New client colouring dilema

[blutopaz]

hi guys,

why is it its never a problem to work out other peoples colouring quandrys but never ur own!! lol

its going to be long but please hang in there and read it fully, i really need the input...trying to work out whats the best way to get my new client back to A. an acceptable colour and B. closer to her natural with highlights.....sounds simple i know but.......

firstly she has at least a good inch of her natural hair colour, which is about an 8/9 base .....lots of gold but very ashy to. nothing u can really compare to on a shade chart. the closest i could liken it would be a 9.13 in the rusk shade chart...this isnt an excact but its the closest in one shade.

the problem is the person who done it last has highlighted so heavily there is no natural colour left within the coloured part, it looks more like a a full head retouch that needs doing.....and within the heavily highlighted hair is orangegy tones thrown in for good measure but only in patches! it really looks like a bleach job that has been overprocessed in some parts and underprossed on others, although she didnt think she'd had bleach.

ideally i want to break it up with foils rather then doin a whole head colour correction then keeping some highlights, so how would u do this?

im not a user of highlifts but am thinking of using a SL00N this time instead of a bleach, which is a neutrel superlightner, if i use that do i run the risk of unwanted tones from the natural??

and then dilema two, the lowlighting colour do i go for a pre pig yellow mousse with a natural base of a 7.000/8.000 (slighter darker then wanted for coverage and porosity) or would the 9.13 be a possiblity? iv not used this shade and not sure what it would throw up if put straight onto blonde hair.

and also what ratios would u foil to? im thinking one hi/light to one lowlight to break it up??

i have hair samples to figure out the lowlighting colour, so i will try it all but i just would like ur opinions...thanks for ur help guys

 

[liana kay]

with wella colours you can use /7 to go over bleach to low light its really great ,but ive only used the 7/8/9 lines because i was worried about grab . Personally what i would probably do is a mix of a few h/l bleach hi lites and then a tint of 8/7 or a semi of 9 7 ( both will give good but different effects ) . if youve only got the option of hi /lo lights id probably go with the bleach to get rid of any uneven tone and then a lowlight about a warm 8 to cover those ends and allow for fade . if you wanted to do 9/13 that would proberby work all over , but i would really worry about the ash grabbing on the ends let us know how you get on

 

[liana kay]

oh ,sorry , be careful if you are using hi -lift because it can swell , pretty obvious ,but then if you dont use it you may have never noticed it

 

[blutopaz]

thanks liana, will def let u know what happens saturday, and i know that it will be a thousand times better once im done, even if its not quite to her ideal yet but she even she said anythings better then how it is now.

iv not patch tested her so will have to be foiled through out, i think iv sided with bleaching to even it out to, get the blonde up to a clean shade then next time i can use a high lift if needed,

my thoughts on the 9.13 were exactly that, the ash grabbing to much and being a different tone on the roots, at least if i do the plain base shades it will be pretty even through out, its a shame her natural colour is so arkward or i would of foiled the top and coloured the rest back in one go,

im goin to think out loud with this bit lol but on the lo lights do u think it would look odd to only colour the previously coloured hair so she keeps her natural root colour still?? i dont think this would be to much of an issue on the underneath but im thinking it may look odd on the parting....only a thought, nice to bounce off ideas with everyone

 

[scottydolly]

i wouldnt only colour the lenghts it wont be an exact match especially on the parting, as long as the base shade is the same as her natural colour and u are using 6 percent it will only deposit tone on the roots but also depth and shade on the lengths, which in turn will help blend the whole shibang together. . it is very difficult to advise without seeing, but if your not 100 percent sure i wud go ewith the all over foiling rather than risk an all over colour and foils. x

 

[blutopaz]

yes thats what i thought but it made me think as she wants her natural and highlights, and already having a nice regrowth was looking at saving that bit for her but i know that if i do the whole length it will blend perfectly and by the time its grown out another couple of months that would have faded and blended to her natural.....thanks for ur help guys....u put it in perspective for me )

 

[blutopaz]

hi guys, done my client today, turned out beautifully, done bleach hi lites taken through where needed and low lighted everyother one with 1/2 7.000 and 1/2 8.000 over gold mousse, toned it lovely, then sorted out her badly, severly stepped, cut and transformed her hair disaster back to beautiful locks again, i love it when that happens!! thanks for the support guys