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New client and DiaLight Milkshake - what to use?

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satchel

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I've used DiaLight a few times on blonde clients who get root touch ups with bleach and tone. A client loved result and her friend came for consult and wants the same.

She is all over blonde from back to back foils and then another salon with balayage. She liked result of 9.01. I'm confident that will look great on root, but not match previous toners used on length. (My client (her friend) has a short bob so it blended well.)

I'm thinking of using 10.12 on long length and then 9.01 on root area. Thinking 9.01 will be too dark on lengths and not blend. Or on lengths could do half 9.01 and half clear.

There are some small brassy areas through length and in time she wants those balayaged, but now just root touch up and toner.

Thank you and thank you for all of DiaLight help x. It's amazing how clients notice the difference and even their friends.
 

Nearlyme

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I would just use 901 with clear and 9 developer rather then the usual six used for toning.
You could always do a Paul Mitchell shampoo 3 first to lift out residual toner

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adamlea87

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You could apply the 9.01 to roots and then add the clear or 10.12 into the remaining colour to dilute it..

10.12 is very nice. Even when I use 9.01 I usually add some 9.02/violet to soften it.

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satchel

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Thank you. I have the 9 developer. I can do that. I'm glad now I bought all three developers. Though I know I won't use the 15 for the toners. Still new to line, but now feel OK adding at least clear.

I'll look into this shampoo x.

I would just use 901 with clear and 9 developer rather then the usual six used for toning.
You could always do a Paul Mitchell shampoo 3 first to lift out residual toner

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satchel

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I've only tried 10.12 once and it was lovely. There is a steely ash to the 9.01 that I just love. It deposits ash well on the root and client likes how it grows out before next root appointment.

For lengths I will def. add clear and developer 9 no matter which one I choose.

Thank you for your help x. I want it to blend well and I think it will.



You could apply the 9.01 to roots and then add the clear or 10.12 into the remaining colour to dilute it..

10.12 is very nice. Even when I use 9.01 I usually add some 9.02/violet to soften it.

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adamlea87

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Hey Satchel, there is one instance where you might use the 15vol for toning, and that is with the red & copper shades, for maximum deposit. Higher volume = more/faster deposit of colour.

Sounds like you are getting on well with dialight though :)

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Nearlyme

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Hey Satchel, there is one instance where you might use the 15vol for toning, and that is with the red & copper shades, for maximum deposit. Higher volume = more/faster deposit of colour.

Sounds like you are getting on well with dialight though :)

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I was taught to use a lower percentage to deposit more tone. That if you were fearing a grab you should up to a 9 or 15

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satchel

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Ok, thank you. So far I've only stocked milkshakes. Once I feel more confident line more I can stock reds and coppers :)

Hey Satchel, there is one instance where you might use the 15vol for toning, and that is with the red & copper shades, for maximum deposit. Higher volume = more/faster deposit of colour.

Sounds like you are getting on well with dialight though :)

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satchel

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Same. But then again I've actually never used a volume 15 until I saw it in this range. But would seem that it would obviously lift a bit.

I was taught to use a lower percentage to deposit more tone. That if you were fearing a grab you should up to a 9 or 15

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adamlea87

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Hi hope this should help with the developer choice. Dialight is acidic/ deposit only, Diarichesse is alkaline/ lift+tone.

Dialight:


Diarichesse:


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satchel

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Thank you very much!!! x (I haven't worked with Diarichesse interesting with that one the 15 can lift a level or so.) So it's the Diarichesse you use on the reds and coppers with 15?
 

ColourGirly

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This always confuses me, are these still classed as Demi or quasi? If diarichesse lifts and is alkaline, then it is permanently changing the hair structure so is therefor is a permanent colour not a quasi?

Adam do you know if it's ammonia free? If it is how does it lift - MEA?
 

adamlea87

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@satchel using 15vol with dialight reds will just deposit more tone, so its more of a little trick rather than rule :p

Using 15 vol with the diarichesse reds is very good on virgin hair, since you get a more vibrant colour. Not only will it deposit more, but it can slightly shift the natural so that you can see the tone more. For example if you would normally put a level 5 red demi on to virgin level 5 hair, the result would be a more subtle red-brown. By using 15 and just slightly lifting the natural brown, you are able to see more of the red.

@ColourGirly They are both classed as a demi/quasi, and they both use MEA as the alkaline agent, it's just that dialight contains so little that when mixed with the developer falls into an acidic pH. Because of this it is used more for toning/refreshing when the cuticle is already open.

The diarichesse is the more alkaline demi, so it is better on virgin hair, covering white hair etc. The 15 vol is more for slighly shifting the natural base, so it lifts "up to 1.5 levels" but that would depend on the hair type. L'Oreal US even recommends using up to 20vol with the clear shade for base breaking. In fact I think that if you mix any alkaline demi with a higher developer you will create lift, maybe just not as strong as permanent colour.

I think nowadays the lines between permanent and demi-permanent are blurred. They both use oxidation dyes just with varing pH and oxidant strengths. Especially now when there are opaque demis that are great for coving white hair and then permanent colours that are more transluscent! Haha I'm getting of topic now. I'm enjoying your posts though girly.


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ColourGirly

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Thanks for that Adam!

I just find it interesting that client perception of ask for a semi/Demi in a salon is actually not at all what they think if stylist follow the labeling on some of these products lol!

I work with ammonia free Demis that don't lift so was curious about the performance of diarichesse.
 

adamlea87

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Thanks for that Adam!

I just find it interesting that client perception of ask for a semi/Demi in a salon is actually not at all what they think if stylist follow the labeling on some of these products lol!

I work with ammonia free Demis that don't lift so was curious about the performance of diarichesse.
Totally agree about clients perception, what is the demi like that you are using, and what developers do you use?


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ColourGirly

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Great because they behave like demis, if I want stronger I use tint and 3/6%.

I use goldwell so they have a 2% for full app, colour refresh and toning, 4% is for 75% white cover and lowlighting and then 1% is used for express toners which work in 5mins.
 

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