Massively out of practise...trying to refresh my knowledge. Am I remembering my colour theory correctly?

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Therealhyacinth

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Qualified 10+ years ago but haven't really done any hairdressing for the last 5 years. I'm wanting to refresh my knowledge and skills.
I plan to book on a few local courses but am just wanting to make sure i'm on the right track with remembering my theory etc. correctly.

I think I remember the colour wheel and opposing tones pretty well and levels of lift. I'm just wanting to confirm that I'm still okay with things like mixing colour, grey coverage etc.
If I post a few examples below and what I would do for them could somebody just reply to confirm i'm correct or point me in the right direction if not? Thanks so much in advance. (In the examples below i'm going off the wella tones)

1. 70% Grey client with build up of dark box dyes on mid lengths and ends. Currently sitting around a level 4 and quite neutral. Doesn't want to be as dark anymore and wants some more dimension to their colour. Prefers the warmer / neutral tones to anything cool. Strand tests show that her coloured hair won't lift any lighter than a level 8. I'm thinking my suggestion would be to bleach the mid lengths and ends with 6% and then do a full head of highlights depositing 8/73 with a root/full head colour of something like 30ml 6/0 with 2.5ml of /5 (using rule of 11 to get the measurements)

2. Level 8 saying their hair is too warm and want it ashier. Currently throwing a lot of strong yellow tones. I'm thinking I would put 8/11 all over to counteract the yellow and add ash, 8/1 if it was a milder yellow.

3. Level 8 processed blonde wanting to be a dark cool tone red. Currently quite ashy. I'm thinking 5/41 for a red with a slightly purple tone from the Ash. Going 3 levels deeper so i'd possibly pre-pig with /44 wella perfecton first.

Hoping i'm not too far off the mark and haven't forgotten everything but prepared to be told i'm beyond help =D
 
Qualified 10+ years ago but haven't really done any hairdressing for the last 5 years. I'm wanting to refresh my knowledge and skills.
I plan to book on a few local courses but am just wanting to make sure i'm on the right track with remembering my theory etc. correctly.

I think I remember the colour wheel and opposing tones pretty well and levels of lift. I'm just wanting to confirm that I'm still okay with things like mixing colour, grey coverage etc.
If I post a few examples below and what I would do for them could somebody just reply to confirm i'm correct or point me in the right direction if not? Thanks so much in advance. (In the examples below i'm going off the wella tones)

1. 70% Grey client with build up of dark box dyes on mid lengths and ends. Currently sitting around a level 4 and quite neutral. Doesn't want to be as dark anymore and wants some more dimension to their colour. Prefers the warmer / neutral tones to anything cool. Strand tests show that her coloured hair won't lift any lighter than a level 8. I'm thinking my suggestion would be to bleach the mid lengths and ends with 6% and then do a full head of highlights depositing 8/73 with a root/full head colour of something like 30ml 6/0 with 2.5ml of /5 (using rule of 11 to get the measurements)

2. Level 8 saying their hair is too warm and want it ashier. Currently throwing a lot of strong yellow tones. I'm thinking I would put 8/11 all over to counteract the yellow and add ash, 8/1 if it was a milder yellow.

3. Level 8 processed blonde wanting to be a dark cool tone red. Currently quite ashy. I'm thinking 5/41 for a red with a slightly purple tone from the Ash. Going 3 levels deeper so i'd possibly pre-pig with /44 wella perfecton first.

Hoping i'm not too far off the mark and haven't forgotten everything but prepared to be told i'm beyond help =D
1. 8/73 over a prelightened warm base will be very warm, but will create a lovely colour against a darker base colour.
2. I'd reconsider using double ash on yellow hair.
As you've mentioned rule of 11 I'm assuming it's wella colour theory you're referring to.
So /11 is a green silver Ash. If you added green to yellow you'd get Yellow - green (khaki)
You need to add violet to your formula to counteract the yellow too.
But everything else is spot on.
 
If you’ve not got much recent experience, you might want to read up on colour removing techniques and have a little play around.

Using a colour reducer in one longer initial appointment instead of booking several appointments for bleach highlights is a real game changer. You need to charge properly for the service but it means that the client leaves with a fabulous new colour instead of them having to return 3 or 4 times and living with less than perfect hair between appointments.

https://www.salongeek.com/threads/colour-reducers-versus-colour-strippers.315126/
 
If you’ve not got much recent experience, you might want to read up on colour removing techniques and have a little play around.

Using a colour reducer in one longer initial appointment instead of booking several appointments for bleach highlights is a real game changer. You need to charge properly for the service but it means that the client leaves with a fabulous new colour instead of them having to return 3 or 4 times and living with less than perfect hair between appointments.

https://www.salongeek.com/threads/colour-reducers-versus-colour-strippers.315126/


Thanks AcidPerm, I have had a read of that thread and it was very informative. So just to check I understand it correctly; depending what's been used on the hair in the past will effect how the colour remover turns out. It's not just a magical "boom, here's your natural colour back" - as that's not how colour works. For instance; say somebody is a natural level 5 but has been lightened in the past to a level 8 but then had a red dye applied and then a dark brown and then a colour remover is used - you're likely going to get an outcome that ranges anywhere from yellow to red and could be quite patchy depending on porosity etc? Multiple applications could lead to a yellow/orange result based on the previously lightened hair. Am I right in my thinking here?

Whereas, on a natural level 5 that's only ever had darker dyes applied and then has colour remover applied you're more likely to end up with a result that is similar to their natural colour as there's never been any lifting done and so their natural colour should come through?

Have I understood this right? I just don't want to book into a course and be the most out of date person there - much rather have some knowledge under my belt and be able to feel a bit less anxious.
 
Thanks AcidPerm, I have had a read of that thread and it was very informative. So just to check I understand it correctly; depending what's been used on the hair in the past will effect how the colour remover turns out. It's not just a magical "boom, here's your natural colour back" - as that's not how colour works. For instance; say somebody is a natural level 5 but has been lightened in the past to a level 8 but then had a red dye applied and then a dark brown and then a colour remover is used - you're likely going to get an outcome that ranges anywhere from yellow to red and could be quite patchy depending on porosity etc? Multiple applications could lead to a yellow/orange result based on the previously lightened hair. Am I right in my thinking here?

Whereas, on a natural level 5 that's only ever had darker dyes applied and then has colour remover applied you're more likely to end up with a result that is similar to their natural colour as there's never been any lifting done and so their natural colour should come through?

Have I understood this right? I just don't want to book into a course and be the most out of date person there - much rather have some knowledge under my belt and be able to feel a bit less anxious.
Unfortunately the hair never returns to its natural colour after its been tinted. Because any oxidative colour will change your natural hair, underlying pigment is exposed - always why people's hair "fades warm" never cool.
You still have to expect there to be traces of colour left in the hair.
Also colour removers will not work if a non oxidative colour has been used.
 

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