Problem with Bio Sculpture Gel Extensions Cracking

[KristaBurgess]

Hello,

Im having a problem with my application of Bio Sculpture Extensions. Many of my clients report cracking down the middle of the tip and the corners will crack off as well. I dont however get any reports of lifting.

What I do is prepare the nail, try and find a suitable sized tip. I glue the tip on with Bio Sculpture Nail Glue, then cut down, file and blend where neccessary. After I apply a layer of clear gel and two coats of colour to finish off.

Can anyone suggest why this is happening and what I need to do to minimalize breaking/cracking etc.

Also I wonder what is the general opinion on the best gel system to use for extensions? Can a lasting result be achieved with Bio Sculpture?

Thanks

 

[Envy]

Hello,

Many of my clients report cracking down the middle of the tip and the corners will crack off as well. I dont however get any reports of lifting.

What I do is prepare the nail, try and find a suitable sized tip. I glue the tip on with Bio Sculpture Nail Glue, then cut down, file and blend where neccessary. After I apply a layer of clear gel and two coats of colour to finish off.

Can anyone suggest why this is happening and what I need to do to minimalize breaking/cracking etc.

Also I wonder what is the general opinion on the best gel system to use for extensions? Can a lasting result be achieved with Bio Sculpture?

Thanks

Well firstly, no lifting is good news! That means your prep and application is good.

Tips cracking down the middle is a sign they are under undue stress. Most likely (almost always) it means the tip was too small for the nail applied to and has been 'flattened' to fit ... Tips need to have the same 'c' curve as the nail they are being applied to - this is why many suppliers have several 'shapes' of tip - you really need to have the right shape and then the right size for each type of nail. If the nail is very flat, you may have to go for a larger tip and then file the side walls in to reduce it's width..

If the corners of the tip are breaking off this could be a couple of things (depending on what you call the corner..)

1) Tip at the extension edge (furtherest from the nail plate) then the product over the top of the tip is not offering enough strength, or the nails are too square for the client.

2) Tip cracking at the seam (where the 'ear' is stuck to the nail plate) then it is most likely the tip is not blended thin enough and the overlay is therefore thin and not offering enough strength. Remember, tips offer no strength, just a nice platform for application

As far as strength of gels go. the rule of thumb in my opinion is:
*Soft, soakable gels
Great for natural nail overlays, additional strength and good looks for those clients who can manage with natural length. Not so hot for extensions as they are more prone to break under their own flexability.
*Hard, non soakable gels
Can be used like a liquid & powder for strength and extension, without the fuss of mix ratio and application

There are many gel systems out there, my preference is for BRiSA from CND due to it having a unique chemical formula (the same as their world leading l&p systems) and therefore far less of the highly sensatising ingredients commonly found in most gel formulas.

Hope that helps

 

[angel fingers]

i think it vital to build the stress area when using tips in conjunction with a soak off gel.

painting it on like polish may work when overlaying a natural nail for a longlasting finish but it doesnt offer enough strength to support the addition of a tip or sculpted free edge.

i use a thin base coat of clear. 2 colour coats and then a top layer of clear to seal and build the stress area. i use this technique sucessfully with lechat nobility soak off gels and bio sculpture.

 

[KristaBurgess]

Thanks guys. Im over whelmed by you giving your time to help me out. Sounds like I need a wider selection of tips so I can match my clients nail bed better. I will try this and if im still having problems then ill be back.

Im interested in trying out a harder gel for extensions... Im currently only Bio Sculpture Trained, do I need to be trained in the other products you've mentioned to buy them?

 

[Envy]

Again in my opinion you absolutely need training in the system you are intending to use - as a hard gel is very different in both application, finishing and removal I would strongly recommend training (although I know some companys do not enforce this)

CND BRiSA can be learnt in the UK from Sweet Squared. Give them a call and they will tell you everything you need to know!

 

[angel fingers]

i'd say you do. perhaps not to buy them, but certainly to have success with them.

the application for biosculpture is a fair bit more simple than stronger types of gel. bio has more a paint on application whereas stronger gels require a different type of application for success.