Newly trained tech, problems with Shellac

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Bee1

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2018
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Canterbury
Hi, I am wondering if anyone is able to help me. I have recently trained with Sweet Squared, which was amazing and I really enjoyed it! I qualified just under two weeks ago and I have done about 4 manicures now and one for myself. Three of them have had problems (and to be honest if I was to pick there is slight lifting on the free edge of my index finger and I only did my nails 4 days ago!) The worst issue I have had was I completed a shellac manicure on Wednesday evening and by the morning three of her nails had started to peel!! I took my time doing all the correct prep, then thin base coat, thin colour coats, slightly thicker top coat and sealing the free edge at each stage. I really don’t know where I have gone wrong. I have even checked back in my booklet that I have done the pep correctly.

I obviously removed and repaired the three nails that peeled. But just three days later more of her nails have started to peel (not the ones I repaired)

This isn’t just a one off as two of my other clients have had the same issue. One with just her right hand, left hand was still perfect and the other client had peeling three days after on a couple of nails.

I have been in touch with my sweet squared educator who is lovely. She said it’s just a case of doing more manicures and learning that way. Which I agree with, practice makes perfect. But my confidence is so low now, and there is no way I can charge people for a service that may not even last 24hours. And obviously its loosing me money as these products are expensive (especially when starting out) I am using the CND shellac system as a whole. Everything from the CND nail file to the official LED lamp. All purchased from Sweet Squared, so 100% genuine.

Before I trained, I would do my own nails as well as my sisters. I used a different, non professional gel polish brand, and that would always last at least a week and never had any problems with. So I can’t work out why I am getting these problems with a decent professional reputable brand?

Please if anyone can advise or help me I would be very grateful. I just want to do the best job I can for my clients.
 
Hi, I just wanted to say that I’m in the same boat I’ve recently qualified with sweet squared on the shellac course and it’s happens to me a few times, I’m also now worried about charging for something that’s not 100% but obviously don’t want to loose money either. It does knock your confidence doesn’t it when it doesn’t last but you do everything by the book. I’m guessing we just need to practice practice practice. Sorry not very helpful but just wanted to let you know you’re not alone
 
Hi, I just wanted to say that I’m in the same boat I’ve recently qualified with sweet squared on the shellac course and it’s happens to me a few times, I’m also now worried about charging for something that’s not 100% but obviously don’t want to loose money either. It does knock your confidence doesn’t it when it doesn’t last but you do everything by the book. I’m guessing we just need to practice practice practice. Sorry not very helpful but just wanted to let you know you’re not alone
Thank you so much for replying. It’s nice to know it’s not just me, but at the same time not nice to know you are having problems as well. I wonder where we are going wrong? What top coat are you using? I am using the express 5. (The one that was given in my kit) I wondered about buying the normal top coat and the duraforce one. But having said that, I don’t think it’s the top coat causing problems as express 5 should still last two weeks.

May I ask, when clients come back to you do you give a refund or just redo their nails?
 
Thank you so much for replying. It’s nice to know it’s not just me, but at the same time not nice to know you are having problems as well. I wonder where we are going wrong? What top coat are you using? I am using the express 5. (The one that was given in my kit) I wondered about buying the normal top coat and the duraforce one. But having said that, I don’t think it’s the top coat causing problems as express 5 should still last two weeks.

May I ask, when clients come back to you do you give a refund or just redo their nails?
Yes it’s hard to know what the issue is that’s why I’m guessing it will just come with practice hopefully! I’ve just ordered the original and duraforce top coats to try as I’ve been using xpress 5 aswell. At the moment I’ve just been re doing any that are chipping, luckily I’ve had clients that know me already but it’s still disheartening. I will give the new top coats a go and see how they get on.
 
What timings are you doing for your curing? Are you using the correct lamp for shellac? I use shellac at work and don’t have problems with lifting unless the client has been hard on their hands
 
Sorry to hear your having problems. It’s never easy starting out and it’s a big confidence killer, but don’t give up. There is always hard moments to begin with and then the aha moments set in and your confidence grows.

There are many things that can break down a service and it’s difficult the first few times when it’s not working out, but seems like you have most of your boxes checked on how you perform the service. The only thing I can do is give you a few pointers that I’ve learned over the years and hope some might help or at least guide some.

Like Scrubadub mention. Have you doubled checked your curing times are correct? An unbalanced cure time or over curing can throw a service into breakdown. The different buttons on the LED light and UV light needs to be followed religiously and if misused can cause problems. They are designed to cure each product perfectly. An example of mistakes are curing the base coat on another button or more than once. Also if you hit the B instead of S it can unbalance your cure. The only time to cure a layer more than once I find is with the second layer on very dark solid tones (but if your application is thin it should not be needed.) also make sure to always cure all the nails at once, don’t pop the hand back in the light for one nail. That will give one nail accurate curing and the rest will over cure. It’s a fine balance but the worst is always messing with the base layer, first color coat and top coat. You will learn to manipulate the second color coat and additional layers with nail art as you advance.

I see you are sealing the free edge on each layer which is correct, but are you extra careful not to use to much product? When you seal the edge it needs to be so thin it’s almost not visible. The smallest build up at the free edge will lift. This is something you will master by experience.

Also probably a stupid question, but I will always ask if you touched you file to the free edge at all after the Shellac has been applied or have you checked if the client has done any small filing at home? Lots of clients do put a touch of a file to the free edge and break the seal. This can be the tiniest scratch but will open up for lifting.

Make sure to scrub fresh only on hand at the time and apply base and cure directly when you see the surface dries completely. Doing this will ensure full decontamination and also nothing that is in the nail will penetrate thru. Watch your clients also, if they touch their face, their phone, their hair or anything it can deliver contamination. Also use scrub fresh under the free edge to ensure your seal will adhere.

How well do you remove your cuticle away, any residue around the nail or under will contaminate your application. Remember it needs to be removed with soap and water. I find some clients will requires dry pep and I skip the cuticle away if the cuticles are easy to manage. If you feel you do need to use cuticle away you might have a nail that’s absorbed a lot of water and try to let it dry down more or make sure it’s not still moist. (You can tell if a nail is full of water if the scrub fresh takes time to dry chalky. It should dry down in an instant)

Lastly, give yourself a break, your new and your learning. You shouldn’t be so hard on yourself and hopefully your not charging full price yet for your service so you can have time to learn before you raise your prices to a more average level.

Hope some of this might help and remember to always keep in touch with your educators or distributor. We are all here to help so never feel afraid to ask even the most “stupidest” questions.

Good luck [emoji4]
 
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What timings are you doing for your curing? Are you using the correct lamp for shellac? I use shellac at work and don’t have problems with lifting unless the client has been hard on their hands
Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes I am using the official CND LED lamp. So I use preset button 1 (which I think is five seconds) for base coat, preset button 2s (which I think is one minute) for colour coat, and preset button 3 (which I think is two minutes) for the top coat. This lamp was purchased from Sweet Squared just over two weeks ago.
 
What timings are you doing for your curing? Are you using the correct lamp for shellac? I use shellac at work and don’t have problems with lifting unless the client has been hard on their hands
Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes I am using the official CND LED lamp. So I use preset button 1 (which I think is five seconds) for base coat, preset button 2s (which I think is one minute) for colour coat, and preset button 3 (which I think is two minutes) for the top coat. This lamp was purchased from Sweet Squared just over two weeks ago.
 
Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes I am using the official CND LED lamp. So I use preset button 1 (which I think is five seconds) for base coat, preset button 2s (which I think is one minute) for colour coat, and preset button 3 (which I think is two minutes) for the top coat. This lamp was purchased from Sweet Squared just over two weeks ago.

Ok that’s good! Gel nails are hard at first, thenailbusiness posted a really good reply above about capping etc! I would give that one a read :) you will get it down, don’t give yourself a hard time
 
I cannot thank you enough for your reply. It is really helpful.

I’m sure my curing times are correct as I have looked at the lamp to ensure I press the right button whilst performing the manicure.

What you have said about the cuticle away was helpful. I have a spray bottle with water and tiny bit of soap in and I spray that on to a cotton pad and clean the nails. Is this a good enough clean to remove the cuticle away?

Also when I have done the scrub fresh I think I have done both hands at once. So that is something for me to change.

The sealing of the free edge. This is what I take ages over! I seal the free edge first before going in with the shellac on the nail plate. I wonder if I am applying this too thick then. Another thing for me to watch and change. Would you seal the free edge first or after the shellac is on the nail plate? I will have to ask my client if she filed at all. I definitely didn’t after shellac was applied.

My prices are very low at the moment because I am so new to it all and I take a long time (and to be honest I just want a lot of people to practice on!) The clients have been understanding but I’m sure they have lost confidence in me just as much as I have in myself. I know it will come with time and practice and I must stay positive!!
 
It should be enough removing cuticle away like you are doing. I just remember myself having problems not cleaning it off well enough so I always spay probably more water to clean it off than I need to now

So, I think I have a little tip for you from your reply. I see you seal your edge first? On all nails? I personally find that this is when it gets goopy for me. Always work on hand and seal and apply to the nail plate as you go. Gels have a tendency to gather or separate if it’s not applied as a full coat for each nail. This is just how I find working with makes more sense. Also there is a way to seal the edge very thinly by reversing the brush and pushing towards you to seal. I found this saved me from over sealing and building up to much on the edge. Especially for shorter nails.

The FingerNailFixer on YouTube has great videos that show you some tips and trick that I really love and has helped me so much. This is her video on sealing shorter nails :



Clients will never loose confidence in you as long as you make it clear to them that you are new at this and you need to practice. And also you let them come back and fix the problem and that should be enough to show you really care about doing a good job. If one or two doesn’t have patience for it, then tuff. I lost clients when I came back to the salon after years of working on full price even because we where sometimes not a good fit or I simply could not make them happy with the result (some expect magic from you when it comes to Shellac, it’s still just a color coat and not an enhancement ) so I’ve been burned booth when I was new and later in my career. But I try the best I can and anything to make them happy, but if their not or I know Ive gone above and beyond and still not satisfied I need to do a professional “breakup” and suggest they go to someone else that could make them happy. ( and they usually come back with a changed attitude , because I know I’m good [emoji6])

So clients will come and go, but never loose your confidence completely. We all have these days, but good work and passion will see you thru [emoji4]
 
Thank you for that video. That was very useful. I tend to scrub fresh both hands then work on one nail at a time. I start by sealing the edge but using a different technique to the one in the video. So I think I need to scrub fresh one hand at a time and use a better technique, like the one in the video, to seal the free edge.

I do find on some of the colours the nail plate can still be slightly visible even after two coats. Would three coats ever be advised? I haven’t tried anyone with three coats yet. But would it just be too many layers?
 
Thank you for that video. That was very useful. I tend to scrub fresh both hands then work on one nail at a time. I start by sealing the edge but using a different technique to the one in the video. So I think I need to scrub fresh one hand at a time and use a better technique, like the one in the video, to seal the free edge.

I do find on some of the colours the nail plate can still be slightly visible even after two coats. Would three coats ever be advised? I haven’t tried anyone with three coats yet. But would it just be too many layers?

I have a few colours I do three thin layers on. What I then do is cure an extra minute on the last color layer before top coat to make sure they are all cured (this is very individual and you need to see how it will work) I saw you use Express 5 topcoat. This in my opinion is the weakest top coat and I usually only use it with pigments and over art work if I need a thin layer. The original top coat is the best for anything in my opinion. I haven’t tried Duraforce yet.

Sometimes I layer colors that are more see thru with a cream layer underneath that match the tone I want to achieve. It keeps it thin and color true. Also makes for great new colors sometimes :)
 
If you're doing the free edge first, that may be the problem. I always apply the color over the nail first and then lightly brush along the free edge with very little polish on the brush. You shouldn't see the polish build up on the free edge. Too much will get caught and cause the seal to break.
 
If you're doing the free edge first, that may be the problem. I always apply the color over the nail first and then lightly brush along the free edge with very little polish on the brush. You shouldn't see the polish build up on the free edge. Too much will get caught and cause the seal to break.
Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes, I am doing the free edge first. I have wondered why the free edge is done first to be honest. That’s how the trainer taught me, so that’s what I have done. I wonder what other techs do? Should I not be doing it first? Or is it that it doesn’t matter as long as only a very thin layer is applied?
 
Hi, I am wondering if anyone is able to help me. I have recently trained with Sweet Squared, which was amazing and I really enjoyed it! I qualified just under two weeks ago and I have done about 4 manicures now and one for myself. Three of them have had problems (and to be honest if I was to pick there is slight lifting on the free edge of my index finger and I only did my nails 4 days ago!) The worst issue I have had was I completed a shellac manicure on Wednesday evening and by the morning three of her nails had started to peel!! I took my time doing all the correct prep, then thin base coat, thin colour coats, slightly thicker top coat and sealing the free edge at each stage. I really don’t know where I have gone wrong. I have even checked back in my booklet that I have done the pep correctly.

I obviously removed and repaired the three nails that peeled. But just three days later more of her nails have started to peel (not the ones I repaired)

This isn’t just a one off as two of my other clients have had the same issue. One with just her right hand, left hand was still perfect and the other client had peeling three days after on a couple of nails.

I have been in touch with my sweet squared educator who is lovely. She said it’s just a case of doing more manicures and learning that way. Which I agree with, practice makes perfect. But my confidence is so low now, and there is no way I can charge people for a service that may not even last 24hours. And obviously its loosing me money as these products are expensive (especially when starting out) I am using the CND shellac system as a whole. Everything from the CND nail file to the official LED lamp. All purchased from Sweet Squared, so 100% genuine.

Before I trained, I would do my own nails as well as my sisters. I used a different, non professional gel polish brand, and that would always last at least a week and never had any problems with. So I can’t work out why I am getting these problems with a decent professional reputable brand?

Please if anyone can advise or help me I would be very grateful. I just want to do the best job I can for my clients.

Hi

I am new to the forum and just looking into courses. Sorry to hear you’ve had a tough start but I agree with the others that practice makes perfect and don’t be disheartened. I wonder if you would reccomend sweet squared? I joined the site looking for a course for gel and acrylic, to start out as a hobby but with a view to do something that is accredited so I can grow a business as my skills and reputation grows. I am in the north east area.

Thank you
 
Hi, I am wondering if anyone is able to help me. I have recently trained with Sweet Squared, which was amazing and I really enjoyed it! I qualified just under two weeks ago and I have done about 4 manicures now and one for myself. Three of them have had problems (and to be honest if I was to pick there is slight lifting on the free edge of my index finger and I only did my nails 4 days ago!) The worst issue I have had was I completed a shellac manicure on Wednesday evening and by the morning three of her nails had started to peel!! I took my time doing all the correct prep, then thin base coat, thin colour coats, slightly thicker top coat and sealing the free edge at each stage. I really don’t know where I have gone wrong. I have even checked back in my booklet that I have done the pep correctly.

I obviously removed and repaired the three nails that peeled. But just three days later more of her nails have started to peel (not the ones I repaired)

This isn’t just a one off as two of my other clients have had the same issue. One with just her right hand, left hand was still perfect and the other client had peeling three days after on a couple of nails.

I have been in touch with my sweet squared educator who is lovely. She said it’s just a case of doing more manicures and learning that way. Which I agree with, practice makes perfect. But my confidence is so low now, and there is no way I can charge people for a service that may not even last 24hours. And obviously its loosing me money as these products are expensive (especially when starting out) I am using the CND shellac system as a whole. Everything from the CND nail file to the official LED lamp. All purchased from Sweet Squared, so 100% genuine.

Before I trained, I would do my own nails as well as my sisters. I used a different, non professional gel polish brand, and that would always last at least a week and never had any problems with. So I can’t work out why I am getting these problems with a decent professional reputable brand?

Please if anyone can advise or help me I would be very grateful. I just want to do the best job I can for my clients.
Hey I am a fully qualified nail tech and have done the cnd course at sweet squared for the certifie and to be able to have an account with them the training is really good but the only thing I would say that would help with it not lifting is to buff the nail I know they say don’t but this gives it something to grip to things should stop it lifting
 
I haven’t read the replies but if you’re clients nails are lifting, then you’re not washing off the cuticle away properly and certainly not scrubbing th scrub fresh until it squeaks. Get right in all the corners. Watch hand placement in the lamps too and there should be no reason to lift.
 
Thank you so much for replying. It’s nice to know it’s not just me, but at the same time not nice to know you are having problems as well. I wonder where we are going wrong? What top coat are you using? I am using the express 5. (The one that was given in my kit) I wondered about buying the normal top coat and the duraforce one. But having said that, I don’t think it’s the top coat causing problems as express 5 should still last two weeks.

May I ask, when clients come back to you do you give a refund or just redo their nails?[/QUOTE
 
I haven’t read the replies but if you’re clients nails are lifting, then you’re not washing off the cuticle away properly and certainly not scrubbing th scrub fresh until it squeaks. Get right in all the corners. Watch hand placement in the lamps too and there should be no reason to lift.


Yes, I agree with this. I usually get the entire area around the Nail bed cleansed with acetone to dry it out so there is no oily residue left from their nature oils. Any oil or lotion left on the skin around the Nail bed, tends to get into the gel some, and it lifts it off the Nail bed. So clean up cuticles more and really dehydrate that whole area! Good luck!
 

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