N shades in Wella Color Touch

[user 153638]

I came across this post on a beauty forum. Would you say it is accurate? I am referring mainly to the parts I have in bold letters, but I’d appreciate your feedback on the rest, if you can make it through to the end :

N and NN shades are used to boost gray coverage and not intended to be used solo but added to at least ONE additional shade. Whatever shade or combination of shades achieves the desired shade outcome. N and NN (intensive neutral) shades have a totally different chemical make up than other shade families, like ash or gold for example. N and NN shades have NO base color, in other words, the best way to think of them is as having a CLEAR base/background. This means they can neither enhance/brighten the EXISTING tone or neutralize UNWANTED tones. The two goals of hair color. They do NOT produce a neutral TONAL result because they CANNOT. There’s no base/background color to do this. That’s why there’s at least one additional shade in a formula to cover gray. For example, if you want a golden brown result and have 25% gray, the N or NN shade would be 25% of the color formula and the golden brown 75% of the color formula. N and NN shades are added in the same percentage as the gray. If used solo, N and NN shades will always produce brass. And even with 10 volume, there can be SOME lift. So the brass you’re seeing is actually your underlying pigment that was exposed by the lifting action of the developer. The N shade has no effect on the SHADE/TONAL result, none whatsoever. When the formula is created correctly, the N or NN shade (NN for resistant gray) would be only up to 50% of the total amount of color, even if hair is 100% pure white.

What I am curious about is whether the 1) the base of N or NN really are clear -as this person is claiming and 2) whether they do leave the hair with more brassiness than other shades would.

Thank you!

 

[ronray]

I came across this post on a beauty forum. Would you say it is accurate? I am referring mainly to the parts I have in bold letters, but I’d appreciate your feedback on the rest, if you can make it through to the end :

N and NN shades are used to boost gray coverage and not intended to be used solo but added to at least ONE additional shade. Whatever shade or combination of shades achieves the desired shade outcome. N and NN (intensive neutral) shades have a totally different chemical make up than other shade families, like ash or gold for example. N and NN shades have NO base color, in other words, the best way to think of them is as having a CLEAR base/background. This means they can neither enhance/brighten the EXISTING tone or neutralize UNWANTED tones. The two goals of hair color. They do NOT produce a neutral TONAL result because they CANNOT. There’s no base/background color to do this. That’s why there’s at least one additional shade in a formula to cover gray. For example, if you want a golden brown result and have 25% gray, the N or NN shade would be 25% of the color formula and the golden brown 75% of the color formula. N and NN shades are added in the same percentage as the gray. If used solo, N and NN shades will always produce brass. And even with 10 volume, there can be SOME lift. So the brass you’re seeing is actually your underlying pigment that was exposed by the lifting action of the developer. The N shade has no effect on the SHADE/TONAL result, none whatsoever. When the formula is created correctly, the N or NN shade (NN for resistant gray) would be only up to 50% of the total amount of color, even if hair is 100% pure white.

What I am curious about is whether the 1) the base of N or NN really are clear -as this person is claiming and 2) whether they do leave the hair with more brassiness than other shades would.

Thank you!

1) no that's not true, I assume by "N" they're refering to the /0 shades and "NN" shades are /00 shades. If my presumption is correct then you can use for example 7/0 + 1.9% and get up to 50% white coverage. As for the /00 those shades don't existing on colour touch in the UK so I can't comment on those, but in koleston we have them and they're used to boost grey coverage but soften a fashion shade in the same formula.

For example 8/00 + 8/34 + 6% would create a more natural and softer looking colour than just 8/34.

For resistant white hair you would use the double bases so 88/0 or 77/0 which gives 100% coverage in koleston. In colour touch your option would be colour touch plus shades which would be 88/07 or 77/03 for example used with the correct 4% developer will give you up to 70% white coverage.

2) It's important to remember that koleston and colour touch are made with a brunette undertone. So compared to the likes of L'Oréal shades a 7/0 will seem warmer in koleston. Because L'Oréal I believe has a blue undertone.
Wella Illumina has a violet undertone.

 

[user 153638]

1) no that's not true, I assume by "N" they're refering to the /0 shades and "NN" shades are /00 shades. If my presumption is correct then you can use for example 7/0 + 1.9% and get up to 50% white coverage. As for the /00 those shades don't existing on colour touch in the UK so I can't comment on those, but in koleston we have them and they're used to boost grey coverage but soften a fashion shade in the same formula.

For example 8/00 + 8/34 + 6% would create a more natural and softer looking colour than just 8/34.

For resistant white hair you would use the double bases so 88/0 or 77/0 which gives 100% coverage in koleston. In colour touch your option would be colour touch plus shades which would be 88/07 or 77/03 for example used with the correct 4% developer will give you up to 70% white coverage.

2) It's important to remember that koleston and colour touch are made with a brunette undertone. So compared to the likes of L'Oréal shades a 7/0 will seem warmer in koleston. Because L'Oréal I believe has a blue undertone.
Wella Illumina has a violet undertone.

Hello,
Thank you so much that is very helpful. Yes by N and NN they were refering to /0 and /00.
I appreciate your response!