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Please help me get rid of this blue

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Hi guys,
So my friend and I ( we are both stylists)decided to have a hair day, I was definitely up for a colour change as I’d been having the same variation of shades in my long bob length hair for too long. As it was already a skillfully done balayage/ombré I decided to stay along these lines with a root melt but mix it up by changing the the tones. We chose to move it from a Wella illumina 6/16 root with peachy coraly ends to wella illumina 6/16 with 10 grams of wella kp 0/66 and tone the rest with a soft grey/lavender. Guy tang toner.
We Did a few various tech]niques with some bleach in foils to Lift out the peachy tone it had and as I’ve gradually been going lighter this year, it lifted\ out quite quickly and cleanly. We then moved onto the root area, applied our illumina and once that was complete, we added the guy tang dusty lavender then I sat under the Climazone for 20 mins.
Amazing, we had a beautiful mulberry root fading into the beautiful pale soft lavender with a grey undertone. Fabulous!
Until the next day when I washed it again to get ready for work. The toner disappeared down the plug hole leaving me with a silvery grey toner which was not as complimentary with the mulberry root nor as great with my skin tone.
So, once home from work I proceeded to retone, always using Olaplex to maintain hair quality and job done again, beautiful. For 5 days, aaagh. What had I started?.
So, I got to thinking how I could maintain this shade without constantly having to retone which would no doubt result in damaged hair eventually.
I bought some more guy tang, set about retoning that night, then after, decided to give it a a bit of an extra boost with equal parts of lavender and violet crazy colour by renbow( I couldn’t decide which one out of the two so chose both)
I was hoping that this way I could add a little every time I could see the colour fading and just do it in the shower on a morning for a top up.
Disaster. The colour went an inky dark denim blue colour! I hated it . Everyone else loved it but it just Wasn’t my bag so today, I redid the roots, 9I find illumina fades so quickly0 and tried a different brand of toner, still a grey lavender but by wella, but, even more disaster, ‍♀♀♀
it’s now a pale turquoisey blue with a minor grey undertone.
I want rid, I really dislike it, so I’m racking my brains for solutions.
I can A, retone with the original guy tang toner and see what that does but I’m very sceptical and think l this blue is here to stay.
B, rebleach, I’m reluctant, my hair is silky soft, relatively fine but enough of it, I know it’s limits and we’re 2/3rds there.
C, and this is the colour theory bit: retone with something light pink. This should technically add to the blue and get me back on the purple track but I have no idea what to use.
Does anyone have any advice pls?
I’m so sorry for the long post. It’s my first one and I thought I’d be as informative as poss.
Thanks In advance for any solutions.
Michaela x
image.jpg
 

ronray

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Hi guys,
So my friend and I ( we are both stylists)decided to have a hair day, I was definitely up for a colour change as I’d been having the same variation of shades in my long bob length hair for too long. As it was already a skillfully done balayage/ombré I decided to stay along these lines with a root melt but mix it up by changing the the tones. We chose to move it from a Wella illumina 6/16 root with peachy coraly ends to wella illumina 6/16 with 10 grams of wella kp 0/66 and tone the rest with a soft grey/lavender. Guy tang toner.
We Did a few various tech]niques with some bleach in foils to Lift out the peachy tone it had and as I’ve gradually been going lighter this year, it lifted\ out quite quickly and cleanly. We then moved onto the root area, applied our illumina and once that was complete, we added the guy tang dusty lavender then I sat under the Climazone for 20 mins.
Amazing, we had a beautiful mulberry root fading into the beautiful pale soft lavender with a grey undertone. Fabulous!
Until the next day when I washed it again to get ready for work. The toner disappeared down the plug hole leaving me with a silvery grey toner which was not as complimentary with the mulberry root nor as great with my skin tone.
So, once home from work I proceeded to retone, always using Olaplex to maintain hair quality and job done again, beautiful. For 5 days, aaagh. What had I started?.
So, I got to thinking how I could maintain this shade without constantly having to retone which would no doubt result in damaged hair eventually.
I bought some more guy tang, set about retoning that night, then after, decided to give it a a bit of an extra boost with equal parts of lavender and violet crazy colour by renbow( I couldn’t decide which one out of the two so chose both)
I was hoping that this way I could add a little every time I could see the colour fading and just do it in the shower on a morning for a top up.
Disaster. The colour went an inky dark denim blue colour! I hated it . Everyone else loved it but it just Wasn’t my bag so today, I redid the roots, 9I find illumina fades so quickly0 and tried a different brand of toner, still a grey lavender but by wella, but, even more disaster, ‍♀♀♀
it’s now a pale turquoisey blue with a minor grey undertone.
I want rid, I really dislike it, so I’m racking my brains for solutions.
I can A, retone with the original guy tang toner and see what that does but I’m very sceptical and think l this blue is here to stay.
B, rebleach, I’m reluctant, my hair is silky soft, relatively fine but enough of it, I know it’s limits and we’re 2/3rds there.
C, and this is the colour theory bit: retone with something light pink. This should technically add to the blue and get me back on the purple track but I have no idea what to use.
Does anyone have any advice pls?
I’m so sorry for the long post. It’s my first one and I thought I’d be as informative as poss.
Thanks In advance for any solutions.
Michaela x View attachment 208670
After putting oxidising colour over the crazy colour I think you'll have difficulty removing it. You would have been better off trying to get rid of the crazy colour first. Unfortunately that green/turquoise is sticking around for a while. There is something you can do and that's use a direct dye remover, one of the ones I know of is (malibu c DDL). Your other option is to use a deep cleansing shampoo but obviously that will be a slower process. Your other option is to use a quasi)/demi permanent colour to deepen it all, the green will fade out over time, but won't become visible again until the quasi starts to fade.
However tempting it may be DO NOT USE BLEACH! If you use bleach or permanent colour it will only make it worse.
 

ronray

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Hi guys,
So my friend and I ( we are both stylists)decided to have a hair day, I was definitely up for a colour change as I’d been having the same variation of shades in my long bob length hair for too long. As it was already a skillfully done balayage/ombré I decided to stay along these lines with a root melt but mix it up by changing the the tones. We chose to move it from a Wella illumina 6/16 root with peachy coraly ends to wella illumina 6/16 with 10 grams of wella kp 0/66 and tone the rest with a soft grey/lavender. Guy tang toner.
We Did a few various tech]niques with some bleach in foils to Lift out the peachy tone it had and as I’ve gradually been going lighter this year, it lifted\ out quite quickly and cleanly. We then moved onto the root area, applied our illumina and once that was complete, we added the guy tang dusty lavender then I sat under the Climazone for 20 mins.
Amazing, we had a beautiful mulberry root fading into the beautiful pale soft lavender with a grey undertone. Fabulous!
Until the next day when I washed it again to get ready for work. The toner disappeared down the plug hole leaving me with a silvery grey toner which was not as complimentary with the mulberry root nor as great with my skin tone.
So, once home from work I proceeded to retone, always using Olaplex to maintain hair quality and job done again, beautiful. For 5 days, aaagh. What had I started?.
So, I got to thinking how I could maintain this shade without constantly having to retone which would no doubt result in damaged hair eventually.
I bought some more guy tang, set about retoning that night, then after, decided to give it a a bit of an extra boost with equal parts of lavender and violet crazy colour by renbow( I couldn’t decide which one out of the two so chose both)
I was hoping that this way I could add a little every time I could see the colour fading and just do it in the shower on a morning for a top up.
Disaster. The colour went an inky dark denim blue colour! I hated it . Everyone else loved it but it just Wasn’t my bag so today, I redid the roots, 9I find illumina fades so quickly0 and tried a different brand of toner, still a grey lavender but by wella, but, even more disaster, ‍♀♀♀
it’s now a pale turquoisey blue with a minor grey undertone.
I want rid, I really dislike it, so I’m racking my brains for solutions.
I can A, retone with the original guy tang toner and see what that does but I’m very sceptical and think l this blue is here to stay.
B, rebleach, I’m reluctant, my hair is silky soft, relatively fine but enough of it, I know it’s limits and we’re 2/3rds there.
C, and this is the colour theory bit: retone with something light pink. This should technically add to the blue and get me back on the purple track but I have no idea what to use.
Does anyone have any advice pls?
I’m so sorry for the long post. It’s my first one and I thought I’d be as informative as poss.
Thanks In advance for any solutions.
Michaela x View attachment 208670
Crazy colour is pure pigment / direct dye, these don't work the same way as regular/oxidative colour. They don't counteract each other like regular colour does. In my experience you just end up with a sludgy coloured mess.
 

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Thanks for that, I know, I had hoped the crazy colour would intensify the lavender tone I’d already achieved with the guy tang colour , almost like using a coloured shampoo or coloured conditioner so I wouldn’t have to use a chemical toner as often. I opted for lavender and violet direct dye as I couldn’t decide when I looked at the shade chart so was surprised when it went the inky blue. I’m kicking myself now for trying to put another toner over the top as I should have known better.

Re ‘Crazy colour is pure pigment / direct dye, these don't work the same way as regular/oxidative colour. They don't counteract each other like regular colour does. In my experience you just end up with a sludgy coloured mess.’

My theory in using a pink crazy colour is not to counteract but to lay on top of the blue hopefully creating a purple because if I mixed a pink direct dye with a blue I’d end up with some shade of purple. I could just apply some to a small patch and see what happens.

I actually have a colour reducer from a new brand that I’ve invested in so I might firstly use the shampoo method for a few days then give the reducer a go.
My only worry there is that I’ve known stylists in the past use them and get great results in lifting stubborn colours but then get disappointing shade results when they recolour over the top. I’d love to know why that may be, is it down to the ingredients in the colour remover? Should the hair be allowed to rest and any residue that may be left in naturally oxidise with air for a couple of weeks before re colouring. I’ve seem a stylist successfully lift really dense built up colour from a 5 to an 8, to then put on an 8 with a cool tone to neutralise the warmth that’s come out with the lift and the cool tone has then grabbed and taken the hair back dark again.
I don’t want to have to dark hair but am prepared to settle on an 8 if I can just deposit a more purple tone?
 

Haircutz

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I’ve seem a stylist successfully lift really dense built up colour from a 5 to an 8, to then put on an 8 with a cool tone to neutralise the warmth that’s come out with the lift and the cool tone has then grabbed and taken the hair back dark again.
Are you sure you’re a stylist? Your colour theory is way off. ;)

A colour reducer won’t work on a direct dye.
It’s got nothing to do with the colour ‘being stubborn’. Colour doesn’t have opinions, lol.

A direct dye has a total different molecular structure to oxidative dye and sits on the outside of the cuticle layer. As @ronray says, if you use an odixdative colour inc. bleach afterwards, it can affect the direct dye colour. If previous colouring/bleaching has damaged the cuticle layer, the direct dye can effectively stain the hair and shifting it will be a matter of trying to fade the stain enough to colour over it.
Ordinarily, you need a special direct dye remover to remove fresh direct dye colour, but it’s probably not going to do much now.

An oxidative colour sits inside the cortex.
Colour reducers only work on oxidative colour and you need to use a tint 2 levels lighter afterwards.
The cool tone didn’t ‘grab’. It simply re-oxidised the remaining ORIGINAL colour molecules still trapped in the cortex.
 

Haircutz

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Hair colouring is similar to decorating at home in that you wouldn’t use a gloss paint intended for woodwork, on your ceiling. It will cover the ceiling with colour but it’s not the best choice for that job. It’s a different product to emulsion and requires different preparation etc.

Hair colouring and removal is not just about understanding warm and cool tones and the lightening curve but also about understanding the types of products you are using, and which ones to choose for a specific job.

This thread will help explain a bit more about how oxidative colour works.

https://www.salongeek.com/threads/colour-reducers-versus-colour-strippers.315126/
 

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Are you sure you’re a stylist? Your colour theory is way off. ;)
Gosh, and you’re a moderator? I’m sure I read something about site etiquette before posting.
That’s really quite rude.
When using the word ‘stubborn’ which is an adjective and can be used in many examples not just as a description of ‘opinion’, I’m referring to a colour that has possibly been overlapped constantly, creating a build up, and proving difficult to shift.
What a shame that you felt the need to ridicule someone who obviously doesn’t have the same colour correcting experience as you , so therefore has come to this site to ask advice. Don’t I feel like an idiot.

However, in answer to your question,yes, I am a hairdresser, with a good few years under my belt but I am out of touch with new productsand have therefore made a mistake which is why I’ve come on here asking said advice.

I may have misunderstood the advice from RonRay about using a Direct dye remover and thought he meant colour reducer, that’s my bad, and I’ve made it clear that I’ve only see other stylists use these as they are a relatively new product in comparison to when I trained.


The cool tone didn’t ‘grab’. It simply re-oxidised the remaining ORIGINAL colour molecules still trapped in the cortex.
Now you’ve explained about the 8/1 it’s makes total sense. I mistakenly thought that it was the /1 that was possibly giving a darker appearance to the hair as I was taught that cooler tones can Make the hair look darker because they have more depth or intensity to them. But it does make sense that there is some old colour left in the cortex and the new tint applied over the top will oxidise that remaining colour. I did ask the question about my own hair when I thought about using a colour reducer,

Should the hair be allowed to rest and any residue that may be left in naturally oxidise with air for a couple of weeks before re colouring.
My theory in using a pink crazy colour is not to counteract but to lay on top of the blue hopefully creating a purple because if I mixed a pink direct dye with a blue I’d end up with some shade of purple. I could just apply some to a small patch and see what happens.
So here, I am thinking along the line of a direct dye, not an oxidising colour. More like if you mixed poster paints.
My hair is currently blue, if I try a pink crazy colour will it lay over the blue ( I do understand that they work by staining not entering into the hair cortex) and give me more of a purple resulting colour? My line of thought process here is that the hair iwas originally bleached , therefore I’ve removed pigment from the hair. The resulting blue in/on the hair is translucent like a stained glass window. I’m not trying to counteract the colour . I’m trying to layer but have no idea wether this will work, it’s only a thought of could this work? I’m unsure at this point if it is still a stain, has some entered into the cortex because I’ve used an oxidising toner over the top of the first batch of direct dye? Or is it just a result of the oxidising toner having messed with original direct dye tone that was selected.
In the original post,it explains I didn’t use the direct dye until ‘after’ the second toner, and it still went blue, but more inky than turquoise. And this could be because I didn’t shampoo the toner out, just rinsed it, so there could have been some remnants of peroxide left in the hair starting to throw the direct dye off quite quickly.

I can appreciate I’ve thrown all sorts of ideas into the pot and for someone who is experienced in today’s colour correcting, it’s easy to look at my ideas and raise your eyebrows and ask, is this person for real, but it’s a genuine enquiry, I’m thinnkng out loud based on what I’ve learnt back in the day.
My original post was titled rushed job, regretful choices or something like that , I did know not to put bleach over it, so haven’t, yet, but didn’t consider that a low level 3% peroxide toner would of course alter the direct dye, then oxidise , leaving me with this awful colour.
 

ronray

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Thanks for that, I know, I had hoped the crazy colour would intensify the lavender tone I’d already achieved with the guy tang colour , almost like using a coloured shampoo or coloured conditioner so I wouldn’t have to use a chemical toner as often. I opted for lavender and violet direct dye as I couldn’t decide when I looked at the shade chart so was surprised when it went the inky blue. I’m kicking myself now for trying to put another toner over the top as I should have known better.

Re ‘Crazy colour is pure pigment / direct dye, these don't work the same way as regular/oxidative colour. They don't counteract each other like regular colour does. In my experience you just end up with a sludgy coloured mess.’

My theory in using a pink crazy colour is not to counteract but to lay on top of the blue hopefully creating a purple because if I mixed a pink direct dye with a blue I’d end up with some shade of purple. I could just apply some to a small patch and see what happens.

I actually have a colour reducer from a new brand that I’ve invested in so I might firstly use the shampoo method for a few days then give the reducer a go.
My only worry there is that I’ve known stylists in the past use them and get great results in lifting stubborn colours but then get disappointing shade results when they recolour over the top. I’d love to know why that may be, is it down to the ingredients in the colour remover? Should the hair be allowed to rest and any residue that may be left in naturally oxidise with air for a couple of weeks before re colouring. I’ve seem a stylist successfully lift really dense built up colour from a 5 to an 8, to then put on an 8 with a cool tone to neutralise the warmth that’s come out with the lift and the cool tone has then grabbed and taken the hair back dark again.
I don’t want to have to dark hair but am prepared to settle on an 8 if I can just deposit a more purple tone?
You could try the pink one, but try it on a small section first. I'm not sure if it'll work, but I see where you're going with the theory, but it didn't work for me. But it's worth a try.
A colour reducer will remove your illumina colour, but it won't take out the crazy colour. A colour reducer only works on oxidative colour the same as bleach :/
 

ronray

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If you have cleansing shampoo or chelating shampoo I'd use that I've the next few days and order yourself a malibu c DDL. A direct dye lifter works differently to a hair colour remover. Your best option is to try and fade it before you apply anything else.
 

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f you have cleansing shampoo or chelating shampoo I'd use that I've the next few days and order yourself a malibu c DDL. A direct dye lifter works differently to a hair colour remover. Your best option is to try and fade it before you apply anything else.

Thank you so much Ronray. You’ve been really helpful and patient.
 

Colour_Freak_91

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Hi, I honestly do this type of correction a lot and if I were you, to simplify this problem, I would try Joico Colour Erasor. It gets pretty much all alternative hair colours out.
Then I’d wait a good solid week and get a permenant colour remover to remove the rest.
The best in the biz is Pravana’s colour extractor. (Amazon,eBay.)
Then you’ll need to figure out what level you’ve ended up at after that and colour on that level.
Under no circumstances use bleach, as it won’t fix it and use a deep bond repair conditioner like Schwarzkopf Bond Enforcing Conditioning Treatment.
Good Luck! :)
 

Colour_Freak_91

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PS, ypu may need to wait longer than a week after the colour eraser, judge it based on what your individual hair can take and always swatch test everything!!
 

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Hi, I honestly do this type of correction a lot and if I were you, to simplify this problem, I would try Joico Colour Erasor. It gets pretty much all alternative hair colours out.
Then I’d wait a good solid week and get a permenant colour remover to remove the rest.
The best in the biz is Pravana’s colour extractor. (Amazon,eBay.)
Then you’ll need to figure out what level you’ve ended up at after that and colour on that level.
Under no circumstances use bleach, as it won’t fix it and use a deep bond repair conditioner like Schwarzkopf Bond Enforcing Conditioning Treatment.
Good Luck! :)
Thanks so much, I ended up using the Renbow ‘back to base’ DDL with 3% and got it to a really delicate pastel mint shade which I let settle for just over a week. I toned it at the weekend using Wellas Illumina opal essence ‘silver mauve’ but added an inch of 0/66 mix tone as I was struggling to get my hair to absorb the violet from any of the toners.it’s so porous now it’s got to that stage where it predominantly absorbs the ash from any colour, anyway, BINGO ! It’s now at the gorgeous dusty lavender shade that I wanted! phew, after all that. Thanks very much for your advice. I did try to order the joico one but it was out of stock so ended up with the Renbow one instead.
Thank goodness for Olaplex and that I’ve got extra length to play with atm, haircut booked next week. x
 

Colour_Freak_91

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Oh don’t worry! Renbow works well too! :)
I only recommended Joico because I use their products! But any DDL will do it. ;)
You’re welcome! I’m glad I could help! I must admit I was a bit concerned about the oxidising toner (hence why I recommended Pravana aswell) but I think you’ve combatted it very thoughtfully and most importantly got it the colour you wanted!:cool:
Definitely! What on earth would we do without it? Fashion colours are literally only possible on a decent timeframe because of ‘plex’ products... I use Fibreplex and Bond repairing conditioner when the hair is having issues as I’m more familiar with Schwarzkopf than I am Wella. (I trained in Redken but no Redken in the UK)
:rolleyes:
 

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