine hence why it grabs too much tone. A lot of hairstylists use the hot cross bun method, outlining first where as now it's recommended to do the bricklaying method to ensure the colour lifts evenly without grabbing around the hairline. Also careful not to overlap! Hope that helps. Cam gave great advice!

 

[cassies97]

I find 12/89 and 12/81 better on the 6 level- level 6 can be heavily pigmented. If I feel I need more tone I add /81 but never more than 5 grams per 30g tint.

You always do the hairline last as the hair there is so fine hence why it grabs too much tone. A lot of hairstylists use the hot cross bun method, outlining first where as now it's recommended to do the bricklaying method to ensure the colour lifts evenly without grabbing around the hairline. Also careful not to overlap! Hope that helps. Cam gave great advice!

Thanks!

Wellas brickwork sectioning is the best, so clean.

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

I know! Took me a few goes to get used to it and now I don't do anything else