Koleston special blonde assistance!

[Mikalex6585]

Hi everyone! I'm looking for a little assistance. I am new to using koleston (I'm mobile and have previously used Viton/maijrel). After much recommendation I have tried Koleston 12/1 and have been very pleased with the results. However! my most recent client (base colour 6) experienced a slight gold/orange tint at the roots. This has faded with purple shampoo used each week, but I can tell my client is a little disheartened (as am i). I would like to continue using koleston as I impressed with the coverage and condition it leaves the hair. I am due to see my client again shortly, I think she is happy to continue with the colour, but can any recommend a remedy to avoid the dreaded brassy roots?. In the past when using Viton (9.0 super light blonde) I have added a little ash blonde to the mix. Is this possible with the koleston range? I have heard great things about 12/89 and 12/96. Could a little of either mixed with 12/1 solve this problem?.

Please note I am using 9% (30 vol) developer.

I appreciate any advice you can give me!

 

[ronray]

Hi everyone! I'm looking for a little assistance. I am new to using koleston (I'm mobile and have previously used Viton/maijrel). After much recommendation I have tried Koleston 12/1 and have been very pleased with the results. However! my most recent client (base colour 6) experienced a slight gold/orange tint at the roots. This has faded with purple shampoo used each week, but I can tell my client is a little disheartened (as am i). I would like to continue using koleston as I impressed with the coverage and condition it leaves the hair. I am due to see my client again shortly, I think she is happy to continue with the colour, but can any recommend a remedy to avoid the dreaded brassy roots?. In the past when using Viton (9.0 super light blonde) I have added a little ash blonde to the mix. Is this possible with the koleston range? I have heard great things about 12/89 and 12/96. Could a little of either mixed with 12/1 solve this problem?.

Please note I am using 9% (30 vol) developer.

I appreciate any advice you can give me!

12/81 is the going to be the best for lifting from a base 6

 

[ronray]

12/81 is the going to be the best for lifting from a base 6

Or if you have 12/1 that you want to use up mix it equal amounts with 12/89

 

[Sparklegirl91]

(Maybe try 12/89 or 12/81 + a little 12/61)
Wella only recommend the 12/ special blonde series for use on a natural base of 7 or higher, when using on a darker base you have to tone or even sometimes double tone afterwards.. I usually use colour touch 10/6 + 10/81 or 9/16 + 8/81 to tone out the remaining warmth after using them on the darker bases.
I’ve been using wella for 15 years and I always found the special blondes give best results with 12% or 40vol unless it’s a natural base 8 or higher & since the change over to KPME+ I’ve found I need to leave them on up to 70mins also to achieve the same level of lift which was previously achievable in 50-60mins when using the Old formula Koleston

 

[Joanne Marie]

(Maybe try 12/89 or 12/81 + a little 12/61)
Wella only recommend the 12/ special blonde series for use on a natural base of 7 or higher, when using on a darker base you have to tone or even sometimes double tone afterwards.. I usually use colour touch 10/6 + 10/81 or 9/16 + 8/81 to tone out the remaining warmth after using them on the darker bases.
I’ve been using wella for 15 years and I always found the special blondes give best results with 12% or 40vol unless it’s a natural base 8 or higher & since the change over to KPME+ I’ve found I need to leave them on up to 70mins also to achieve the same level of lift which was previously achievable in 50-60mins when using the Old formula Koleston

Do you have any advice on 12/11 it too has changed and leaving orange roots. I have used it for years and now it has left me stuck I tried shwatzcoff 12/11 but still yellow /orange and I use this on a lot of my clients so please help

 

[Mikalex6585]

12/81 is the going to be the best for lifting from a base 6

Thank you. Would this be ok with 30 vol?

 

[ronray]

Thank you. Would this be ok with 30 vol?

You will only achieve 3-4 levels of lift with 30vol
But you can get 4-5 levels of lift with 40vol

 

[ronray]

You will only achieve 3-4 levels of lift with 30vol
But you can get 4-5 levels of lift with 40vol

Make sure you leave it the full 60 mins.

 

[Mikalex6585]

Make sure you leave it the full 60 mins.

Great thanks for your help. I'm going to pick up the 12/81 shade tomorrow. I'm tempted to try it myself too!.

 

[Mikalex6585]

(Maybe try 12/89 or 12/81 + a little 12/61)
Wella only recommend the 12/ special blonde series for use on a natural base of 7 or higher, when using on a darker base you have to tone or even sometimes double tone afterwards.. I usually use colour touch 10/6 + 10/81 or 9/16 + 8/81 to tone out the remaining warmth after using them on the darker bases.
I’ve been using wella for 15 years and I always found the special blondes give best results with 12% or 40vol unless it’s a natural base 8 or higher & since the change over to KPME+ I’ve found I need to leave them on up to 70mins also to achieve the same level of lift which was previously achievable in 50-60mins when using the Old formula Koleston

Thank you for your reply. I'm going to pick up the 12/81 shade tomorrow, I think I will grab a 12/61 too... how much have you added to the mix?

I

 

[cassies97]

Do you have any advice on 12/11 it too has changed and leaving orange roots. I have used it for years and now it has left me stuck I tried shwatzcoff 12/11 but still yellow /orange and I use this on a lot of my clients so please help

As the /1 in wella is ash, which refers to a mixture of green and blue (if i remember correctly) its not actually potent enough to totally neutralise warmth.

If you think back to your underlying pigments, depending on the starting base, you'll be going through a lot of orange when lifting especially when using a highlift with 12% you'll be exposing more warmth. You're gonna need pure blue to neutralise that so I'd recommend switching to 12/81 then you have the /8 which is pearl (blue) to counteract warmth.

The only time I'd recommend using 12/11 is on a natural base 8 or above that shows no obvious warmth.

As a heads up, you can also tone after a highlift just as you would with a scalp bleach, if its still too warm.

Hope that helps.

 

[Sparklegirl91]

Thank you for your reply. I'm going to pick up the 12/81 shade tomorrow, I think I will grab a 12/61 too... how much have you added to the mix?

I

I usually add only a couple of inches of it to the mix maybe like 4g

 

[Mikalex6585]

Make sure you leave it the full 60 mins.

I usually add only a couple of inches of it to the mix maybe like 4g

Hello, Just wanted to let you know I tried the 12/81 yesterday and the results were absolutely perfect! I am so grateful for your advice.

Thank you from a very happy client and colourist!

 

[Gg.]

Hi, I’ve had the same problem. Did you use the full tube of 12/81 and a little bit of the 12/61 with 30vol? And did you leave it on an hour? Thank you, lucky enough it was my mums hair so I didn’t have the client shock when we washed it off. We are doing it again today as she’s off on holiday tomorrow

 

[ronray]

Hi, I’ve had the same problem. Did you use the full tube of 12/81 and a little bit of the 12/61 with 30vol? And did you leave it on an hour? Thank you, lucky enough it was my mums hair so I didn’t have the client shock when we washed it off. We are doing it again today as she’s off on holiday tomorrow

A full tube of colour is 60g special blonde is mixed 1:2 so you'd get 120g of working product. Unless you're doing a full colour you'd never need that amount of colour.

 

[November66]

12/81 is the going to be the best for lifting from a base 6

Can you use 12/81 with 12/11? I want to achieve ash blonde no yellow brassy hair which currently my client also has from using half 12/1 with a quarter 12/11 used these colours for years together for highlights ,but the last time has gone yellow brassy ? Thanks

 

[November66]

Can you use 12/81 with 12/11? I want to achieve ash blonde no yellow brassy hair which currently my client also has from using half 12/1 with a quarter 12/11 used these colours for years together for highlights ,but the last time has gone yellow brassy ? Thanks

Also why has hair gone brassy with 12/1 and 12/11 never happened before in all these years . Thanks

 

[ronray]

Also why has hair gone brassy with 12/1 and 12/11 never happened before in all these years . Thanks

Was the developer 12% and was it left on for the full 60 mins?
/11 tone is a very lazy tone. It doesn't perform well because it's only designed to subdue warmth and not neutralise it. 12/89 was always the best lift I'd ever achieved. But on a base 6 it will always difficult to get get to a clean level 10 anyway. For a pure level 10 ideally highlift needs to be used on a level 7.

 

[November66]

Was the developer 12% and was it left on for the full 60 mins?
/11 tone is a very lazy tone. It doesn't perform well because it's only designed to subdue warmth and not neutralise it. 12/89 was always the best lift I'd ever achieved. But on a base 6 it will always difficult to get get to a clean level 10 anyway. For a pure level 10 ideally highlift needs to be used on a level 7.

Hi there , thank you for your message. Yes it was 12% and yes left on for 60 mins . Base 7 . With your advice will use only 12/89 12% 2:1. . Thank you can you confirm this please .

 

[ronray]

Hi there , thank you for your message. Yes it was 12% and yes left on for 60 mins . Base 7 . With your advice will use only 12/89 12% 2:1. . Thank you can you confirm this please .

Yeah that's what I'd do, you can also add in extra special mix to give extra tone. But I wouldn't do that straight off. Did she have anything in her hair? I.e dry shampoo? Root spray?