Microblading questions: colour, shape

[esmelashes1]

Hi all! I have been doing microblading for a while (in Los Angeles where I live), but not that much so my confidence isn't that high. I had a potential client come in to see me who had brows done elsewhere. The initial colour was too dark so the artist filled in with a brown at the follow up. However, the initial dark strokes are still visible, really quite thick as well. I haven't quite figured out when a person comes back for the touch up, should you just fill in where the first strokes didn't take at all or can you go over visible strokes as well? I was concerned that by opening up the skin again with a more preferable brown ink (where you can still see pigment) that it would make the ink bleed...the end result would look very blurry which would be terrible! Any ideas if or how I can help this client and colour correct those dark strokes? Or is it best to leave it and just tidy up where I can without going over any of the dark strokes?
Thank you so much in advance, I am grateful to have this community!
~ Esme

 

[Dermagraph Microblading]

Hi Esme.. without seeing your client, I'm hesitant to advise but I'll try to help if I can. Colour correction is the most challenging aspect of microblading and you have to start by managing your client's expectations. It can take several appointments to make a significant colour change and, if you are trying to correct machine implanted, permanent colour, it may not be possible using a microblading technique. Needless to say, your client isn't going to want to hear this.

Correction is especially difficult with dark colours. You are right to be cautious of making matters worse by going too deep and causing the pigment to migrate into the dermis. If you are thinking of taking this on as your first colour correction job, I would advise you not to. With experience, you'll be able to tell if the pigment will need to be removed or corrected before further work.

It's not all doom and gloom though. If the original brow was microbladed, you can lighten the stroke using an opaque, inorganic pigment such as KremaKroma, which is less dependant on the undertone, but the healed result will still not be 100% predictable. On a lightening correction, you'd normally go two shades lighter than the colour you want the hairstroke to heal. You will still need a series of treatments over several weeks or months to achieve a lasting, more natural result. You may be able to achieve an attractive result using ombre of powder brow techniques, if the brow shape is okay, but that's a judgement call, between you and your client.

Unfortunately, I'm seeing this problem quite frequently as some microblading courses don't include in-depth tuition of colour theory.
I've even thought of running a separate, advanced colour theory and correction class. It would be nice to hear if any bladers would be interested in a course like this.