Quick question about colour dilution

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Skreeee

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Feb 14, 2020
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Currently in a situation where I have to mix Wella KP 55/0 with a 10/0 to make everything in between, which is not ideal but it's out of my control.
So if I was to make an 8 I would likely mix 2 parts 10/0 to one part 55/0. The thing that truly concerns me about diluting this much is the undertone colour of that level 5 is going to be red orange, and diluted is only going to become orange. I feel like even if I compensate with something a little blue the undertone still wont be gold, and the over all colour would be darker. I can compensate with a little more 10, but Im still concerned im not going to be happy with the outcome.
Am I overthinking this? Will my colours be orange? How does this make you feel?
Its stressing me out.
 
What?? I’m not surprised it’s stressing you out.
Please tell me that clients aren’t being charged for this ridiculous situation?
That’s just so unprofessional and it’s unworkable too.

When mixing colours on different levels, you can’t go up or down more than one level from your target because as you say, your colour pigment will be wrong.

As a very rough guide, here’s how much colour pigment for each level. The colour in brackets is the primary undertone.

Level - Colour Pigment
10 - 3-4 units of pigment. (Yellow)
9 - 8 units of pigment
8 - 10 units of pigment.
7 - 15 units of pigment
6 - 25 units of pigment. (Orange)
5 - 40 units of pigment
4 - 75 units of pigment. (Red)
3 - 100 units of pigment. (Brown)
2 - 125 units of pigment
1 - 150 units of pigment
 
thanks so much for confirming my feelings, my boss is a "mastercolorartist" and is pretty much gas lighting, like I have 10 years of experience but shes making me feel like I'm crazy. I'm pretty much preparing to turn away my clients because of this foolishness, but I had to make sure I wasnt overreacting.
 

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